NewZed

Don't forget RockAuto. They show some low prices there.

Search "ford valve seals" something will come up. Don't know if they're cheaper.

The FSM lists propeller shaft lengths, for the ZX's. No pictures though so have to assume it's end to end, but could be wrong. Says 575 mm for the L28ET and 580 for the NA. Coupes. 1982.

Edited - Don't want to break the rules...

You could use this calculator - http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ - and reduce the head gasket thickness by .040" to simulate the shaved head.

The nuts are usually specific to the shock/strut and new struts come with their own nuts. If you're buying new struts you'll get new nuts. If you're re-fitting old struts you'll need to specify the brand to get the right nut. The nut fits around the top of the strut to center it in the bore.

I went through a similar period of worry this summer and discovered (I think) a few odd things. It could be an overactive imagination but they seemed real at the time. If you have an aftermarket thermostat with the smaller offset hole, clocking the hole toward the sensors (frontward) seems to drop the reading a small amount. I took the thermostat out to replace it but found that it actually opened farther than the new one I was going to put in. So I put it back but with the hole forward. I would guess that there might have been lower flow past the sensors with it on the back side. I changed my oil pressure sender to one that actually reads correctly, about the same as the mechanical one mounted at the engine, and my temperature reading dropped again, about a quarter letter. They use the same voltage regulator in the gauge, so I would guess that altered current flow on one side affected the reading on the other side. The old one read zero at ~20 psi at idle, the new one reads correctly. I still ended up replacing the radiator with a Murray brand radiator from O'Reilly which made the reading stable and even lower. The other radiator, which looked aftermarket and old, just couldn't keep up on the hot days, I assume that it was clogged. It leaked a little bit anyway so replacing it was an easy decision. For anyone thinking Murray, the radiator core itself seems of good quality, but the shroud mounting holes were too small and misplaced for the shroud to fit right, and only three of the four main mounting holes were in the correct spot. Poor quality but it can be made to work. Just some weird things I saw when I was trying to get my cooling under control. I have a fan shroud on my 76, which probably helps. By the way, Courtesy Nissan has stock made in Japan thermostats available that have the bigger hole. I got one after all of the stuff described above so it's still on the shelf for future use.

Just saw this on Portland CL. No idea who it is. http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/3274807069.html

There is a whole series of diagrams in the FSM AC section that show how everything works. Sounds like your water cock might be jammed though. Moving the lever to heat should open the valve and let water flow. Are you sure that the hoses to the heater core from the engine are connected? They get blocked or bypassed by owners quite often when the core starts to leak.

What about the other knob? AC Vent Fresh, etc. It matters.

Wouldn't the impeller diameter be the number that matters? The diesel impeller is larger diameter? No need for eyeball estimates then. The RockAuto picture looks like a gas impeller in a diesel housing. To my eye. Taking parallax and other photographic distortions in to account. Edit- maybe this guy can take a measurement...

No, it's not difficult. But you do have to devise a spacer that will fit inside the case and around the Maxima shaft since the clamping surface on the Maxima alt is recessed . Plus the flats on the interior of the pulley (a 78 pulley anyway) need to be rounded out to fit over the Maxima alt shaft. And, if you want the pulley center to be in the right spot, you'll probably have to relieve the Maxima case of a small amount of material, otherwise the V pulley will rub. And you'll need a different nut, since the Maxima nut has a recess inside before the threads start. You'll end up with one or two threads for clamping otherwise. Someone recently noted these problems in a different thread also. Just saying, it's not a straight bolt-on.

The 77 external and the ZX internally regulated alternator both put out 60 amps. The turbo alternator was rated at 70, but the parts store all replace it with a 60 amp if you get a rebuilt. The 90's Maxima alternator is not a straight bolt-in, you have to change the ribbed belt pulley for a v-belt pulley. The mounting points are the same, the pulley isn't. It takes a little bit of ingenuity to get the v-belt located and mounted right. And you would still have to rewire for internal versus the 77's external. If you decide to go internal but want to keep the wires intact, you can run jumper wires at the connector instead of cutting. It would probably come out cleaner looking anyway.

