NewZed

I think that's just a plain old later model Z/ZX FPR for EFI. You can even see the mounting plate, edge-on, hanging on the side. It is odd to have a stroker with a stock AFM on it though, considering the prevailing view that the stock AFM can barely handle a bigger cam. It looks like a stock engine except for the fuel rail. Who built it, where'd you get it?

Look through here - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/93-megasquirt/ for EDIS. Notice though, that you'll need an aftermarket EMS, like Megasquirt, to trigger it. What might work better for you is a Pertronix unit, or a 280Z distributor with a separate GM HEI module, or a 280Zx distributor with a built-in E12-80 ignition module.

Saw this ad this morning, thought it was amusing - http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/2966182616.html Text - 1976 280z Lots Of Custom *** MUST SEE*** - $1200 (PDX) Date: 2012-04-18, 4:57PM PDT Reply to: 7mxvh-2966182616@sale.craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?] Im selling my almost done project car due to a cross country move. Its a 1976 280Z with a 2.8 fuel injected straight 6 swap. Had to trunk mount the battery because the hood no longer fit. The 2.8 is built to over 200 horse and believe me you can tell. Ive added a posi in the rear which means that i had to trunk mount the fuel cell as well ( no room after posi install)..Has a 4 speed with a short shifer for awesome shifting...new clutch,coil,cap,rotor...TONS OF AFTER MARKET PARTS....to much to list. this car is really set up for racing and NOT for someone who does not know how to drive....i assume no liability for any damage it may cause to the next owner. Ive lost the title but i do have a DMZ title transfer paper that has been signed off by the registered and legal owner so its ready to be in your name. I think the airflow sensor got a little moist and am working on that now....this thing sounds like a NASCAR car and has flow master under it. Ive literally passed people in 2nd gear at 50 completly sideways...( thank u posi )...lol. If you want a really cool car that will scare your friends and you if your not careful...this is the one. Also car has good tags and fairly new tires. First $1200 gets it......wont last at this price Email me and LEAVE A NUMBER for me to call you back at.....thanks.

Looks like the 4 bolt turbo CV shafts.

Just watched this video and have to say that Good'n'Tight must be a real dumbass. 99 mph down a residential street full of family houses, and posts a video of his ignorant idiocy. Cool video! Thanks for sharing! philom5, sorry to dump on your post. Good luck with your project.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm http://xenons30.com/reference.html http://xenons130.com/reference.html

You can get pre-fitted straight lines from a typical auto parts store and bend your own. Measure the length with a piece of string or wire, buy the straight line, and bend it with a tubing bender or build a jig to get the curves right. It's not that hard and you'll have new, unrounded, fittings and a clean, more flexible line than an old used piece.

Pretty sure that they changed over the years. One type does not fit all.

You have a 240Z with an L28ET, why do you have a custom drive shaft? FS5R90A trans? Wondering. And, for the record, what brand of u-joint was used? Damage is always interesting.

Heat. Torch the cast metal of the strut housing, while applying pressure. It makes all the difference.

isolates emchanical partformelectical

See if you can find the number here - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/PowerTrain/DifferentialGear/R200/tabid/1727/Default.aspx Then plug it in to the Search box here - http://courtesyparts.com/ Courtesy takes internet orders also, and are fairly timely if the part is in stock.

Not positive, but I think that if you grind a new hold-down/retainer slot on the other side (180 degrees) at the same depth, your Z speedo gear unit will work.

Describe random. All 6 fire, but not consistently? Or individual injectors fire at different times? How did you test them? All six injectors should squirt at the same time, in three spark intervals.

Sounds like low fuel pressure. Try the milk jug again.

What did you do to the car before you started it? And why was it parked in the barn in the first place? 10 years is a long time.

Here's a "might work" - http://www.egauges.com/vdo_send.asp?Sender=Classic_Tach_Filter&Cart= Of course, it's probably just a resistor...

Isn't that covered in the Jags That Run book? Don't have it myself but I have to assume.

http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/showproduct.php/product/6925/title/280z-nos-front-suspension-crossmember/cat/4 Not me, just came across it...

What brand and model is the replacement tach? I had a Sun tach years ago that was adjustable for 4, 6 and 8 cylinders. Yours might have dip switches, jumpers, or a switch, internal or external. Pretty sure that there are external signal modifiers out there also, for using stock tachs with alternate engines.

You're going to have put more effort out than that.

Python is an aftermarket supplier and rebuilder. They might be able to tell you if the 15 means anything - http://www.python-injection.com/index.php

Quoting myself here for a followup - I came across the thread about reusing rocker arms, over on zcar from norm(The 12 sec Dual SU Dude). Interesting stuff, the relevant post is about half way down the page, search "how to resurface rocker arms" to find it. http://www.zcar.com/car_talk_forum/part_3_5_years_drag_racing_trialstriumphs_and_tech_info_822277.msg822277.html#msg822277

I've noticed the same thing about the CSV circuit from 76 to78 ECUs. They changed along the way, but have the same part number. I didn't go as far as you did but assume that they just branched off of another circuit outside the ECU that's on at the same time instead for simplicity, since the current flow is so low and it's only on for a few seconds. How do you know you fried an ECU? What were the signs?

Sounds like poor battery connections. Make sure the wire ends are clean if it has clamp on connectors and clean and tighten the connections at the posts, and the connections at the starter and starter bolt. The high current flow will heat up any corrosion, causing expansion and breaking the flow path. This will only let you get to the "crank like nobodies (sic) business" and "flood itself" stage. But at least you'll be a little closer to getting it running.