NewZed

Plug all of the words below in to Google. The site's search engine is weak and won't find what you need. site:hybridz.org diff mount ron tyler

Try to get a good picture down the holes that don't have a good picture. It's the stuff inside that matters.

How about during assembly? Dry rings and bore?

This might get you to the CAS wiring. MS uses the 120 degree signal, so by default, Not Used is the 1 degree. If you can see any other colors. http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_280zx_turbo.htm Here's another HEI wiring drawing. Don't forget to ground the mounting bosses. The 4-pin is actually a "5"-pin. http://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx-s130-forums-77/1983-280zx-turbo-electronic-issues-wont-start-new-coil-will-crank-37904/

Sorry, my CAS link isn't really that helpful. People have posted the pinout for the CAS plug here and there, which is what you need. Somebody should have a link. On the EFI relay, Nissan changed them over the years. The picture you show is the old 75-77 relay. You need a ZX EFI relay, which will have either 5 or 6 pins. Or just two simple relays, in series. . Sell the one you have for good money, They're expensive. That is a drawing of the HEI module. which is what the zcar link is about,but it's the wrong application. You would wire it to Pin 5 from the ECU as described in the zcar link. EXCEPT, I see that the links to the drawings are broken. Another fail, zcar.com doesn't store many images anymore. Here's another link, but you need an account to see the pictures. http://www.zdriver.com/forum/240z-280zxt-s30-s130-tech-tips-275/turbo-ignitor-swap-upgrade-chevy-hei-27569/ Basically, the ignitor / power transistor / or HEI module is just a switch controlled by the ECU. I'm just posting food for thought. There are several ways to get those jobs done. This thread has some good stuff in it - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112637-help-for-stock-l28et-swap-into-a-77-280z/

Here's a thread with a post from a guy who knows, about the CAS - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111877-north-idaho-eastern-washington-280z-l28et-wiring-gurus-or-anyone-willing-to-help-a-knucklehead-out/?do=findComment&comment=1052558 The EFI relay looks pretty straightforward, everything is shown in the diagram. How much more could be added? The ECCS you're using doesn't require a ballast resistor for coil control. It does require a power transistor though (aka ignitor). You can get a stock replacement or wire in a later model transistor, or use a GM HEI module. And you might want to check the specs. on that coil also to make sure that they're close to the stock 1981 coil. coil specs. are in the FSM chapter, EFEC I believe. http://z31performance.com/showthread.php?17796-Upgrade-to-PRW-2-Ign-Control-Module-(Power-Transistor-Unit)/page2&s=d7638dea5f1caa1963063ada41937f6c http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/285085-hei-ignition-control-module-swap-info-turbos-only.html

Sorry, I gave all of the clues in my last post. How to test a 280Z fuel pump is described all over the internet. Use a meter to test for power, and sound, pressure or fuel flow to see if it spins. OK here's one method - push the AFM vane or weight.

The fuel pump only gets power when the key is at Start or the AFM vane is off its seat (fuel pump relay contact switch closed). On an unmodified 1977 280Z. Most people can't hear the pump when the starter is engaged so they disconnect the starter solenoid to quiet things down.

That's your throttle dash pot. No vacuum line there.

This statement is the main problem with your logic. You didn't "stomp the gas" for the first 2 months?

Sorry, still not clear. The engine doesn't want to "turn on" or the fuel pump? What did you test last weekend? You said you've never seen the car run, but you said it started with starting fluid. That's a contradiction. How can you say that it "never does that" if you've never seen the car run? Overall, it's hard to tell what you're trying to describe. Read what you wrote and see if it makes sense. Could be that the fuel pump you replaced was bad due to rust. Rust which is still in the tank, killing the new pump.

So the fuel pump "works", meaning you heard ti spin? Have you seen fuel flowing, or measured pressure? Did the engine run a few days ago? Are you trying to resurrect a car that's been sitting for 26 years, that you've never heard run? The starter fluid is a good clue, You have spark. Year of car would be helpful.

The pins have been known to come out without a puller. Often, they can even be re-used. And often, they're pulled when they don't need to be pulled.

Looks like they are a low-profile supplier to Nissan, if the attached reference is correct. There's not a lot out there about them in English. If a person really wanted to take care with their new camshaft, the Paraut brand might be worth the extra money over ITM. Nissan used to chrome plate the early rocker arms but changed in 1969. Attached a Technical Bulletin copy. Seems like maybe they've always been a little bit problematic. Japanese Atsugi page: http://ejje.weblio.jp/content/ATSUGI+MOTOR+PARTS+Co.,Ltd.

So, OEM supplier to Nissan? Atsugi. These would be "Nissan" rocker arms?

And another from a reputable source. Reconditioned plus. http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=35&Itemid=3

More rocker arm stuff. MSA's seem like they might be Paraut brand. Which seems to be a more expensive option, maybe of higher quality than the ITM's. Guessing only by the shiny mark in the pictures, and the price. http://www.redlinemotive.com/store/replacement/wizard.asp?year=1978&make=NI&model=280-Z-001&category=A&part=Rocker+Arm http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2030 http://www.elautoparts.com/item.wws?sku=A4040-51981&itempk=86615&mfr=Paraut&weight=0.20

If you're going to leave the valve cover breather open to atmosphere, you don't want to connect the crankcase hose to the intake. The valve/rocker arm cover cavity is connected to the crankcase. The Pallnet rail will just have an extra port to supply fuel to the CSV. lol

I just came across this. Might be useful. http://www.datsunstore.com/front-7074-used-p-1861.html

Been on for a little while and no problems at all. Just one data point, for reference.

Don't you really need just a head? Here's a recent thread on the same. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/116474-ld28-intake-input/

Metal. I would make one of those spinning wheels, like on Wheel of Fortune or The Price is Right, and fill the slots with random things like fuel pump , fuel filter, PCM, grounds, carpet stuck under the gas pedal, etc. Spin and go. Spin, spin, spin...

You put 5 quarts in, on a 4 3/4 quart spec. And finding the source of "smoke" is a very basic skill for a competent mechanic. Check those hose clamps.

How long did the smoke last? What did it smell like? If you went out and drove it now would it do the same? How can you see smoke from the exhaust manifold if you're driving and the hood is closed? By "exhaust manifold" do you really mean exhaust pipe (the hole in the back)? Did you do any other work besides the fuel pump and oil change? You're either making something big out of not much, or you broke something when you were working on it.

This method just does not work with any of the EFI systems. You have to know the numbers. If you're running stock engine management you should have OBD and a code. You should learn how to diagnose your EMS before things get way out of hand. Stomping the gas to fix the problem doesn't work. You're on a bad path.