We're getting circular here. That was my point, it "looks" like the gas impeller. Plus, why would they cast and machine the small shaft hole in the big impeller, unless they wanted to use the small shaft so they could use a small bearing and seal. The details don't make sense. No biggy, just pointing out a difference. A measurement would tell the story.

I only have my metric eye to use on the pictures, but the impeller looks bigger in ozconnection's picture, Post #22. How can you be definite?

Doesn't that look like an "in-between" pump? The impeller and its shaft are smaller diameter, but the casting, or divider, for flow control is short like the diesel pump. Referring to Post #22. Looks like a hybrid of those two.

For the record I measured on a 76 EFI system. Maybe the turbo system, with ECCS, is different. Watched your video. It kind of sounds like my car when I had the plug wires on in reverse rotation. It ran, but sounded terrible. Like yours. I notice you have an open exhaust. That can't be helping your O2 sensor signal. I don't know enough to guess at what effect a cold exposed O2 sensor would have on the signal to the ECU but it might be worth checking out. Good luck.

I would guess that your measurements are off. If your noid light fires, the ECU is doing what it's supposed to do. Put an injector on each plug and see if you can feel or hear it clicking, or use a screwdriver from injector to ear, to make sure there's enough current to actuate each injector. The engine runs. You should be able to inspect spark plugs, pull injector connections to see if a cylinder is dead, check timing, etc. You're digging in to the things that aren't really related to the problem you initially described, and getting ready to fix things that aren't broken.

Both sides are supposed to have 12 volts. It's one of the weird things about transistor control. The injectors are controlled by transistors in the ECU. They should all have 12 volts on each side. I couldn't explain the magic behind it but I just went and checked one of mine to be sure. 12 volts on each pin with key on.

Maybe your AFR reading is incorrect. Jumped on to Google and found this interesting article - http://www.mpsracing.com/instructions/Daytona/WEGO2_NB_Instructions.pdf Page 3 describes erroneous reading causes.

The noise could be just the urethane bushings more tightly mounted in the new bar transmitting differential noise. But please explain the "ripped" mustache bar. Pictures would be good.

I've been pondering a Q45 mount for my car, and I see that yours has one of the design elements that worried me. You've created a fairly long lever arm to work on the body mounting points. The nose of the diff lifts up on the end of your mount at the two diff mounting bolts, putting a much higher twisting load on the body mounting points than the long nose would. The rubber mounting doesn't add any stiffness and just lets the diff nose push up on the lever over and over. The long nose pushes directly up on the body mounts, yours pushes up on the end of the lever arm. It's probably failure by fatigue after a bunch of flexing cycles. You need to get more support over the end of the diff nose, or extend the other end of the mount so that it can't twist.

A similar thought was in the back of my mind, I thought that I had read that the 75 flange matched the Z31 flange. But I didn't think that the 280ZX (S130) turbo cars had a different flange on the R200 than the NA 280ZX's. The FSM shows a different drive shaft part number for the turbo cars, but I thought that it was for length for the FS5R90A transmission, not the flange. Another twist. Still, his post is specific to 1975 and 280ZX turbo R200s, watch out for those. Thanks for clarifying.

Just realized that you have a 1975 280Z, which has the odd flange on the R200. I think that it's the bolt size that is different and/or the pattern. Maybe that's why the 240Z drive shaft wouldn't fit your R200. Although the 280Zx shaft shouldn't fit either, unless you put the 75 tail end on it. Still weird. Nigel, thanks for the reply on the 240Z shaft issue. I hate to cause confusion but the measurements are the only way to verify what's what after they've been pulled off of the cars.

Probably will. With electronics though, it's the "and such" stuff that gets you.