BluDestiny

I hated cleaning up that seam crap. Looking good though. Just finish removing the rest of the tar crap, and sanding down the interior.

Do you mean just the long block? or a full motor?

Get in contact with zforce. He was the one who was making them a long time ago, and might have some designs he might want to give up etc. His website is http://zforceproductions.com/

How many miles are on the engine? Pretty much everything you need probably has an aftermarket part, so that's kinda good if you want to do upgrades. First thing's first, take off the heads and see how bad its messed up inside. Pray you don't need a ridiculous amount of machine work.

I have 16x10 diamond racing rims on my s130, I run a 265/45/16 Khumo Ecsta XS tire. Only tire I could find to fit i that wasn't a track tire and was DOT legal.

Pull off the front cover and put on some rtv on the trouble spots.

I think he means 3.1. I think. And the ZX chassis is way more suitable to hold high hp than the s30 chassis. You don't need a cage, but heck Might as well. Also you're tranny choice isn't just limited to that. You could throw in a z32 tranny. All you need is an adapter plate, and it is capable of holding 500+ hp/torque easy.

it completely depends on area and demand. I managed to trade my long block and 5 speed tranny for a complete body kit in decent shape and $100. I consider that good since it was just taking up space.

http://technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=385

Did you check the Dizzy? Before when I used to wash my car, it would run like crap right after a wash, Turned out my dizzy cap was letting water in. This happened on my 260z with the louvered hood.

You can even skip the porting. I know one member here made a tad over 400hp on a stock block. You can do a bare bones stock swap for under $1k easily. The rest of your budget can go to intercooling, ECU, rail and injectors etc... And if you want to use a holset I got an H1C that I'm trying to get rid of...

When I bought my "new" ZX the guy had never transferred it in his name. The original owners signature was on the title, so it was like I was buying it from the original owner. Thank god the guy I bought it from kept it in non-op. Another note, when my brother finally got around to registering his car, the date on the title was like from 6 months old and he had to pay a late fee of $30 on top of registration fee's.

My 260z had the same problem. I put in an aftermarket relay and it works everytime, starts like a champ.

for the info on the heads: http://datsunzgarage.com/heads/index.htm to calculate comp ratio: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/calcs/engine%20builder/index.html If you really want to know, bring it to a machine shop and have them check the CC size. You could have a stock head, or it could have been swapped/machined/modified years ago.

I have an intercooler, Mishimoto G line, Black. NEw in box. $150 shipped to you. Also a brand new fuel rail for $150. 11mm with barbed fittings.

ugh need to do more work on my new zx shell. Its been sitting on jackstands for like 3 weeks now. All suspension components are currently off being sand blasted and powdercoated. What are the spring rates of the ground controls? and the HA's? I was going to do that, but when I read that the tokico illuminas are only good to like 250lbs or 4.5kg( or they work better at that rate) I thought it would feel weird with "soft" springs up front and stiff(7kg) springs out back. Do you feel a difference?

Buy a momo hub from MSA( it fits all s30s and s130s), then attach an NRG slim quick release( it should have the 6 bolt mom hub pattern). It will stick a little closer to you than a stock steering wheel, but that wasn't a problem for me. I don't know for sure if the 240sx one will work, but if it does, buy a "short" hub to attach the "slim" quick release. That should be about stock distance.

IT would be like the front of the modern motorsports kit, and like the TTT piece since it has an area to olt the shortnose to, but not the same kind of thing front for the s130/z31 subframe. The thing with s30's is that they don't have a crossmember like the s130 and z31. The way the shortnose mounts to the s13 chassis is underneath the rear crossmember, not on top like on our subframe. Here you can see it at the front, the crossmember goes over it, and it has 4 bolts for the rear mounting point Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I was toying around with the idea that I could design some type of cradle to hold he shortnose r200 in it's proper place. It would have to be fastened to the rear subframe on a zx, and also be able to cradle the diff. There are much more things I need to consider( the rear mounting point, being able to swap covers, axles, etc) But if you could buy a cradle to basically bolt in a shortnose r200, which are plentiful and have so many options and aftermarket goodies, would you? I also need to consider a custom driveshaft, possibly having to make axels or at least adapters to make them bolt up. Most of the shortnose r200 threads I've seen involve taking the guts out and putting them in a longnose carrier. Again this was just a thought I had when me and my friend were going over stuff

you just bumped an 8 year old thread.

It should rev all the way.

What year Z are we talking about?

So many have been successful with s13 coilovers. So you know they fit. s14 coilovers are about 6 inches longer. You would need to put the sleeve that much more in to compensate, which I don't think it can do, and it would be the same as if you ran s13 coilovers with the sleeve out that much (why would you do that). You want s13 rear coilovers, you can set them high enough to have a 3 in wheel gap or low enough to put your frame rails on the floor(don't do that though). My rear coilovers were 6kg/mm and it hardly bottomed out.

s13/s14 front shocks are the same length, The rears for the s14 are longer. I was using s13 rear coilovers and had no problems with clearance.

hahahahah. only the germans