NewZed

Surfing around looking at clutch disc images and came across a new ACT offering. I don't know if they're "jumping the shark", joking or just running out of ideas but it's fun to look at. Near the bottom of the page. If it's real they shouldn't have called it Ninja, that's just bad marketing. http://www.advancedclutch.com/blog/category/new-products/

You're not getting the point. By now you should realize that what you're calling points aren't points. My efforts have been pointless. Those six frosty things in your picture are not points. If you want to learn a little automotive history, get on Google Images and type in "ignition points". Then look at pictures. It's the conductive paths to ground or other electrodes from dirt and arcing that cause problems in the cap. Best to get a new one.

It may be that it's okay for a really good builder to machine individual custom shims for each tower. If the guy you're talking to is the guy doing the work and stands behind it then why not. But if he's giving advice that other builders can't follow, there's a problem. You may also be getting advice about old engines from a guy that has only worked on modern ones.

Meaning is in the mind of the person thinking. You're overlooking also, that past work may be available that could now be shared via the internet. Us poor folk have to collect our scraps of power where we can so knowing that the F54/P79 design can create more or less power than the N42/N42 or N47 would be a helpful starting point. Plus it's always helpful to know what the engineers achieved with their changes. It just makes a person smarter. Or at least gives that feeling.

1974 was the year that Nissan introduced electronic ignition to the US market Z cars. No more points. Looks like someone just swapped L24 engine parts in but kept the better 260Z electronic ignition with its distributor. Look under the passenger dash by the fuse box and you'll probably see a neat looking aluminum box with cooling fins on it.

I'm still hoping that someone will show a one-to-one dyno comparison of the two stock engines, just for the record. Just to know, even though it's most likely just a few HP or lbs-ft either way.

The first part of this statement has has not been confirmed.

Post a picture of the points to show what shape they're in.

I don't know the correct answer. Using different shims under each tower doesn't match anything I've heard of though. I was referring to Tom Monroe's "How to Rebuild" book and Honsowetz's "How to Modify" book. They both describe milling top and bottom, and using shims to restore the camshaft to crankshaft distance. I've never seen a procedure for using different thickness shims, certainly not in the FSM. How would that even be done? The FSM says to replace the head if it's warped. Who is this experienced professional engine builder?

The shims or the top side resurface? The shims restore the height, but after the top surface is milled. The shims are all the same thickness. Shims plus top side resurface, not either/or. No pro though.

Just for the sake of making things interesting, describe the Mikunis, where you got them, what they came from and condition. Post pictures. Do some work to figure out what cam and headers you have. More pictures. And give a link to the TEP parts you're buying. Many people that might have an answer would see this as someone asking how to tie their shoes, but can't tell if the shoes are old dirty sneakers, or a new pair of super-cool shoes. Your question is not even 101 level, you have to make the thread worth looking at and replying to.

Spell out the words of the acronym - CHTS. C = cylinder, H = head, ...

Monroe says that cracks between the valve seats is the end of the head. Page 90, How to Modify... The thing about cracks is that they like to keep growing until there's no material left to stop them.

Where's the smoking tires picture?

I think that axle removal is required for that bracket.

A few RPM can have a big effect. http://reconitelectric.blog.com/files/2012/03/alternator_power_curve.jpg

If you search around you'll find that some of the pros say they're not even necessary. Clamping force is key. The ring gear should never slip at all, so the bushings/shims/space fillers should never feel a thing.

There's a mechanical hook that pulls the throttle mechanism open to idle up when the AC compressor is activated. It's on top of the intake manifold and obvious. It needs adjustment. Probably described in the AC chapter.

It's a press fit anyway so width doesn't really matter. The sealing surfaces are the outer and inner circumferences. Make sure the inner seal is riding on smooth steel, lubricate the inner and outer contact surfaces and press it in til it's flush. Make sure it's firmly set in place when you're done. I've only done a couple, others might have some tricks to make it easier and guarantee a good seal. The skinnier seal will probably be more prone to get cocked when installing so a tool, like a piece of big PVC pipe might help in driving it in square.

What's the purpose of the hoses? They cost almost 2/3 what the radiator itself does.

At least - remove the filler cap and look at a cam lobe. Why turn the key and hope when you can know first? If the cam lobes are rusty, there's probably rust elsewhere. As for cheapness and availability, many people here are remembering from their 5 to 10 to 20 years of experience. But these engines are getting melted down in the wrecking yards at a pretty constant rate. Here in Oregon, and across the country, Schnitzer Steel has bought many wrecking yards (converting them to Pick-n-Pull brand) for steel supply and they do not distinguish between a classic and a piece of junk. They're all just an inventory number, to sit in the yard for a month or two then get crushed. Don't assume that you'll pick up a good running for cheap.

NewZed, on 10 Feb 2014 - 12:41 PM, said: But it's not sent. Just to split the hair even finer...

2014 - 1986 = 28 years. That is much longer than most "oil the cylinders and go" cars have sat. If the gas is gone, the residue is probably tarred up in all of the fuel system components. I would pop the valve cover and see how the cam looks, take the plugs out and make sure no cylinders are full of water, drain the oil and look for water, check the distributor cap, drain the fuel system and flush new gas through the lines, etc. Depending on the weather and where it was stored, water can build up in unexpected places. Check the fuel hoses also, my old EFI hoses split under the hose clamps and started squirting fuel after a few months of driving on a car that had sat for a while. You might have some work ahead of you.

How does it not fit? Inside or outside diameter. You don't need to go to a specialty shop for the seal. Your local auto parts store or RockAuto.com will have it. Cheaper too.

Just curious, but doesn't it look like #1 had a useless top ring? The brown is deeper, compared to the others.