BluDestiny

Here are some pics of a 15x7 zero offset wheel on an s30

You might actually be better off trying to zero the offset, so 38mm = 1.5inch spacer/adapter. They would look much better and fit fine. That stock +10 doesn't really mean much since you can tuck it much more under the fender, and those wheels were thin, 6" I believe.

Something is definitely wrong in the first picture. It should be well seated with the bolt sticking out like the second picture.

Well I cut the outer shell and they weren't as loose as you say. I had to pull on them to get them out. Maybe the inner metal busing will take up the slack, since I remember having to hit that in with a mallet.

You can use the stock rods for that hp. Also you only need forged pistons of you're going to be revving high. I've seen 350hp with the stock pistons, but at 5500-6000 rpm. If you really want forged, Rosa makes some really good ones, and I believe ITM is what a lot of people use. You're gonna need a lot of boost also so go with a good ems. If you don't feel comfortable tuning yourself go talk to a tuning shop an ask what they recommend. If you want to tune yourself go with megasquirt.

I'll keep that in mind and try it when I swap a 5 speed into my 240sx. Where did you buy it?

Search zilvia.net. They sell them all day long on there for like $50-100. Ask in the threads of people parting out their car.

That's pretty awesome. Get her running. I've never know that thing about the mounts. Mostly because I leave them on the block. And as for the tranny, you live you learn. Its not that bad to fill it using one of those gallon hand pumps, its like a giant bottle of liquid soap.

Yeah I remeber them being the same thick kind. If not just bring the exhaust piece to a muffler shop and have them drill out your old one and weld in the proper bung.

If you have the funds get an aftermarket speedo and tach. I've never used my speedo in my Z's anyway since I've never had stock size tires or even the stock diff. I use a gps strictly to read my speed.

I adequately greased the rack with gobs of grease. like a nice thick layer. As for the balljoints I filled them till they overflowed then wiped off the excess. I added zerk fittings to my control arm joints and did the same thing, grease till overflow, move it a little then grease more and wipe off extra.

Yeah its defiantly the oil sending unit. Here is a picture to confirm.

Looks like he just put a fiberglass cover over the regular bumper.

I've heard of people using them, but I do not know the specs. Most people tend to use tokico or eibach.

L28ET with an intercooler would probably add some weight to the L24 (maybe 30-40lbs) so maybe not the 120lbs I stated but a fair amount. Tranny is almost negligible since I'm going to to use a KA tranny and it has almost no weight difference to the tranny in my ZX.

Love these vids

That guy was totally reckless. Cool, but not smart on his part.

Yeah I'd rather be able to see at night.

Exterior looks good, interior looks meh. How's the engine? And I hope it wasn't a straight trade for your civic. You may have gotten screwed depending on the condition of your civic.

speedhunters car of the year was using 15x9 front and 15x10 rear, stretched tires and a lot of suspension mods. http://www.speedhunters.com/2012/05/the-peoples-choice-sunnys-240z/

Yeah I was talking to JohnC about the rear windshield. He was saying most coatings will last about a year or 2 in good conditions. If I had a garage I'd probably do it. As for an engine swap, I could save more weight than all those things combined if I switched to an SR20 on boost. Which may or may not be the goal later on. depends how I like my L28 when I boost it.

Why do you want to bolt it? To save money?

Like dan said it really depends on what else. If it has all stock components (clutch, flywheel, turbo) with just the megasquirt it is not worth it ( in my opinion). If it has some headwork, a lightweight flywheel, upgraded clutch, Ported intake that has been shaved, ported turbo manifold, new turbo, bigger injectors etc... then it is worth it. So get a detailed list of everything that comes with the swap and then we can tell you if it's worth it or not.

So you have a harness bar, but no mounting location on it. You want to wrap it around the harness bar and then bolt it down somewhere in the trunk? Why can't you just buy these: http://www.schrothracing.com/store/Competition/hardware/double-shoulder and then attach it.

Just cause the relays click doesn't necessarily mean The power is getting through. Once you get the multimeter check for power to the relay, and away from it. You could even use a noid light for this since you're just looking for power and not how much.