NewZed

So do you want to lower the ass end or raise the front end?

You can dink around on the Dorman site getting the search format right and choosing the right numbers, to find some options. Other sites, like Summit Racing, tend to have explicit descriptions too, that will let you narrow a search. It takes a few iterations. Oreilly Auto is another site that has detailed part descriptions. I've found also, that using the the "site" term in Google will find many things that a company's own search engine won't find. I usually make one search to see the format, then just replace numbers with partial numbers, like 0.5 instead of 0.509, to narrow. Here's the Dorman page and an option. It could be narrowed further with a specific knurl diameter, the 610-409 part just happened to be on the first page. http://www.dormanproducts.com/gsearch.aspx?type=keyword&origin=keyword&q=wheel+stud+M12-1.50+Serrated+Wheel+Stud http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-32691-610-409.aspx?origin=keyword Edit - meant to add also, that the OReilly and Dorman sites both show the 350Z as a .5649" knurl. I used 2006 as the year. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DAG0/610378/02990.oap?year=2006&make=Nissan&model=350Z&vi=1433005&ck=Search_wheel+stud_02990_1433005_-1&keyword=wheel+stud&pt=02990&ppt=C0337 http://www.dormanproducts.com/gsearch.aspx?type=keyword&origin=keyword&q=610-378 And, sites like OReilly have a "Compatibility" page for each part that shows the cross-reference Tony D mentioned. Pretty handy.

Look for value. Receipts and proof that a pro rebuilt the head, versus some guy in his garage. New valve seals don't count as a rebuild. How many accessories and what shape are they in. An old worn out alternator isn't worth much. You can get a used engine form a wrecking yard for about $350. Is it worth $250 more for what you're going to get. Since you're in jail you should be looking for cops on the drive out.

Spend some time thinking about the "givens". Many of the popular mods are popular for irrational reasons. Some have been shown to be ineffective. Some of your old parts might be fine. On the future - if you're going with EFI over the 4-barrel carb, then the surge tank sytem, fuel cell, bugger fuel return lines, etc. make sense now. If not, maybe the stock system is fine for a carb.

For those with 280Z's - the rear strut assembly is too long, longer than the early S30's, to slip out from under the fender well without loosening the inner rear control arm bolts, unless you put a lot of pressure on it. The 240Z's do seem easier to get done. On the nut - you can stick a bar or long screwdriver between the three studs to get leverage, with the strut assembly out or dropped. It's shown that way in the FSM's. Or dill two holes in a piece of steel to set over two studs. Everyone's got their own little tricks and most depend on what tools you have available. Some let the stock springs fly when replacing with shorter springs, if they don't have a spring compressor..

Loosen the center strut rod nut before doing anything else. A socket wrench will work, no vises or impact wrenches required.

Posted Today, 01:03 PM Actually I'm running Windows 7 64 bit under the latest IE. Mine works. Pasted the above from Post #5. I have 32 bit Windows 7, with Chrome browser. Text will cut and paste, images won't. Maybe there's an image in the text you think you've cut. For quite a while I had all three of the main browsers installed. Each one had its own strengths. IE and Firefox bloated and slowed pretty rapidly over the last year though. Chrome works great. As far as privacy, it's pretty apparent now that there is none, no matter what browser you use. Pasted an image below just to be sure. edit - well I guess some images do paste. Better. Administrator Administrators 9177 posts LocationLa Habra, CA, USA Posted Today, 03:27 PM Then the issue is the latest IE. Like This ----- John Coffey, Fabricator at Benton Performance, LLC Quote MultiQuote Add As Video

That's a capacitor, AKA condenser. It knocks down electrical noise from the ignition system. If you have a decent meter you can test it. You can replace it with an alternator capacitor or your Nissan dealer probably has one. They're common to many cars. Just because you have fuel pressure that doesn't mean that the injectors are opening and delivering fuel to the engine. You can have spark and no injector opening, and get a no-start. Best to confirm no spark, using a tester or a spare spark plug. Also, the EFI system has its own power supply. You could have power to everything else, but none to the ECU and injectors. If your fuel system is in good order, it will hold pressure without the pump running. Carry a good meter and a spare spark plug in the car, and have a testing plan ready for next time it happens. There are a few key things that you can test within about 5 minutes, that will tell you more about what's really going on. In the meantime you could open and clean your power supply and ground wire connectors to the EFI system. Often overlooked since there's no reason to disconnect them. They're exposed and they get dirty and corroded.

R180 uses a bolt. R200 uses a circlip. Labeled drawings in the Prop and Diff chapter, with instructions.

Looks like you have everything running in to a cluster of an air-flow cross-road intersection. Doesn't really fit the concept shown in Post #6 (see the arrows, fresh air and blow-by gas?). Does it run any differently?

