NewZed

Heat would destroy any thread-locker that was present, plus give some expansion of the nut. I'm always surprised by the effect.

Maybe he was venting his disappointment. The title implies that there's more in the thread than just a question. The 1990 300ZX is the Z32 I believe, with the short nose R200. That is the more difficult diff swap. See here - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ Buy here - http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=74&PHPSESSID=664fa626f11aa37b79b99a9dd82712be

"packing bearings" on youtube - http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=packing+bearings&oq=packing+bearings&aq=f&aqi=g3&aql=&gs_l=youtube.3..0l3.272.7550.0.7837.22.22.5.7.10.0.157.1066.6j4.10.0.

Sudden death is typical of loss of spark. Ignition module would be next in line after the other things you've tried. The AFM is just a potentiometer, no transistors to overheat.

Pretty sure the 75 ECU is the same as the 76. There should be part numbers on both. The ignition module could be your problem, they do tend to fail or show that they're failing when hot, apparently. Sometimes high RPM will bring the problem on. I had a module that I could cause to sputter and misfire by revving to over 3500 RPM. Turn the engine off and restart and it would go back to normal. I could drive around all day as long as I kept the RPM low.

I've seen a common recipe over on zcar.com for using the RRFPR with a turbo. It involves locking the timing on the distributor and using the RRFPR to dump fuel to prevent self-destruction. Crude, but apparently boost happens and the motor lives. You might get more help over there.

5. The low beam/high beam problem is actually more likely from the dimmer switch/turn signal assembly. I fixed mine (same problem) by hosing the insides of the dimmer switch with CAIG DeoxIT, but I think that they can be taken apart and cleaned up also. I had planned to but the DeoxIT worked so well that I never did.

The screw next to the dashpot is the idle adjustment screw. It lets air past the throttle blade. If you can tune it with no effect, it is either so far out that the screw is not in the air flow path anymore or you have another path past the throttle blade, like a vacuum leak or the AAR is stuck open. Crank it all the way in, and if nothing happens check for those two problems. I wouldn't mess with the AFM until you get full control over air to the intake manifold. You'll just make a big mess, and end up going to carbs or trying Megasquirt. Popping back through the intake is also a fair sign of lean, which could also be a vacuum leak or plugged injectors or low fuel pressure...

Why do you need an "upgrade"? Have you considered a straight replacement with a working stock-style alternator? Many auto parts stores will test your alternator and your battery, in the car, for free.

The yellow and red paint is at a lower RPM on the 280Z tachometer than on the 240Z tachometer. Therefore....

drivetrain.com has the wrong transmission style numbers on their web site. Apparently (from comments I've seen), your best bet is to order the kit by the year of car, and you will get some of the parts you need, but might have to get some specific parts, like bearings, from other sources. The 1-4 synchros are the same from late 1971 to well in to 80s. The 5th gear synchro changed somewhere in there. There's a few other sites that sell rebuild kits and they also have the wrong transmission numbers. I think that someone created a bad database in the past, it has spread around, and now it's permanent. I've sent a few e-mails to drivetrain.com about the mis-match of year and number, and got replies, but the guy couldn't seem to comprehend what I was telling him.

More interesting - why did you weld your diff?

Volvo?

Sounds like an air bubble in a caliper or two. You can get bubble free flow because the fluid passes under the bubble on the way out. If you can hold it and they don't release that's a sign that pistons in the master cylinder have a good seal. The pump-up action is a sign of an air bubble, being compressed. One more sign of an air bubble is if a large volume of fluid leaves the reservoir when you're pumping the brakes. If the piston is slipping, the fluid is left behind, while compressing an air bubble takes fluid to replace the volume. Have a friend watch the reservoir or set a mirror up.

I think that Hybridz member Burleigh was making and selling the braces for use with the finned covers. Are the covers really selling for $140? I just saw one on a welded diff from a junkyard 240SX. Quite a disappointment when I pulled the cover.

Here you go seedman - http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html

The alternator is on the same circuit as the battery so if you had a short the battery could short out too. The battery can pump out a lot more amps in a short time than the alternator can. If you don't have flames now, a higher capacity alternator won't increase the odds.

Did you look in the FSM? Try the Electrical section for the name. If the parts stores don't have it, try courtesyparts.com.

I think that he's just talking about the stiffness of the CV joint itself, alone, flopping around on the end of the shaft assembly. Affected by the thickness of the grease, the angle that you're holding it, the stiffness of the rubber boot, how worn the CV joint itself is, etc. There's probably better ways to determine if a joint is worn.

Looks like the assembly with the threaded stud comes out the top, is rotated and then dropped back in. Is there access to the top of it from inside the car? Or do those two bolts on what looks like an access plate come out and give you room to push it up and rotate it?

Clogged fuel tank vent? Just guessing. Take off the gas cap next time it happens.

The N42 has a spray bar. They went to internally oiled with the N47. The P79 is internally oiled. If you block the spray bar holes on the cam towers all of the oil will flow through the P79 cam. So it's not a direct swap but it's not impossible. Of course, as described in other threads, you'll need the rocker arms to go with the cam, matched to the lobes they were riding on. You'll need to send your rockers with the cam, also marked for lobe usage, so the the other side of the trade can make the MSA cam work. This is as I understand things (recently enlightened), to get the best odds of a successful cam swap. You may even need to have the rocker arms reground, to be safe. #20 here has the basic summary - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/105756-camshaft-question/

I've read that there are hundreds of different models of T5, with different synchros, gear sets, etc. "T5" alone doesn't mean much. There are even two different "T5"s used in the ZX series,the FS5R30A and the FS5R90A. There is also an assumption that Nissan meant ATF when they specified "Dexron" in the FSM. Dexron is just a tradename, not a grade of oil. Many ways to get things wrong.

I think that's just a plain old later model Z/ZX FPR for EFI. You can even see the mounting plate, edge-on, hanging on the side. It is odd to have a stroker with a stock AFM on it though, considering the prevailing view that the stock AFM can barely handle a bigger cam. It looks like a stock engine except for the fuel rail. Who built it, where'd you get it?

Look through here - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/93-megasquirt/ for EDIS. Notice though, that you'll need an aftermarket EMS, like Megasquirt, to trigger it. What might work better for you is a Pertronix unit, or a 280Z distributor with a separate GM HEI module, or a 280Zx distributor with a built-in E12-80 ignition module.