NewZed

You should re-think what's happening and write a new description. Most of your post doesn't make sense. Read it back to yourself and you'll see.

The link in Post #10 seems to work fine. Goes directly to a picture.

The process of elimination should work for you. There's only two left, right, and one of those is supply. Or you can go back the the tank and blow air through the lines connected to the ports shown in the Fuel and Exhaust (FE) chapter (not the Engine Fuel System chapter). Always good to confirm anyway. But it looks like the 1973 internet resources don't have that chapter. Could be why you missed it. So 1972 or 1974 will have to do. Here's a good resource for those- http://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals

Your original guesses were correct. Liquid should not be returned to the reservoir. You have the wrong line connected. There is a specific port for returning fuel to the tank. Labeled drawings are in every FSM, in the Fuel and Exhaust chapters. Look at the pictures and you'll probably be able to figure it out.

Attach links to the threads you've read so people don't waste time referring you to them. There was a very good one recently on this exact topic.

Just to help you with your original question, I'll rephrase it - How many of you would pay $350 for a set of brackets that will let you use Z32 calipers and rotors, front and back, on your S30's? You'll need to source the other parts yourself. So add in the cost of the calipers, rotors, pads, and any assorted hardware to make it work, and you have the cost of the "kit". It's interesting to see how new products are developed. Best not to be too sensitive to criticism/questions, especially when it's just one of many ideas out there on the interweb.

Because there's no market for them. Nobody wants them. That's how business works. Make a set and show the value. You said they're worth $300 to you, and you have a car to put them on.

Looks like one's a dog collar and the other a timing belt. Pretty sure that I've read of people using a common nylon cargo hold-down strap. Get the kind with the ratcheting mechanism and you could have a nice tight strap, maybe even avoid the clunking problem.

So the price is down to $300 now, from $300-400. 300/4 = $75 per bracket. You'd probably generate more interest and know more about your costs if you made a set and showed how well they work. It's all bench-racing until then, so BS'ing about cost and value doesn't seem unreasonable. Are Z32 brakes better than what Silvermine offers? http://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/brake-upgrades

Your imagination and fear that you broke something come to mind. Or maybe a chunk of carbon broke loose and fouled a spark plug. You could give it a good lookover, measuring lash, looking at plugs, measuring cylinder pressures, etc. That's one way to get real information about the state of the engine.

Watch the fluid level in the reservoirs to see if any leaves when someone pushes the pedal, and returns when the pedal is released. That will give you a clue about what's happening in the master cylinder. Your parking brake is mechanical, independent of the hydraulic system.

Australia - http://www.swmotorsport.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=1&products_id=727 $2,750 aussie dollars >>> $2392 US

That's a good point about the drive shaft angle. The design that people are copying is for a V8 swap and lowers the nose if used with the GM transmission mount. So it might have issues with the L6. Seems like somebody would seize the opportunity and tweak the design. If it's used as a snubber though, you keep the stock angle and stock mount, just avoiding the nose lift. So, no obvious solutions. They all have potential problems.

Why would you promote that over the RTZ style mount? The design is weaker -the diff still sits on the crossmember, the noise issue might be exaggerated but it's still more than the RTZ-style, plus the design flaw of stressing a very small area of the crossmember, possibly leading to fatigue cracking. Why take a chance? The OP's plans for the car would factor in. If he has a fairly noisy car maybe solid is easy. But if he has a quiet street cruiser the old diff howl could be a problem. If he's drag-racing, fatigue could be a problem. The RTZ-style just seems more logical.

The easiest way to get things right is to buy a clutch kit that contains the throwout bearing collar. The collar is matched to the height of the pressure plate. That's the key to avoiding problems.

Plug all of the words below in to Google. The site's search engine is weak and won't find what you need. site:hybridz.org diff mount ron tyler

Try to get a good picture down the holes that don't have a good picture. It's the stuff inside that matters.

How about during assembly? Dry rings and bore?

This might get you to the CAS wiring. MS uses the 120 degree signal, so by default, Not Used is the 1 degree. If you can see any other colors. http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_280zx_turbo.htm Here's another HEI wiring drawing. Don't forget to ground the mounting bosses. The 4-pin is actually a "5"-pin. http://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx-s130-forums-77/1983-280zx-turbo-electronic-issues-wont-start-new-coil-will-crank-37904/

Sorry, my CAS link isn't really that helpful. People have posted the pinout for the CAS plug here and there, which is what you need. Somebody should have a link. On the EFI relay, Nissan changed them over the years. The picture you show is the old 75-77 relay. You need a ZX EFI relay, which will have either 5 or 6 pins. Or just two simple relays, in series. . Sell the one you have for good money, They're expensive. That is a drawing of the HEI module. which is what the zcar link is about,but it's the wrong application. You would wire it to Pin 5 from the ECU as described in the zcar link. EXCEPT, I see that the links to the drawings are broken. Another fail, zcar.com doesn't store many images anymore. Here's another link, but you need an account to see the pictures. http://www.zdriver.com/forum/240z-280zxt-s30-s130-tech-tips-275/turbo-ignitor-swap-upgrade-chevy-hei-27569/ Basically, the ignitor / power transistor / or HEI module is just a switch controlled by the ECU. I'm just posting food for thought. There are several ways to get those jobs done. This thread has some good stuff in it - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112637-help-for-stock-l28et-swap-into-a-77-280z/

Here's a thread with a post from a guy who knows, about the CAS - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111877-north-idaho-eastern-washington-280z-l28et-wiring-gurus-or-anyone-willing-to-help-a-knucklehead-out/?do=findComment&comment=1052558 The EFI relay looks pretty straightforward, everything is shown in the diagram. How much more could be added? The ECCS you're using doesn't require a ballast resistor for coil control. It does require a power transistor though (aka ignitor). You can get a stock replacement or wire in a later model transistor, or use a GM HEI module. And you might want to check the specs. on that coil also to make sure that they're close to the stock 1981 coil. coil specs. are in the FSM chapter, EFEC I believe. http://z31performance.com/showthread.php?17796-Upgrade-to-PRW-2-Ign-Control-Module-(Power-Transistor-Unit)/page2&s=d7638dea5f1caa1963063ada41937f6c http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/285085-hei-ignition-control-module-swap-info-turbos-only.html

Sorry, I gave all of the clues in my last post. How to test a 280Z fuel pump is described all over the internet. Use a meter to test for power, and sound, pressure or fuel flow to see if it spins. OK here's one method - push the AFM vane or weight.

The fuel pump only gets power when the key is at Start or the AFM vane is off its seat (fuel pump relay contact switch closed). On an unmodified 1977 280Z. Most people can't hear the pump when the starter is engaged so they disconnect the starter solenoid to quiet things down.

That's your throttle dash pot. No vacuum line there.

This statement is the main problem with your logic. You didn't "stomp the gas" for the first 2 months?