NewZed

You're going to have put more effort out than that.

Python is an aftermarket supplier and rebuilder. They might be able to tell you if the 15 means anything - http://www.python-injection.com/index.php

Quoting myself here for a followup - I came across the thread about reusing rocker arms, over on zcar from norm(The 12 sec Dual SU Dude). Interesting stuff, the relevant post is about half way down the page, search "how to resurface rocker arms" to find it. http://www.zcar.com/car_talk_forum/part_3_5_years_drag_racing_trialstriumphs_and_tech_info_822277.msg822277.html#msg822277

I've noticed the same thing about the CSV circuit from 76 to78 ECUs. They changed along the way, but have the same part number. I didn't go as far as you did but assume that they just branched off of another circuit outside the ECU that's on at the same time instead for simplicity, since the current flow is so low and it's only on for a few seconds. How do you know you fried an ECU? What were the signs?

Sounds like poor battery connections. Make sure the wire ends are clean if it has clamp on connectors and clean and tighten the connections at the posts, and the connections at the starter and starter bolt. The high current flow will heat up any corrosion, causing expansion and breaking the flow path. This will only let you get to the "crank like nobodies (sic) business" and "flood itself" stage. But at least you'll be a little closer to getting it running.

On the topic - I notice that 3012 and 3013 have the same body, with the 3013 having the spacer pressed on to the bottom. Without the spacer they look identical. But one is labeled with DF2 and the other with DF3. So are the damping curves different between the two also, or do DF2 and DF3 mean nothing?

I think that he's just looking for a Z or ZX front case to do the 240SX swap. The ZX will work fine, even better than an old 4 speed because the reverse switch is in the right spot. Kind of a shame to waste the good gearing on a late ZX 5 speed though.

2. Don't listen to the person who told you this any more.

That would be a bad connection, not a blown link. A brand new link can still have a bad connection.

Could be something in the tool bin behind the seat. Seriously.

Two of them look non-stock but may be okay, the red one is stock but the insulator has just slipped up. Push it back down and it will look stock again. Check continuity if you want to be sure that they haven't burned.

So it's basically a stock 1982 turbo motor setup. I looked around but can't figure out what a VAC is. Is that the right acronym? With the stock ECCS, isn't static timing set advanced, like 20 degrees, and the ECCS adjusts it when running? Sounds like your ECCS isn't doing its job or is getting the wrong signals. The FSM says that "timing can go wrong if the crank angle sensor mounting position gets out of alignment. When this happens the crank angle sensor must be adjusted". Also odd is that your timing would retard with revving. I thought that would only happen under boost. The backfiring is probably due to incorrect AAC and VCM operation also, if I read the FSM diagram right. One more thing - are you feeding the ECCS and the AFR meter from the same O2 sensor? I don't think that's allowed. I think that a bad O2 sensor can cause a rich mixture also. Anyway, the FSM is full of diagrams and descriptions addressing idle control specifically (there's about 12 things involved just in idle control) along with all of the other devices. Good luck.

Mainly interested 'cause this looks like something I might do. Edited your post for focus. ECCS - is it for a turbo or NA? In the FSM, ECCS and EFI are too different computer systems. You said ECCS efi... RRFPR - is this to take the place of the turbo ECCS? You're running an NA ECCS with a RRFPR? If you have a turbo ECCS why do you need a RRFPR? Are you running NA injectors with a turbo ECCS and an RRFPR? AFM - turbo or NA? For the 1982 ECCS? Injectors - turbo or NA? Narrowband sensor - that's how they work, you're either rich or lean. Timing - the "abyss" is retarded or highly advanced? It starts advanced and retards with revs or vice versa? It starts "off the chart" and comes visible? Not really clear. Real numbers are good also, e.g. sits at 20 degrees then goes to 40... Just trying to figure out what you have and what's going on. Some of my questions might be obvious (for example the ECCS might be turbo only in 1982). Looks interesting.

I measured 2.3 kOhms. But I need to keep mine.

I think that I've also used a piece of duct tape. It worked better if I recall (I took the cap off eventually, it was a poor installation anyway). Tear a piece lengthwise for easier handling and put it over the lip that catches. Don't press it on to the dash vinyl too hard or it might peel some chunks off when you remove it. Edit - if I had a cap on now and had to try again, I'd probably just use a few pieces of paper, rolled in to a cone. Thin, with a good balance of rigidity and flexibility. Plus you can stack them up to make them stiffer. Just brainstorming...

That was close, had to wait until 0.40 for the obligatory shoe shot. I was worried it wasn't going to happen. Sounds good.

Just a follow-up for anyone interested - the numbers inthe FSMs don't seem to make sense for how the cars sit, by the year. The early 280Zs I've seen tend to sit lower than the later 77 and 78 Zs. But the spring rates for the early Zs are quite a bit higher for the same dimension spring. I think that means the early ones should sit higher than the late ones. Maybe I'm missing something or maybe the number are wrong. Seems odd. Not sure why WYSIWIG doesn't work, the format looks great in the editor. 1975 1976 1977 1978 5022 Front rate 103 103 103 103 185 coils 9.5 9.5 9.5 9.5 8 length 16" 16" 16" 16" 11.25" Rear rate 197 197 127 127 200 coils 8.5 8.5 8.5 8.5 9 length 15.4" 15.4" 15.4" 15.4" 12"

The condenser/capacitor does not allow current flow through it. It absorbs and releases electrical pulses, but is still insulates positive from negative. When you connected the two wires you created a direct short, that's why the wire started smoking. You may have gotten away with it, but won't know unless you measure voltage on that wire or use a test light on it. You'll be way ahead if you just measure voltage and resistance on the ignition components to make sure that they are right. If everything's right, but it still won't start then you can look elsewhere for the source of the no-start problem. The capacitor shouldn't be necessary for the engine to run, but it does serve a purpose in the long term. If you don't have a meter, at least do the basic tests of confirming spark and fuel (injectors working).

Yes, that's what I was leading to. Just pointing out that there might still be a problem.

Thanks! One good story and no bad ones is enough for me. Next rain-break.

I stopped watching your video when I saw that it was six minutes long and you started talking about your house. Words are good. Did your fuel pump stop working? Don't forget the FSM. It's more specific to your car than the EFI bible.

Don't get fooled thinking that red is positive and black is negative. Make sure. And find out why it melted, first.

Still unclear how your rev needle can jump about with a manual transmission without the car's speed jumping about also. May be an unrelated symptom of some other problem. Good luck with it.

I have some Tokico 5022 springs I'd like to install but don't have a full set of Tokico struts to go with (HPs, 3012 and 3013, not Illuminas). In the meantime, I have KYB GR-2/Excel-G struts. Will the higher spring rates overpower the KYBs or will they work "OK" until I get the rest of the Tokicos? I've read that KYB recommends against using them with lowering springs, but not really sure why. Any comments, from experience or theory, appreciated. It's for street driving, lots of country roads, not much city.

Did you remove the calipers during the repaint?