NewZed

If your cooling system is properly filled, how can it accept two quarts more of oil? Have you drained a quart or more of oil from the overflow bottle? Just trying to help you with some details. If you just have a trace of oil in the coolant, and you're losing quarts from the engine, why are there not quarts of oil in the cooling system? Where did it go? You might just be running more oil through the combustion chambers. Worn rings maybe. You'll still be removing the head, among other things, but might be better prepared to fix it.

Probably depends on how you use the 500+ HP. Drifting? The viscous diffs don't seem to last long. Drag-racing? Probably depends on how well the car is set up. Autocross/road-racing? Some people say the viscous diff isn't smooth, just due to the way it works. Not your question but might be relevant. And the 180, 200, and 230 numbers are just the size of the ring gear, which is relevant to ultimate load-bearing capacity but might not be the most important factor in-use. Then there's the size of the external case, which you're talking about here, but may not be relevant. Haven't seen any broken differential housings reported in the R series. Don't forget the number of pinon shafts in the diff itself. Two versus four. They affect durability. Don't overlook the mounting problems with the short nose either. They can exacerbate the half-shaft problems. Misalignment of the shafts under load, from the diff moving, will find the weak spot in a drive shaft. Read through Sunny Z's thread about the path the to the 8.8" Ford diff. He's your role model. He's already done 3/4 of what you're worried about. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95937-78-datsun-280z-53-build/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109324-ford-88-irs-conversion/

Metric, US/short, or Imperial/British/long? And, of course, you're talking fractional measurements, like .00003 tons. There are better units of measure out there. Losing not loosing. Unless it's spraying around the engine bay.

Carb to manifold adapters are common. Might be easier and just as effective as building a new manifold. Identify a common carburetor that's appropriate for the engine and build an adapter to your current manifold, or a stock 240Z manifold. What is a "Customs mexican madera" manifold?

The drums are probably worth something to someone. $20 each? I have my own spare set. Pre-77 wheel cylinders are about $50 at the parts stores. Calipers are good for cores. Rotors - depends on condition. Hawk pads - pro-rate to wear. Your thread title can't be much more uninteresting. Probably very few people even looked at it.

Model dependent.

Found some good pictures of the angled back 240Z R180 half-shafts, and the perpendicular 280Z R200 shafts. A backward 280Z mustache bar would push the R200 forward. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/R200.htm

Just check the simple reasons for excess fuel first. Check the vacuum hose to the FPR for raw fuel (blown diaphragm). Excess fuel pressure (the stock FPR is 36.3 psi). Leaking injector. Etc. ECU's tend to short the injector circuit open and flood the engine. Could be the ECU. Is the description below with the ECU unplugged? That would be odd since there should be no injector pulses. Holding the vane closed leans the mixture but also chokes air flow. It should also kill power to the fuel pump since the fuel pump contact will open with the vane closed (as the factory set things up - yours might be modified). You might spend some time in the Engine Fuel chapter looking at how fuel is supplied through the injectors, what the ECU uses to richen the base pulse, what the AFM does, etc. " I had my brother in law hold the wiper on the AFM clockwise, leaning out the mixture, and the car started and stayed running as long as he held it, once he let go, it would immediately run so rich, it floods out. "

19 lb injectors are over-spec. on flow. Mid-40's pressure is over-spec (way) on pressure. You should be running way rich from the beginning. What else did you forget to mention? Are you even using the stock ECU? Has the AFM been "adjusted" to compensate for the extra fuel the out-of-spec. conditions cause? Maybe the cog spring came loose and the vane is free to move.

Must be this car? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112393-datsun-260z-turbo-s15-6-speed-technotoytuning/page-12?do=findComment&comment=1159965 Turbo L6?

No torque-HP data plot cross at 5250 RPM? Those curves seem really smooth and oddly shaped also.

