NewZed

You were pretty specific with the years. If you know what you're doing why do you keep asking questions? You said that you've used MFactory diffs before so it sounds like you've been in to one. You can't have both. You can't be the guy that knows and the guy that asks questions at the same time.

The ring gear bolts and holes might be a problem. Nissan went to a 12 87-88 300ZX would also be known as a Z31. You're asking if a Z31 diff will fit in a Z31 case.

Not possible. The 180 and 200 are the diameter of the ring gear in millimeters. The R200 differential is bigger.

Here's what seems to be a straightforward option, if you want to install an LSD in an open long-nose R200. If you don't buy Nelsonian's.

Engine RPM are controlled by air flow. If you cut off all of the air the engine must die. Close off your idle speed screw until the idle speed drops. If you close it all the way and the engine keeps running you have an air leak in your intake system. You should verify that before getting carried away with other stuff.

The 280ZX had the R200 as a standard diff. So any 280ZX axles would work. They would clip and bolt right in. The viscous Z32 probably has the 5 or 6 hole flange so would need an adapter or custom axles. Same with the 350Z diff. The long nose R200 with the helical would be the simplest, probably cheapest option. All bolt-in once you find the axles. You could use ZX u-joint halfshafts or CV axles. They u-joint axles are very strong but the CV shafts appear to be a bit stronger. More ZX's came with u-joint axles than CV's, I think. Even the diff mount in the car is designed to be multipurpose, you just flip it over. Check the ZX FSM chapters to see the axles and the diff mount options.

There is a lot of misleading information out there. The clutch does not "know" what transmission is attached. Don't worry about that. They're all the same dimensions n the bellhousing and have the same shaft spline count. If you can get a clutch kit that has the throwout bearing sleeve in it you'll be best off. The sleeve/collar has to be the proper one for the pressure plate to give the proper distance for the clutch fork action. This is where most people get screwed up. Buying just a pressure plate, that doesn't work with the sleeve/collar. That web site that's out there with the pictures of the various sleeves by transmission is essentially useless. Don't take that advice. If you're planning to buy a new flywheel the 225mm flywheels are very hard to find. 225 is the coupe flywheel, 240mm is the 2+2 or turbo flywheel. "Stages" will vary with manufacturer.

Read up on the supercharged Xterra and Frontier. Here's a start. 02 - 04. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Xterra "The 3.3L VG33E V6 was upgraded to 180 hp (134 kW) at 4,800 rpm and 202 lb⋅ft (274 N⋅m) at 2,800 rpm, with the 210 hp (157 kW) supercharged VG33ER option carried over from the 2001 Nissan Frontier, producing 246 lb⋅ft (334 N⋅m) of torque for the automatic, and 231 lb⋅ft (313 N⋅m) of torque with 5-speed manual."

The pressure plate must match the throwout bearing sleeve to give ~92mm from the flywheel surface to the ears that the clutch fork sits on. Four speed or five speed doesn't matter at all. The clutch parts can't tell what transmission is being used. Take a look at the parts and you'll see that. Here's some Google stuff. https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS862US862&ei=1whKXvfyCY7y-gSCp7SADg&q=280z+pressure+plate+92mm&oq=280z+pressure+plate+92mm&gs_l=psy-ab.3...200050.201055..201506...0.1..0.63.232.4......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71.ywr3rTDnSOU&ved=0ahUKEwi3upTr0tfnAhUOuZ4KHYITDeAQ4dUDCAs&uact=5

There's a seal on the striker rod that dries up or wears, apparently. Very difficult to get to. If you overfill you probably get more seepage there. Not a huge deal except for the annoyance. Part #22. You'd have to tear the transmission down to fix it. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-control/5-speed/22

Learn what stuff the hoses do. Not kidding. Nissan didn't just add hoses for decoration. It's all described in the FSM.

You'll need new or modified engine management to run bigger injectors, non-stock turbo, bigger TB, etc. Megasquirt or Haltech or one of the programmable Nissan systems. Wasn't sure that you knew that. Many people new to engines think that they can just swap bigger things on and get bigger power.

No turbo yet, big injectors, big TB, worried about breaking the transmission... Could the OP be overlooking the most important part? Possible? Probable? Haven't been around for a while. The site seems different.

Post the part number of the Quaife. It's not possible that it requires equal length shafts. You might have eyeballed it and decided that was the case, or somebody told you that, but that's not how they work.

Any way to get the site to show Topics only with new posts contained under the Topic title. Looking at a half a page of the same Topic because it has the most new posts doesn't work well. The other guys do it that way and it works. Hybridz "Activity" choices are pretty slim.

Kind of looks like a VG30 pattern except for a missing hole or two. This is from the 1995 Pathfinder 71C transmission. They look about right along the top. Clutch and fly wheels interchange to a certain extent from VG to the L series engines.

I built a similar mount in preparation for using a 71C swap in a 280Z. Nissan refers to the transmission mount as the rear engine mount. It's not working alone, it's working in conjunction with the two front mounts, so doesn't really see the motions and loads that you think it might. Forward and backward as you brake and accelerate, and up and down over bumps. But no significant twisting. I cut a slot in a spare mount crossmember and shimmed out the space to move it back and use the original mounting ears. I felt comfortable with it based on the loads it would see in use.

The injectors won't open unless the ignition coil pulse on Pin 1 is there at the ECU. Don't assume that the injectors are bad or some other assumption. Might just be the EFI fusible link. You can't do much on these EFI systems without a meter, except guess. The ECU's do fail, but that's an expensive guess. classiczcars.com has free downloadable service manuals with all of the diagnostic procedures.

I would put the head back on if you have the timing chain tensioner properly locked in to place, and just put some force on it in the normal rotation direction. I had assumed that you would put the head back on before trying to rotate it. You can't turn the crankshaft with the head off because the chain has to move. If you don't have the tensioner locked you won't be able to get the sprocket back on anyway so you'll have to remove the front cover.

Sometimes when you get focused on a problem you spend more time making it happen than figuring out how to make it not happen. I can make my drivetrain clunk if I want to, but I tend to drive it in a way that it doesn't clunk. The Z drivetrains are kind of sloppy. Six u-joints, a loose tolerance differential and old worn out transmissions. Once you've minimized all of the slop all that's left is to smooth out your driving skills.

The pictures show a pretty normal old "survivor" car. Dents from speed bumps, light rust. No red flags at all. It even still has the damper weight on the diff mount crossmember so nobody's been modifying it. But for $10,000 you could probably find a nicer 1977 280Z. I don't see anywhere near $10,000 of rust repairs on that car though. Value depends on plans.

Don't overlook the other mounts. I've had a couple of broken motor mounts in other, bigger, cars and that's what you get, one thunk as the motor sets back down. Feels like you ran over something. The transmission mount is designed just like the diff mount, and the mounting member itself has rubber on the ends. All could cause problems.

It's on the bottom of the page also.

Zhoob's link will have the wire colors. If you want to be sure. I think that the inhibitor switch is at the shift lever or on the transmission. A neutral switch. The diagram might show location, or the transmission chapter might show the switch.

Do a Google search and it looks like the finned one. The flat one has a different part number also. https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/finned-r200-diff-cover.12685/ Turbo Z's - https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-cover-rear-fina~38351-n3110.html Flat one - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/differential-gear/r200