NewZed

You replied over on zcar.com, if that's what you mean. He posted the same thing on classiczcars, zcar and here, maybe more.

The later (Type 4 and 5 speed transmissions are the same length and use the same drive shaft. For example, I've had a 78, 80 and 83 5 speed in my 76 car that came with a stock 4 speed and the original 4 speed shaft worked fine. Plus it was identical to the drive shaft that came in the car I got the 78 5 speed from (bought a parts car). Pretty sure that the early 4 speeds are the same length also. The drive shaft length changed with the diff mounting position. Early is about 28 3/8", later is about 29 3/4". I think that it's been determined that the measurements in Nigel's picture in Post #2 are off a little bit. Not sure if that's your question since your sig says RB26DETT, 2-speed Powerglide, etc. Different car? Edit - B followed by parens = smug face apparently. (Type

That adapter looks interesting. How long are the GM CV shaft assemblies? Did you have new shafts made to fit, or size the adapter to work?

I just saw a short driveshaft in a 240Z at the Portland OR South PicknPull (I posted on another thread also about the trans mount). The front yoke adapter looked a little worn around the seal area and the dust shield has a big ding in it. But the u-joints seemed in good shape. I had to ballpark the length, but, coincidentally, I had a one foot stick that I was using to estimate CV shaft length. There was also a normal length shaft there so I'm 95% positive it's a short one. If you need it bad, you could get both and swap the other yoke on to the short shaft. 240s have the replaceable u-joints. Two manual transmissions, an engine block and an N42 head are also in the car. Looks like someone gave up on a project or finished one and got rid of the extra stuff.

Just saw one inside a 240Z at the Portland OR South PicknPull. It's been removed and sitting inside along with a bunch of other parts. If you know someone in the Portland area, or if someone wants to get it for you. I'm not in to parts selling and shipping myself.

The blue wire from the coil negative terminal to Pin 1 of the ECU may not be connected. Assuming that you have spark. The ECU doesn't send a signal to the injectors, it just grounds the circuit every three coil discharges. It "sees" the coil discharge through the wire from the coil negative. You most likely had an electronic ignition system before since all of the EFI engines came with them, so your comment about upgrading to electrical (assume you meant electronic) doesn't make sense. If you swapped in a ZX distributor with the "matchbox' on the side, you might not have disconnected the other ignition module in the cabin. That might screw up the signal to the ECU. Type and year of car would make things more clear.

With the EFI system you really have to be able to identify and separate the various issues if you want to get things running right. In your first post you said that you bought the car knowing it had a problem and it's gotten progressively worse. Now you're saying that it never did this for a month, then started and got worse. So it's either an old problem that maybe a PO tried to fix, or it's a totally new problem. Plus, you changed the intake/exhaust gasket for some reason. Maybe you fixed a problem, maybe you created a new one when you changed the gasket. It's easy to get the various symptoms and potential solutions mixed up. That's why taking measurements, even of components that you're positive are good, will help you determine what's really wrong and get all of the parts working together. Edit - don't forget to check your TPS. If it's stuck on wide open, the ECU will dump fuel. Maybe you banged it when you removed the manifolds. Best to sit at the ECU plug with the FSM and take all of the measurements you can from the connector, with a friend to move various parts like the AFM vane and the throttle.

The EFI "bible" is easier to use but the Factory Service Manual has the specific numbers you need to compare your readings to. www.xenons30.com/reference There is a table of resistance versus temperature for the coolant sensor in the Engine Fuel chapter. The proper numbers for the AFM readings are there also. I'm not sure what you mean by #1, #2 and #3, but I assume that those are the tests for the AFM potentiometer. I do know that the 77 AFM should have a 180 ohm and a 100 ohm reading at the AFM. Looks like your AFM readings might be off. Here's a picture from the 76 manual, the procedure is the same as for 77. AFMs are expensive. Some people have had luck with cleaning up the carbon trace and contacts. If yours is bad, you might try that. The ECU uses the AFM to determine how much fuel to add. From what I've seen they usually go bad on the lean side, so that might not be your only problem.

Bonus info - the ZX didn't appear until 1979. But the 79 ZX did have the N47 head, as did the 78 280Z. The head will swap straight over for the N42, without even removing the camshaft, or any of the rocker arms. The N42/N42 and N42/N47 engines are essentially identical, except for the shape of the head's exhaust ports, and the liners in the N47 head's ports. If the other engine is in decent shape, it might actually be easier to swap engines. Just something to think about. The main advice would be to download the FSM from the xenons30 site and read the Engine Mechanical chapter BEFORE you take anything apart. You need to tell the story about how you screwed up the N42 head though, just to keep people interested.

inline's thread is cursed. Even with a picture, people keep coming up with the wrong part. That's a front diff mount, az240z.

