NewZed

It was a test. You failed.

The ECU, AFM, distributor and manifolds (with BCDD and various vacuum operated devices) that you're using with the F54/P90 engine will make a big difference. The turbo stuff won't work right, and the original 1975 stuff would need some tweaking. What are you using?

Advice - Take some time to format your words so that people can read them. Too much work to read your blob of letters.

You can get new plastic bushings for the old style shifters from Courtesy Parts or zpecialties.com if you decide to go that route. They might also have new bushings for your ZX style shifter. I would call both if they don't show on the web site. Both easy to work with, and quick shipping. http://www.courtesyparts.com/ www.zspecialties.com Old style- http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/pName/shift-bushings-stock-7280

Check that carpet isn't holding the vent doors open. The ones that point at your feet.

If you're handy and have the tools, this thread offers an option. From Hybridz member cygnusx1 - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/34969-cv-adapter-print/page__p__452891__hl__%2Badapter+%2Bdrawing__fromsearch__1#entry452891

Maybe the clutch dust that worked it's way in before has ruined the seals on the Tilton MC. Your description of erratic behavior sounds like bad seals somewhere. I re-read your thread and didn't see "new" or "rebuilt" master cylinder in there. It's the only old part left.

Pretty sure I've seen NA ZX's with CV half-shafts and seen it reported on other forums, and picked up a diff myself with CV shafts that the guy pulled from his NA ZX. Maybe it was an option, or an upgrade. But, even so, there appears to only one type of CV half-shaft available for the ZX's, so irrelevant unless you're looking for CV's.

No guarantees. And my TEMP reading went down with a higher oil pressure reading, not up. If you're not getting a TEMP reading at all, it's probably your temperature sensor, up front. Have you measured resistance through the sensor? It should be between zero and infinity but not either.

If it's a piece of shift fork, the aluminum will settle out if you let the fluid sit. Put a pint in a jar and see what ends up on the bottom.

Sounds like a failing hard drive. They're pretty cheap. Worth buying a new one and cloning the old one before it dies.

I've seen milky gray from ground up aluminum. You might have a broken shift fork. Fifth uses the same fork as reverse, how is shifting in to fifth? The remaining pieces of the fork will still shift the gears, but the broken piece(s) floating around get ground up in the gears.

The PCV valve is more complicated than it looks. From what I can figure out,the spring is actually tuned for the application. In most cases, the valve sits slightly open, and is moved either way by vacuum or backfire (or boost, I assume). You should probably be able to blow through it when it's off the engine. I know that you can blow through the NA valves, I doubt that turbo valves are much different, if at all, at zero intake vacuum (between WOT and boost). Google some images of "PCV valve" and you'll get some ideas.

Keep looking? Post an E-Bay link so people know what you're looking at? Start a Parts Wanted thread? Speedometer replacement threads are rare, yours if the first I've seen. I doubt that many people even know the speedometer has a green connector and "relay". The "relay" might be the speed sensor for the BCDD, which is only used on EFI engines, starting in 1975.

I've seen a few threads on in-tank options. Search "in-tank" on all forums and you'll find some threads. I don't think that the whole ZX tank will fit in a Z. The dimensions are wrong.

Isn't the first answer - more limited slip additive? My mistake - re John C's Post #6.

Don't forget RockAuto. They show some low prices there.

Just saw your post on another forum. If you can't decide, you should just sell it. You'll have two cars, therefore twice as many decisions to make. You might consider giving it away, then you won't have to decide on a price. Use www.craiglist.org

Search "ford valve seals" something will come up. Don't know if they're cheaper.

The FSM lists propeller shaft lengths, for the ZX's. No pictures though so have to assume it's end to end, but could be wrong. Says 575 mm for the L28ET and 580 for the NA. Coupes. 1982.

Edited - Don't want to break the rules...

You could use this calculator - http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ - and reduce the head gasket thickness by .040" to simulate the shaved head.

The nuts are usually specific to the shock/strut and new struts come with their own nuts. If you're buying new struts you'll get new nuts. If you're re-fitting old struts you'll need to specify the brand to get the right nut. The nut fits around the top of the strut to center it in the bore.

I went through a similar period of worry this summer and discovered (I think) a few odd things. It could be an overactive imagination but they seemed real at the time. If you have an aftermarket thermostat with the smaller offset hole, clocking the hole toward the sensors (frontward) seems to drop the reading a small amount. I took the thermostat out to replace it but found that it actually opened farther than the new one I was going to put in. So I put it back but with the hole forward. I would guess that there might have been lower flow past the sensors with it on the back side. I changed my oil pressure sender to one that actually reads correctly, about the same as the mechanical one mounted at the engine, and my temperature reading dropped again, about a quarter letter. They use the same voltage regulator in the gauge, so I would guess that altered current flow on one side affected the reading on the other side. The old one read zero at ~20 psi at idle, the new one reads correctly. I still ended up replacing the radiator with a Murray brand radiator from O'Reilly which made the reading stable and even lower. The other radiator, which looked aftermarket and old, just couldn't keep up on the hot days, I assume that it was clogged. It leaked a little bit anyway so replacing it was an easy decision. For anyone thinking Murray, the radiator core itself seems of good quality, but the shroud mounting holes were too small and misplaced for the shroud to fit right, and only three of the four main mounting holes were in the correct spot. Poor quality but it can be made to work. Just some weird things I saw when I was trying to get my cooling under control. I have a fan shroud on my 76, which probably helps. By the way, Courtesy Nissan has stock made in Japan thermostats available that have the bigger hole. I got one after all of the stuff described above so it's still on the shelf for future use.

Just saw this on Portland CL. No idea who it is. http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/3274807069.html