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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. NewZed
    Could also be a binding half-shaft. Since it's not on the road, the shaft is probably popping out when you put the car on the ground? Best guess based on limited info.
  2. NewZed
    To Miles's point, also mentioned by RebekahsZ:
  3. NewZed
    No AC to work in? Here's another option then - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/115895-replacing-hvac-system-1976-280z/ Seems to put more heat everywhere, compared to stock.
  4. NewZed
    Here's another option. The one big weakness of the Z system is that it doesn't have the option to blow de-moisturized and reheated air across the windshield like more modern cars. If you have an AC compressor something like this might be an upgrade. It looks difficult though, considering the thread ended with no firm signs of success. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/88182-alternate-heater-ac-controls-in-a-280/?&pid=836998&do=findComment&comment=836998
  5. NewZed
    FSM...sqwawk....FSM...
  6. NewZed
    82 and 83 use the E12-92 ignition module which has a circuit to advance the timing using a thermal switch. You'd need to jump that or leave it open, I'm not sure which. Not a big deal but might need consideration. Don't forget to get the mounting plate also, Nissan changed them when they designed the ZX distributor. And you might look through the electrical chapters of the FSM's to see how the timing advance curves compare to your 240Z curves. They'll be different and will affect the way the engine performs. There's more to a distributor swap than just bolting it in and connecting wires. If you can't find a ZX distributor, you might consider a 260Z or 280Z distributor with a GM HEI module. How did the old one fail? Can't you fix it by changing the points? Edit - here's some stuff on the E12-92 module. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/56630-e12-92-retard-or-no-retard/
  7. NewZed
    Don't forget the diode. 240Z's can backfeed through the Lamp wire and keep the engine running when the key is turned off. This web site gives a fair description of the situation with the 240Z and 260Z's and how to fix it. Search it for the word "diode". http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/voltreg.htm Edit - actually, with the Painless harness it probably doesn't matter. I think that problem with the 240Z and 260Z is that the wire used for L in the conversion is also T'ed in to the coil power. Painless most likely considered that. You'll know when you try it.
  8. NewZed
    There's a lot of good stuff about rods in the Honsowetz "How to Modify.." book. Stock, sports-option, race-prep, oiling holes, rod bolts, etc.
  9. NewZed
    I thought the issue with rods was RPM, not power output. Inertia at the top of the stroke. So it would depend on how fast you intend to spin the crankshaft, mainly.
  10. NewZed
    3. I would bet an R200 that the car already has an R200. The blocks are all pretty similar. People run turbos on all of them. It's the pistons and head combinations that need to be planned. Since you're starting from scratch, you might as well put together the engine you want to get the power you want and start with aftermarket engine management. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50208-the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-you-need-for-350whp/ www.blackdragonauto.com apparently has 204Z bumpers. That's the most popular swap for the big bumpers.
  11. NewZed
    Sounds a whole lot like a bad battery cable connection. One of the big wire connections. Loose/dirty/corroded, the resistance from the current pulled to turn the starter motor heats up the connection and it opens. Cool down and the connection comes back. It's actually pretty common, it almost got me a year ago. If you have the bolt-on on cable ends, check those, also the typical post/connector interface. The clicking relay is probably coincidental to the power loss when the connection opens.
  12. NewZed
    1987 has self-diagnostics with trouble codes. Pretty easy and might hep. EFEC. http://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals
  13. NewZed
    Give some history on the car. It could be an old turd that's been sitting for 12 years, or a daily driver that ran perfectly until you started having problems. Vacuum leaks fit the second symptom. FPR or fuel pump leaking down, the first.
  14. NewZed
    http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=22:tranny-a-rear-diff-parts&catid=16:tranny-a-rear-diff-parts&Itemid=31
  15. NewZed
    Some of those look like Standard brand aftermarket injectors. If you don't know how old they are or what condition they're in you should probably get them checked or check them yourself. Fill some Coke bottles while they sit on top of the engine. You'll see how it sprays then.
  16. NewZed
    Does your camera have a close-up function? Can't really see in there. It does look odd, but it might just be designed for shooting stream instead of a cloud. You could have posted pictures of the other injectors for reference. Or a shot of the injector body since that's about the only way to tell the Z and Zx injectors apart, by color. Aftermarket has number/letter codes though, so those would tell something. Really, you haven't given much of a clue. Basically, a picture of a metal tube and some seals. The one that doesn't matter, #3, looks like a Standard brand FJ series, If it was NA for a 280Z it would be an FJ707T.
  17. NewZed
    So DIY got back to you and told you that you had the wrong injector setup? Narrow your thought process down from "exploding computer" to "overloaded injector control transistor" if you want to get back on the road. You'll need a soldering iron.
  18. NewZed
    I kind of jumped ahead and back and forth in the story but I got the impression that you did not have the spark plug properly grounded. That would be one reason for no spark when testing. Normally the ground strap of the plug grounds through the threads of the plug, which are in contact with the head. Yours are hanging in mid-air. When you hold them in your hands they are also ungrounded unless you are touching the block or the body. Even then, if your hands are dry and calloused, you'll get a poor ground. It's a bad idea anyway since they'll give a good shock. Set the plug on the valve cover with the threads making good contact with the metal. Or run a jumper wire fromthe ground strap to the body or block. Then look for spark.
  19. NewZed
    If you mean the thing I circled in red, that's a capacitor, aka condenser. They do go bad occasionally. I see no ceramic pieces. The miss on the condenser makes one wonder what you meant by ignition control module. The coil looks stock. Might be worthwhile to browse through the FSM, Engine Electrical, and make sure you're getting the names right, at least. There are some parts on the ZX type distributors that can break after many miles.
  20. NewZed
    1979 didn't have a ballast resistor. Not clear what you're really working with.
  21. NewZed
    Learn how the engine management works. Take some measurements. There is no easy path back to 100 mph speed runs. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/
  22. NewZed
    https://www.fairchildsemi.com/datasheets/TI/TIP42.pdf I took a quick look around the internet but couldn't find an MS board that looks like yours. It could be your injector driver/transistor, based on specs. and what injectors need. BUT, the white stuff might just be heat transfer paste. Not really a sign that it's no good. Did the guy just stick his nose down on the part and proclaim it as bad? It's easily replaced, if it is. Could also just be that the paste shorted the connections. Maybe. You should at least find out what kind of Megasquirt you have. There are several varieties.
  23. NewZed
    Sounds like your injector drivers might have failed open. Probably flooding the engine until the fuse blows. Or you have a short at the power supply to the injectors. Just guessing. You could disconnect the injectors from board to check for a short. The drivers themselves will take more work. Some random links... http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/megasquirt_injector_driver_troubleshooting.htm http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=51994
  24. NewZed
    Red/blue not on the diagram makes things difficult. I would check those switches at the transmission first. They have power and there's supposed to be a load on the other side that would prevent a short. If they were just tucked away somewhere they might be contacting the body.
  25. NewZed
    Kind of sounds like Kind of sounds like the ignition switch stopped working, and Start only gave On, with no starter action. So the PO messed around with the wiring to make it run. Added the push button to fix the no starter action problem, and maybe hot-wired the ignition relay. It shouldn't click when the battery cables are connected. That will drain the battery. Does the car turn off with the key or do you have to drop the clutch with the brakes on? The hot fusible links, with the T plug behavior, is probably a separate problem. Maybe a bad alternator or voltage regulator. You'll have to dig around and see what else has been messed with. There's probably more messed up than just the starting circuit. Look for extra loose wires T'ed or spliced in where they don't belong. The wiring diagram for the ignition switch circuit is pretty easy to understand.
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