Because turning the AFM vane by hand fixed the problem, whatever it is, doesn't mean that the AFM is the cause of the problem. The old problem may not be related to the new problem. I would troubleshoot more. Could be a simple holed FPR diaphragm.

johnc measured some half-shafts and posted on them a while ago. Here's an excerpt from the Beta Motor Sports article he wrote. I have a free yoke and if I add it's length (1.442" from flange surface to bearing cup hole) to his numbers, I get those shown. He also got a difference of 7/8" side-to-side although his arms were at 7.5 degrees. I think that you got your driver-passenger backward. Driver: 12 .375" + (2*1.442) = 15.259 = 15 1/4" Passenger: 13.25 + (2*1.442) = 16.134 = 16 1/8" "In a R200 installtion, with the lower control arms about 7.5 degrees from parallel to the ground, the driver's side halfshaft's length is 12 3/8" while the passenger side halfshaft's length is 13 1/4". " And, for an R200, the halfshafts should be essentially perpendicular to the hub, or parallel to each other. It's the early 240Z with an R180 that has the diff mounted forward, and the shafts angled back Just reference points. I've wanted to work out the flange-to-flange distance when in the car anyway. More numbers to work with.

Did you look in the little hole for fuel? http://documents.holley.com/199r8108-2rev4.pdf https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/classic_holley/parts/0-8007

BMW's using it in their Safety car. It must be safer. http://m-power.com/_open/s/varlink2.jsp?id=3301&lang=en

So the detail of what you're wondering about is if a 90.5 mm diameter fire ring will seal on an 83 mm bore. I would guess that it would if the sealing surfaces are flat and solid. I don't have the experience to say but I think that's the heart of the question. Kameari only offers 87 and 90.5 options anyway (maybe. Their web site shows 86 in one place and 87 in another) . You're 1.75 mm farther away with the 90.5 than with the 87. The dead space can be a bother but I think it will fill up with carbon quickly. Again, just a guess. http://www.kameariusa.com/l6-metal-headgasket/

Part number? Link?

Never mind, mistake. Erased previous comment. Might just be poor quality on the aftermarket FPR. It might still wear in though, with time. Probably best though, If you confirm that it's the 280ZX FPR, to take it back and exchange it. They're not supposed to leak down.

You could block the return line and test that way, or block a port on the 76 FPR and put it back on. Or you could just use it for a while and see if the new FPR settles in. Might have some surface rust inside, if "new" means "new old stock". I'd drive it for a while and see what happens. Won't hurt anything. Might be aggravating. If it's leaking at an injector you'll probably notice it's very rich on starting. Might even foul a plug.

Not normal for a factory FPR. Did you switch FPR's or use the same one? It would only take a small piece of rubber or teflon tape to hold the seat open in the FPR. Some old FPR's will occasionally lose pressure but hold most of the time or vice-versa. It looks like maybe you only checked once before and once after. You don't give much detail. Regardless, it will only affect starting the engine quickly.

Did you try rotating the wheels back to where they started? Did you rotate the wheels or did a shop? Going back to square one would tell if it's the wheels or the front end parts, or if something got damaged. Another thing people do is to put on a different set of wheels. If you have them available. A couple of spare tires on the front end might be informative. Might be too late, since you've already torn things apart, but if you end up in the same dilemma in the future, worth a thought.

He's probably past this already and trying to figure out how to get the gear back on, because the chain seems too tight.

Grab the gear and stick it on, with the camshaft dowel in the gear hole. Turn the gear and the shaft until the notch and groove line up. Remove the gear. Install the head. Don't make it complicated. The riskiest part is letting the head slip off of whatever you're working on and landing on a valve head. Let your eyes tell you if it's right. If there's a valve sticking out and about to go in to a hole with the piston at the top, that's wrong. If you need leverage on the head because it's free, take a piece of steel or wood and drill a hole or two in it. Bolt it to the bottom of the head as a handle. If you can't move the gear, put the bolt in and use a wrench on the bolt. But you'll have to shock the bolt head loose to remove since it will have tightened and will want to turn the shaft when you try to get it back out. A dead blow hammer, hammer, sledge, piece of 2x4, tapped on the wrench handle should do it. Go slow and look at how the parts fit together.

There's a notch and a groove. Picture in the manual. The factory one. EM.

How to tell that it's at TDC or how to turn the camshaft? You can use a wrench on the flat sections of the cam shaft, or some pliers. You can just hold the sprocket up to where it would go and check orientation of the sprocket notch. You can also measure how far the valves stick from the bottom of the head and compare to the holes they go in.