NewZed

drivetrain.com has the wrong transmission style numbers on their web site. Apparently (from comments I've seen), your best bet is to order the kit by the year of car, and you will get some of the parts you need, but might have to get some specific parts, like bearings, from other sources. The 1-4 synchros are the same from late 1971 to well in to 80s. The 5th gear synchro changed somewhere in there. There's a few other sites that sell rebuild kits and they also have the wrong transmission numbers. I think that someone created a bad database in the past, it has spread around, and now it's permanent. I've sent a few e-mails to drivetrain.com about the mis-match of year and number, and got replies, but the guy couldn't seem to comprehend what I was telling him.

More interesting - why did you weld your diff?

Volvo?

Sounds like an air bubble in a caliper or two. You can get bubble free flow because the fluid passes under the bubble on the way out. If you can hold it and they don't release that's a sign that pistons in the master cylinder have a good seal. The pump-up action is a sign of an air bubble, being compressed. One more sign of an air bubble is if a large volume of fluid leaves the reservoir when you're pumping the brakes. If the piston is slipping, the fluid is left behind, while compressing an air bubble takes fluid to replace the volume. Have a friend watch the reservoir or set a mirror up.

I think that Hybridz member Burleigh was making and selling the braces for use with the finned covers. Are the covers really selling for $140? I just saw one on a welded diff from a junkyard 240SX. Quite a disappointment when I pulled the cover.

Here you go seedman - http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html

The alternator is on the same circuit as the battery so if you had a short the battery could short out too. The battery can pump out a lot more amps in a short time than the alternator can. If you don't have flames now, a higher capacity alternator won't increase the odds.

Did you look in the FSM? Try the Electrical section for the name. If the parts stores don't have it, try courtesyparts.com.

I think that he's just talking about the stiffness of the CV joint itself, alone, flopping around on the end of the shaft assembly. Affected by the thickness of the grease, the angle that you're holding it, the stiffness of the rubber boot, how worn the CV joint itself is, etc. There's probably better ways to determine if a joint is worn.

Looks like the assembly with the threaded stud comes out the top, is rotated and then dropped back in. Is there access to the top of it from inside the car? Or do those two bolts on what looks like an access plate come out and give you room to push it up and rotate it?

Clogged fuel tank vent? Just guessing. Take off the gas cap next time it happens.

The N42 has a spray bar. They went to internally oiled with the N47. The P79 is internally oiled. If you block the spray bar holes on the cam towers all of the oil will flow through the P79 cam. So it's not a direct swap but it's not impossible. Of course, as described in other threads, you'll need the rocker arms to go with the cam, matched to the lobes they were riding on. You'll need to send your rockers with the cam, also marked for lobe usage, so the the other side of the trade can make the MSA cam work. This is as I understand things (recently enlightened), to get the best odds of a successful cam swap. You may even need to have the rocker arms reground, to be safe. #20 here has the basic summary - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/105756-camshaft-question/

I've read that there are hundreds of different models of T5, with different synchros, gear sets, etc. "T5" alone doesn't mean much. There are even two different "T5"s used in the ZX series,the FS5R30A and the FS5R90A. There is also an assumption that Nissan meant ATF when they specified "Dexron" in the FSM. Dexron is just a tradename, not a grade of oil. Many ways to get things wrong.

I think that's just a plain old later model Z/ZX FPR for EFI. You can even see the mounting plate, edge-on, hanging on the side. It is odd to have a stroker with a stock AFM on it though, considering the prevailing view that the stock AFM can barely handle a bigger cam. It looks like a stock engine except for the fuel rail. Who built it, where'd you get it?

Look through here - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/93-megasquirt/ for EDIS. Notice though, that you'll need an aftermarket EMS, like Megasquirt, to trigger it. What might work better for you is a Pertronix unit, or a 280Z distributor with a separate GM HEI module, or a 280Zx distributor with a built-in E12-80 ignition module.

Saw this ad this morning, thought it was amusing - http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/2966182616.html Text - 1976 280z Lots Of Custom *** MUST SEE*** - $1200 (PDX) Date: 2012-04-18, 4:57PM PDT Reply to: 7mxvh-2966182616@sale.craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?] Im selling my almost done project car due to a cross country move. Its a 1976 280Z with a 2.8 fuel injected straight 6 swap. Had to trunk mount the battery because the hood no longer fit. The 2.8 is built to over 200 horse and believe me you can tell. Ive added a posi in the rear which means that i had to trunk mount the fuel cell as well ( no room after posi install)..Has a 4 speed with a short shifer for awesome shifting...new clutch,coil,cap,rotor...TONS OF AFTER MARKET PARTS....to much to list. this car is really set up for racing and NOT for someone who does not know how to drive....i assume no liability for any damage it may cause to the next owner. Ive lost the title but i do have a DMZ title transfer paper that has been signed off by the registered and legal owner so its ready to be in your name. I think the airflow sensor got a little moist and am working on that now....this thing sounds like a NASCAR car and has flow master under it. Ive literally passed people in 2nd gear at 50 completly sideways...( thank u posi )...lol. If you want a really cool car that will scare your friends and you if your not careful...this is the one. Also car has good tags and fairly new tires. First $1200 gets it......wont last at this price Email me and LEAVE A NUMBER for me to call you back at.....thanks.

Looks like the 4 bolt turbo CV shafts.

Just watched this video and have to say that Good'n'Tight must be a real dumbass. 99 mph down a residential street full of family houses, and posts a video of his ignorant idiocy. Cool video! Thanks for sharing! philom5, sorry to dump on your post. Good luck with your project.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm http://xenons30.com/reference.html http://xenons130.com/reference.html

You can get pre-fitted straight lines from a typical auto parts store and bend your own. Measure the length with a piece of string or wire, buy the straight line, and bend it with a tubing bender or build a jig to get the curves right. It's not that hard and you'll have new, unrounded, fittings and a clean, more flexible line than an old used piece.

Pretty sure that they changed over the years. One type does not fit all.

You have a 240Z with an L28ET, why do you have a custom drive shaft? FS5R90A trans? Wondering. And, for the record, what brand of u-joint was used? Damage is always interesting.

Heat. Torch the cast metal of the strut housing, while applying pressure. It makes all the difference.

isolates emchanical partformelectical

See if you can find the number here - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/PowerTrain/DifferentialGear/R200/tabid/1727/Default.aspx Then plug it in to the Search box here - http://courtesyparts.com/ Courtesy takes internet orders also, and are fairly timely if the part is in stock.