NewZed

There is a lot of misleading information out there. The clutch does not "know" what transmission is attached. Don't worry about that. They're all the same dimensions n the bellhousing and have the same shaft spline count. If you can get a clutch kit that has the throwout bearing sleeve in it you'll be best off. The sleeve/collar has to be the proper one for the pressure plate to give the proper distance for the clutch fork action. This is where most people get screwed up. Buying just a pressure plate, that doesn't work with the sleeve/collar. That web site that's out there with the pictures of the various sleeves by transmission is essentially useless. Don't take that advice. If you're planning to buy a new flywheel the 225mm flywheels are very hard to find. 225 is the coupe flywheel, 240mm is the 2+2 or turbo flywheel. "Stages" will vary with manufacturer.

Read up on the supercharged Xterra and Frontier. Here's a start. 02 - 04. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Xterra "The 3.3L VG33E V6 was upgraded to 180 hp (134 kW) at 4,800 rpm and 202 lb⋅ft (274 N⋅m) at 2,800 rpm, with the 210 hp (157 kW) supercharged VG33ER option carried over from the 2001 Nissan Frontier, producing 246 lb⋅ft (334 N⋅m) of torque for the automatic, and 231 lb⋅ft (313 N⋅m) of torque with 5-speed manual."

The pressure plate must match the throwout bearing sleeve to give ~92mm from the flywheel surface to the ears that the clutch fork sits on. Four speed or five speed doesn't matter at all. The clutch parts can't tell what transmission is being used. Take a look at the parts and you'll see that. Here's some Google stuff. https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS862US862&ei=1whKXvfyCY7y-gSCp7SADg&q=280z+pressure+plate+92mm&oq=280z+pressure+plate+92mm&gs_l=psy-ab.3...200050.201055..201506...0.1..0.63.232.4......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71.ywr3rTDnSOU&ved=0ahUKEwi3upTr0tfnAhUOuZ4KHYITDeAQ4dUDCAs&uact=5

There's a seal on the striker rod that dries up or wears, apparently. Very difficult to get to. If you overfill you probably get more seepage there. Not a huge deal except for the annoyance. Part #22. You'd have to tear the transmission down to fix it. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-control/5-speed/22

Learn what stuff the hoses do. Not kidding. Nissan didn't just add hoses for decoration. It's all described in the FSM.

You'll need new or modified engine management to run bigger injectors, non-stock turbo, bigger TB, etc. Megasquirt or Haltech or one of the programmable Nissan systems. Wasn't sure that you knew that. Many people new to engines think that they can just swap bigger things on and get bigger power.

No turbo yet, big injectors, big TB, worried about breaking the transmission... Could the OP be overlooking the most important part? Possible? Probable? Haven't been around for a while. The site seems different.

Post the part number of the Quaife. It's not possible that it requires equal length shafts. You might have eyeballed it and decided that was the case, or somebody told you that, but that's not how they work.

Any way to get the site to show Topics only with new posts contained under the Topic title. Looking at a half a page of the same Topic because it has the most new posts doesn't work well. The other guys do it that way and it works. Hybridz "Activity" choices are pretty slim.

Kind of looks like a VG30 pattern except for a missing hole or two. This is from the 1995 Pathfinder 71C transmission. They look about right along the top. Clutch and fly wheels interchange to a certain extent from VG to the L series engines.

I built a similar mount in preparation for using a 71C swap in a 280Z. Nissan refers to the transmission mount as the rear engine mount. It's not working alone, it's working in conjunction with the two front mounts, so doesn't really see the motions and loads that you think it might. Forward and backward as you brake and accelerate, and up and down over bumps. But no significant twisting. I cut a slot in a spare mount crossmember and shimmed out the space to move it back and use the original mounting ears. I felt comfortable with it based on the loads it would see in use.

The injectors won't open unless the ignition coil pulse on Pin 1 is there at the ECU. Don't assume that the injectors are bad or some other assumption. Might just be the EFI fusible link. You can't do much on these EFI systems without a meter, except guess. The ECU's do fail, but that's an expensive guess. classiczcars.com has free downloadable service manuals with all of the diagnostic procedures.

I would put the head back on if you have the timing chain tensioner properly locked in to place, and just put some force on it in the normal rotation direction. I had assumed that you would put the head back on before trying to rotate it. You can't turn the crankshaft with the head off because the chain has to move. If you don't have the tensioner locked you won't be able to get the sprocket back on anyway so you'll have to remove the front cover.

Sometimes when you get focused on a problem you spend more time making it happen than figuring out how to make it not happen. I can make my drivetrain clunk if I want to, but I tend to drive it in a way that it doesn't clunk. The Z drivetrains are kind of sloppy. Six u-joints, a loose tolerance differential and old worn out transmissions. Once you've minimized all of the slop all that's left is to smooth out your driving skills.

The pictures show a pretty normal old "survivor" car. Dents from speed bumps, light rust. No red flags at all. It even still has the damper weight on the diff mount crossmember so nobody's been modifying it. But for $10,000 you could probably find a nicer 1977 280Z. I don't see anywhere near $10,000 of rust repairs on that car though. Value depends on plans.

Don't overlook the other mounts. I've had a couple of broken motor mounts in other, bigger, cars and that's what you get, one thunk as the motor sets back down. Feels like you ran over something. The transmission mount is designed just like the diff mount, and the mounting member itself has rubber on the ends. All could cause problems.

It's on the bottom of the page also.

Zhoob's link will have the wire colors. If you want to be sure. I think that the inhibitor switch is at the shift lever or on the transmission. A neutral switch. The diagram might show location, or the transmission chapter might show the switch.

Do a Google search and it looks like the finned one. The flat one has a different part number also. https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/finned-r200-diff-cover.12685/ Turbo Z's - https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-cover-rear-fina~38351-n3110.html Flat one - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/differential-gear/r200

I would put it all back together and drive it.

Is it an automatic? The circled "A" is the circuit for that. There's an inhibitor relay.

Sounds like your timing is off, a light would show that, or you have your plug wires to the wrong cylinders, or you have some crossfire between wires. You still haven't really told anything about the engine management. You can't run EDIS using the stock 280Z EFI system. Actually, maybe you could but you would be stuck in "limp home mode", at 10 degrees. Assuming that you set it up right. Again, a timing light would show it. Good luck with your mystery project.

Sometimes people discover that the rear caliper bleed screw hole is not actually the highest point when installed after these conversions, because they're not designed for Z cars. It's close but still has a spot for an air bubble. They have to unbolt the caliper and rotate it so that the channel to the bleed port really is the highest point. They bleed the brakes with the caliper loose, then rotate it back and bolt it down when they're done. Be the bubble.

I am aware, just wasn't sure you were. 153624 >> 1-6, 5-2, 3-4 looks right for pairing. Have you checked timing with a light? You haven't really confirmed what you know besides the parts that you bolted on. "I bolted these parts on, it doesn't work." A common cause for backfiring through the carbs (some people call it front-firing, since backfire usually means at the exhaust pipe) is a bad cam lobe. Your problem might be mechanical not electrical. Have you checked valve lash and cam shaft quality? The short direct answer to your question in the first post is "yes, it's described in two of the threads in the link I provided". Good luck.

What engine management system are you using? EDIS isn't coil on plug, it's coil packs, with one coil firing two cylinders. Not really clear what you're describing. Coil on plug is typically one power transistor per coil managed by the EMS, EDIS has it own separate control system. There's a couple of EDIS threads in this topic - https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/93-megasquirt/