His rub on the inside CV. You're showing the outside. How close are yours on the inside?

Actually, the small area of the dip stick exposed to pressure probably isn't enough to lift it out. I made a funny. With the PCV hose connected to the J-pipe you'll be pressurizing the crankcase under boost. You could fab in a PCV valve to get back to factory specs. The AAR passes air across the throttle blade to let air past the throttle for higher idle speed. But, the air is still metered by the AFM. It's not clear if you left one of the three hoses from the T open or capped all of them. The FSM's cover a lot but it's pretty spread out over the pages and there are some weak areas. Like how the AAR is plumbed in the turbo/ECCS system (the pictures have no detail. But, in general, the crankcase and intake system need to be completely sealed from outside air. All air must enter through the AFM. No exhaust probably means no O2 sensor. So you're in open-loop all the time. With the N42 intake you've probably removed some of the vacuum control valves also. They have an effect. There's a lot of stuff needed to make the engine run right. I don't have a turbo car but I like to keep up with what they need, for future reference. Good luck. Pictures are from 1983, 1981 might be simpler.

The firing order you show is wrong. Anti (counter)-clockwise is right. When you get that corrected, consider that the fuel may be stale. Starting fluid is always a quick way to check for spark, firing order and timing. It lights up easily.

Is the dipstick still in its hole? Have you tried boost yet? .

There's always the Google. Probably available four and half years ago also.

You sound like a guy who's got stars in his eyes for high horsepower, The car sounds like someone's project that is not "done" and may not even be well-designed and executed. I wish I could find a GIF for Dirty Harry's "do you feel lucky" line. Shuddering at take-off is usually a clutch engagement problem. Maybe it's slipped a few too many times under all that power. Or the 1st gear ratio is too tall for the diff ratio. Lots of questions. Just buy it and start working on it. Who wants a car that's done anyway.

Is the wheel on the ground and weighted by the car? Looks like you have the wheel hanging. The rod might be at an angle. On the ground makes everything super-easy. Things are incredibly harder than would seem rational with the wheel hanging. .

Compare the new bushing diameter to the old rubber bushing diameter. there's no reason they shouldn't fit., I think that all S30's use the same T/C rods. Make sure also that you read up on urethane bushings and broken T/C rods too. Many people run 1/2 rubber, 1/2 urethane.

Tie rod bushing? What do you mean by "tie rod"? Maybe my memory or general knowledge is off, but I don't recall a tie rod bushing. Post a picture. Edit - just a guess, but maybe you're trying to use the mustache bar bushings in the tension/compression rod spot. They're both big and round. Also note that the T/C rod and its bushings are easiest to replace with the wheels and suspensions weighted. You can reach everything while laying beside the car. Almost impossible to get the bolts back in with the wheel hanging.

Google is full of "280Z firing order" posts and images. Probably easier to look at too, than the attached picture.

Do you have one Tokico shock - HZ3102, 3013, 3015, 3016 or 3038? I have the part, need one shock to fill a set. No gland nut necessary, just the shock, still pressurized and no signs of internal damage. Used is fine.

What, in numbers, is the timing set to, initial, and what does it do when you rev the engine? That will tell you a ton about your timing and distributor quality, more than the finger test of spring tension. After it starts do you move the timing back or do you leave it at maximum advance (whatever that is)? What, exactly, non-essential components did you remove? When you talk about revving, is this while driving, or in neutral? What does "hesitation" mean, if you're in neutral? Odds are high that you have a vacuum leak and something out of adjustment.

They got me. Apparently, there is actually a pump that pressurizes the tank. so weird that I didn't even search first. No wonder cars aren't getting lighter. I think I'll avoid all cars post-1995. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f802d818d Edit - although, it doesn't appear the the GMC Sierra uses one. So they were almost right.

Saw this column this morning and thought it looked like BS. Maybe the original Click and Clack have sold their identities or the whole thing is just a show. MIT graduates? The implication is that there's a pump that pressurizes the fuel tank, It would have to be an air pump that pumps outside air in to the tank. Sounds like total nonsense. http://blog.nwautos.com/2014/05/randomly_running_truck_is_confusing_owner.html?prmid=obnetwork

Looks like you're thinking abut buying this car so don't know much about how it was put together. What does the builder say about these issues? Could be something as simple as weak motor and/or transmission mounts. Sounds like a poor job on the swap. Something is loose or mis-aligned or out of balance. Stuttering (shaking?) on deceleration is a sign, since it has nothing to do with peak horsepower. Forgot to say - this isn't a Ford issue, it's more of a general drivetrain or swap issue. You might repost in a different forum to get more looks.