NewZed

Tried to start a 63 Pontiac Bonnevile once, that had only sat for one year. It just wouldn't fire even though it had spark and good fuel. A farmer drove by on his tractor and told us to squirt some oil in the cylinders. It started right up with a big cloud of blue smoke. Maybe your cylinders dried out and you're not getting good compression. With new unseated rings, it's probably more likely to happen.

The fan pulls air in through the radiator. You should be able to figure out rotation from that.

Fixing the gauge won't make your engine run better. The ECU has its own sensor. 77 does not have a fuel pump priming function. Read the Engine Fuel chapter for how the fuel injection system works, and Body Electrical for the gauge. www.xenons30.com/reference

http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/3672680155.html Not mine. Just saw it on CL.

Recent posters are ignoring or unaware of the history of Ben's Z's project. If you don't consider his other threads it does seem like Tony D just walked in to the party and started acting like an ass. But Ben's Z's project is a series of errors and ignored advice. He seems more focused on venting on the forum than actually doing things right. It's almost like he goes out in to the garage to screw something up so that he can come here and bitch about the injustice of the world. You do have to give him credit though, for continuously coming back to expose his lack of skills, and for more of the resulting verbal abuse. It's certainly entertaining and I'm looking forward to future threads about the blown engine/turbo/transmission or whatever, once he gets it running, in the the next year or two.

What year is it? Early 240s are popular restored, later ones not so much. The simplest way to get a good idea is to watch CL for a while and see what sells for what. From what I've seen, most people don't want to buy someone else's V8 conversion unless it's very well done. I see the same V8 swaps listed for months and sometimes years. Most people seem to buy these cars so they'll have something to play with on the weekends. They (we) spend lots of money on them, either a nickel and dime at a time or in big chunks, and stop keeping track once the number gets really big. The odds of recouping your investment costs, let alone making a profit, are terrible.

It should have run fine as you had it wired, red to W and green to G, IF it was running before and only the stock module crapped out. You never said why you were using the GM HEI module. Did the engine run before? I have damaged a GM module by running my engine with only 4 spark plug wires attached. After that it would only start with Starting fluid even when warm. It would run, it just wouldn't start. Installed a new module and it was back to normal. Still not sure what exactly happened inside the module to do that. I've seen other cases where people damaged the modules during installation.

There's Ray's check valve... There could be a better term for what the BOV actually does. Doesn't seem like it really does much blowing off. And there seem to be several ways to achieve the desired result. "Blow-off valve" seems like an over-simplification and should probably not be used to describe anything. Just a thought - ban the BOV.

Get the stock heat shields back on and you'll probably be back to heat soak only within a 20 minute period from 10 to 30 minutes after a hot shut-off, just like everyone else with a stock 280Z.

Don't forget radiant heat. It's line-of-sight. Any hot parts will be radiating heat and anything that is in the view of them will be absorbing it. Could be a hot spot on the bottom of the manifold.

The fuel may not be there but the heat still is. Do you have any heat shields at all? Nissan put a lot of effort in to keeping heat away from the fuel system, from rail and FPR to injectors.

Can't help you on the different measurements. I was considering usng the W24 manifold so took side-by-side measurements a couple of days ago, a 1981 P79/F54 engine manifold compared to an N47 from a 78 N47/N47. The TB diameter and bolt pattern and positioning is definitely different. The W24 TB from the ZX is surprisingly smaller than the N42, as are the hoses that connect it to the air filter. I didn't say that the turbo manifold was the same as the W24, I offered it as a possibility, since the W24 is different and comes from the same ZX body style. Which you'd know if you had one to measure. Looks like we're all adding to the confusion. Check valve (? - check valves don't generally "bleed" pressure), BOV, emergency relief valve (Nissan's term), definitions of each, how they work, where to plumb them and whether or not to use them. Looks messy. Yeehah.

Are you going to use the N42 manifold, or the turbo manifold? I was just comparing a ZX NA W24 intake to an N47 intake. The dimensions are slighty different, the throttle body mounting boss position is farther back (more room for you) and the throttle shaft also (the distance to the firewal will be shorter). And the N42 throttle body is bigger than the ZX, with a different bolt pattern. IIf you're using the N42 intake to mock up for the turbo intake, you might be wasting some time. Plus, the BCDD is probably hanging from the bottom of the turbo manifold, that's why there is none on the TB. Nissan moved it from the TB to the bottom of the manifold with the W24 manifold.

Make sure the stock igntion module is disconnected, and the wire ends insulated. One possibility. Otherwise, the connections look right. That's how my 76 is connected. And, by "HEI is grounded by a wire" you mean the mounting hole with the wide ferrule is grounded. That's the important one, I believe.

Where are you?

Even if you don't know what a CCR is (I don't) this is funny. http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=0d4_1362682283

When things don't make sense a checklist is one way to find the cause(s) of the problem. Verify fuel supply, power to various components, signals generated are getting to where they need to go, etc. Sometimes fixing one problem creates another. Running through the checklist after every attempted fix verifies that nothing was lost or changed by the fix. Most people experienced in working with engines have a mental checklist they run through. The OP is looking for a simple answer from someone who has had the same problem. It doesn't look like anyone has the answer so he'll have to start measuring and verifying that the system has what it needs to make the engine run correctly. The thread so far is a series of random guesses. My post #47 was one of them.

Honda? By the way, the FAQ sections are usually meant to be read and not posted in, unless useful information is being added.

This is what the 280Z's do when the fuel pump is only running on the Start circuit. Enough fuel pressure to start, then dies when the key is released and the fuel pump turns off. Are you measuring fuel pressure while starting? The buzzing relay could be a sign of a pump power/pressure problem.

1976.

I think that you confused people when you said that you were perfectly happy with the stock setup, but might go with a Wilwood 1" master cylinder. That would just give you less pedal travel with more pedal force required, to get the same braking effect. It would be different from what was working fine. The cheapest, fastest way to get right back to the system that works perfectly would probably be to buy a rebuilt stock MC. Take it apart and clean it up before installing to be sure there's no honing residue inside.

Any possibility that the "auto clean" wire is more important than you thought. Maybe it needs to be connected, maybe it's not just auto clean, maybe it's not auto clean at all.

I'm fairly certain that the easiest way to tell is to look for a CHTS in the vicinity of, underneath and between, the 5 and 6 spark plugs. The 280Z N47 doesn't have one, the Maxima does. Of course, they both have N47 molded underneath and between the 1 and 2 plugs.

Broken e-brake light switch. Low fluid (ZX). Pressure imbalance front to back. Key at Run, but engine not running. Shorted wires....

Number 9...number 9... It's in the link I included. Also called strut mount. Sits between the top of the strut and the car body.