NewZed

I got curious and looked around. You might have ordered half-shaft u-joints. Good old atlanticz.ca has a big old list of both. Can't say if it's correct but the site is generally a good starting point. The Moog number is a Falcon number in the list. Your GMB number shows as half-shaft. It also has dimensions at the bottom. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ujoint/index.html

Don't forget the option of using an early 1970 240Z driveshaft. If you can find one. If you're using an early Z driveshaft with replaceable u-joints, why is it so hard to find u-joints? They seem to be a stock item. The ones that are hard to find are the ones to replace the staked-in, not-meant-to-be-replaced u-joints. RockAuto shows the replaceable propeller shaft joints as Moog/Precision Part #391 for the 240Z's. $11.76. http://www.rockauto.com/

The common name is stud, not bolt. Put this in to Google - site:hybridz.org wheel stud removal

Have you compared lengths? I'm fairly certain that one of the 240SX VLSD shafts is longer than the 280ZXT shafts. The shorter 280ZXT shaft (or 280Z stub axles) will fit but won't engage with the VLSD unit. It will be an open diff, not locking. Edit - actually I already said this in post #2.....

Did he use the ZX distributor mount? See 6th picture down - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

Probably need to set your trigger angle. http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/base_timing_how_to.htm http://msextra.com/doc/ms3/checktiming.html

Maybe it is an L26. The stamp is on the passenger side of the block, back by 5 and 6. More info. Looks like they had flat top and dished pistons in the 260Z. The CR's in the link below don't match the FSM, but who knows. The 260Z used the P30 block, but had several different head and piston combinations, apparently. http://www.xenons30.com/Engine.html

According to the Techncial Bulletin in Humble's "How To Restore..." book, page 196, Nissan stopped using the noise-reducing washer in 1974, after RLS30-32966 (I'm just repeating what he wrote, I thought the S30's were HLS. Might be a typo.). The Bulletin is apparently dated 8-3-74. Is there a reason that you don't want to use the factory specification, or does the wiggle just make you uncomfortable? You never said what you measured with the indicator.

Some circlips stay inside the diff (the early ones), some ride on the shaft (the later ones). Maybe you're trying to use both at the same time.

Measure voltage to the Lamp wire with the key on. No voltage, no windings current, no magnetism, no charging.

I was actually responding to 78zstyle. He should tell why his ideas are so sensible, as opposed to silly. Justify his comment with some examples of what makes sense. Your Z will have a bigger, more modern engine with a more modern EMS. Seems reasonably sensible, although it could be expensive by the time you're done. In the big picture though, the only reason to spend any money at all on a 35 year old car is because you think you'll enjoy it. Being sensible has little to do with it. Good luck with the project.

Pressure differential drives flow. With the "right" splitter design and side skirts you could probably get air to flow in the hood vents, past the engine, and out the bottom. By the same logic, you could imagine that hood vents affect lift and handling at speed also. When you want the air to flow needs definition to decide what works and what doesn't. Just sayin'. I have no race car.

How about a description of your car, and why it's so sensible?

Tapered roller bearing vs. ball bearing. Edit for clarity - the rotational torque spec. is for the front tapered roller bearings. Torque on the nut determines rotational force in the bearing. The spec. for the rear roller bearings is just a range of shaft play, since the ball bearings need a certain amount of room in their races to work properly. If you get it too tight the balls will ride up the side of the race. Too loose and the inner races will move around.

The only thing that the 240SX transmission offers is the front cover for the collar to ride on. The clutch fork pivot point is on the 71B bellhousing. You could bolt on just the 71B bellhousing and get the clutch to work, if you could keep the fork from dropping. You might rethink things.

The FSM says 0 to 0.0059" is in spec.

Forgot about cygnusx1's adapter option. Fits between the wheel axle companion flange and the CV axle flange. http://forums.hybridz.org/files/file/3-cv-adapter-print/

This guy makes it sound pretty easy. The 280ZX and 240Z companion flanges are both 25 spline apparently (280Z is different, oddly enough), and will swap right over with just a dust seal modification. http://www.zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/HalfShaft.html Here's another one, can't remember if it's the same guy or not - http://alteredz.com/240ZCVHalfshaftConversion.htm

Probably too much mish mash...

The body styles changed dramatically in 1979. They are defined as the S30 (240Z through 280Z) and S130 (280ZX). You have an S130. The only parts that are easily interchanged between the S30 and S130 are the engine, transmission, differential and half-shafts, and possibly the wheels. The easiest way to convert would be to buy a 240Z body and move all of your running gear over. www.xenons30.com www.xenons130.com

It's not necessary, according to Redline. Read the White Paper, 2nd page, Directions For Use. http://www.redlineoil.com/techinfo.aspx

Might be too late - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113367-l26-200-mostly-complete-l28et-distributer-80-and-maf-50/?do=findComment&comment=1061955

Could be that you have a bad battery and that was the original problem. Not clear how you determined that the alternator was putting out "plenty of power" to charge the battery. Vague. Did you measure amperage? Voltage? I would have your battery checked.

Not enough detail to know what you really did. What year car? Why do you have the BAT post connected directly to the battery cable instead of to the thick white charge wire that feeds the fusible links (the original configuration)? Why do you think the problem is in the T plug? And do you know that the alternator you swapped in is a good one?

MSD stands for Multiple Spark Discharge. Supposed to provide better ignition in some cases. http://www.msdignition.com/page.aspx?id=8451 In theory, it's a better ignition module than the ZX type module. I'm pretty sure that you could run an MSD 6AL with just your 77 distributor. The pickup coil in the 77 will control the 6AL. It would be best to build a matched dignition system. Coil and module designed to work together. The ballast resistor is there to drop the amps that pass through the coil and module both, as a system. Mismatched systems will work but might not give the best spark or might wear out sooner. You might consider the GM HEI module also. Cheap and seems dependable. Not glamorous, but effective. Check the replacement cost of a ZX module before going that route. It's about the same as replacing your 77 module, and the ZX modules are known to die also.