Drift car? You never mentioned that. MAF? Hot wire or stock 83 vane type AFM? The BCDD that you shaved off would normally add air to clean up the closed throttle mixture. Some of the other stuff might also be designed to lean things out. Hesitates, then goes, is more like a lean mixture. But 440 cc injectors with a stock Z31 ECU almost guarantees rich. Looks like just a mis-match of parts and ECU. Reading back through the thread, it's kind of odd that you ended up with this setup. Even the Z31 ECU is designed to work with a certain set of parts, I don't think that you can stray far from stock. It's not self-tuning, as I understand it.

I knew it was too easy. Pretty sure that there are two styles for the 240Z - bolt directly to the body with four bolts, and mounted to ears on the body with two long through bolts. You should probably specify year.

You need to get some numbers. Fuel pressure, coolant sensor resistance versus temperature at the ECU plug, etc. If it runs better with the sensor unplugged, then you have a lean problem. Maybe low fuel pressure, for example, or clogged injectors.

Almost impossible to diagnose without measuring the basics, like fuel pressure, CHTS resistance versus temperature at the ECU plug, etc. Someone may have "tuned" your AFM to make up for a different messed-up part. Maybe someone installed high flow injectors in a misguided attempt for more power. Many possible causes for the "running rich" problem.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1972-Nissan-Datsun-240Z/Transmission-Mount/_/N-iplx9Z6o23q?filterByKeyWord=mount&fromString=search Got one for a 76, it seemed of good quality. Wouldn't buy a used one, the 40 year old rubber will be sagged and soft (no offense to anyone 40 or over).

At 2:36, it sounds like the diff's locking function wasn't even being used. Sounded like neutral power to the diff on the audio, no decceleration, no acceleration. The sliding looks like my car right after I got it running and drove around on wet streets with 10 year old tires.

What did you mean by "cut the bearing race off"? You need two surfaces for the outer (larger diameter) races, and a means to clamp the inner races together with a spacer in-between. The strut holds the outer races and the hub rides on the inners. Loads transferred by the bearings. Ball bearings in the rear, not rollers, for the 240Z's and 280Z's, maybe in general for the rear bearings. As I understand things, no expert.

Sounds like you're already trying this and partway there. You said in #7 you were looking for a 33mm inner, but then reported looking for a 32mm in #8. Good luck, looks interesting.

The benefit would be a five lug hub? How do you plan to hold the hub to the strut. Are you asking about fitting bearings or machining things to fit or both? The small details are usually the killers.

Sorry, you caught me goofing around. I searched "cast pistons" and found a lot of reading, it's a fairly popular topic. Here's a good thread - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/108206-broken-ring-land-lame/page__pid__1015399__st__20#entry1015399. The extra power you'll get from more RPM would depend on the other components. The pistons just let you take advantage without breaking. Piston decision should probably come after you know what the engine design is capable of.

Higher RPM.

I don't know if this thread's results fit your board, but might give you some ideas - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/108839-looking-for-help-fixing-ms1-problem/page__p__1017712__hl__cramer__fromsearch__1#entry1017712

Didn't change the cylinder pressure or didn't change the no-start after driving? More details will help you out. You said the car won't start after you drive it around but obviously it will after a certain amount of time. How much time? Coolant temperature? Checking cylinder pressure after the engine ran well is not really one of the first things to be done to diagnose a no-start. Working on cylinder pressure results is probably a wild goose chase.

Painting everything they make with the broad "it all sucks" brush doesn't teach anyone anything. And, "it's a spray painted junk yard part" is obviously wrong. It's a rebuilt junk yard part, I don't think that they even paint them. Back to the OP's question though, about injectors and distributors, I can't even find that Cardone makes injectors for a gas engine, I only see diesel. So that question might be irrelevant. The 1978 280Z Cardone distributor is sold by O'Reilly and Autozone, and it looks like Napa rebrands the same part as a Napa rebuild, aan dit's the only option for all three. Cardone might be the only supplier of rebuilt distributors so the question is moot, unless you go to zspecialties (datsunstore) or one of the Z-focused shops. Much more expensive. http://www.datsunstore.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=distributor&x=0&y=0

Are you testing at the T plug or at the point you cut the old wire? Your results on the white/black wire are what you would expect for the L wire. No power with the key off, and power with the key on. The charge light should go on when it's grounded, assuming it's the right wire that comes through the lamp. If you have a test light, you could ground through the T plug through the light (to avoid a dead short if it's the wrong wire) and the charge lamp should glow with the key on. It's also possible but a little unlikely that the alternator does not have a good ground, or that it's bad. Check the ground through the alternator case. Power should come through the lamp, down the wire to the T plug and in to the windings then ground.