NewZed

You must be thinking of total cylinder volume at the bottom of the stroke. The combustion chamber is not included in displacement. Because "displacement" is, literally, the volume that is displaced, or moved, by the piston during its stroke. You could call it "swept volume", for example. Compression ratio is the displacement volume divided by the combustion chamber volume. All of that displaced material is packed in to the tiny combustion chamber.

The old cam probably flattened a lobe so it was repaired with that one because they had it in stock. Odd timing coincidence...

People have had problems with broken solder joints in the ECU that were fixed temporarily by tapping or banging on the ECU with their hand or foot. Easy to try, when it cuts out reach down and start banging and see if it restarts. Opening and closing the door or the hood might have the same effect, explaining why it restarts for no apparent reason. If that has an effect at least you'll know what to look at. Apparently the solder joints at the plug connection are the bad ones. Some people have success reflowing them all. The loose key is very common. Almost everybody can pull the key out of the switch at any position. That's not an electrical problem though.

So it runs now, or it hasn't started since it died? Can't tell if "ran" means just the fuel pump or the engine. The ballast has resistance so coil + ballast would be the two resistances combined. The coil reading is high though. Just get a stock aftermarket coil from Autozone. Most fo the name brand coils are plain old coils with colored labels. Check the resistance and wiring in the distributor also. Sometimes the breaker plate moving can short the wires to the pickup coil. Probably a good time to just go through all of the electrical specs and adjustments, like the air gap. Sudden dying can be the ECU also. That's a hard one to diagnose.

There are other ways for water or coolant to get in to the engine. Have you checked you oil lately? If water is leaking in to a cylinder some will leak past the rings. See if your oil level has increased. If it has there is probably water at the bottom of the oil pan, if it hasn't already blended in to the oil. If the smoke is gone after 2-3 minutes, does the smoke really matter much? Places for coolant to get in are cracks in the cylinder head or erosion of the cooling passages in the timing chain cover. Also, the bolts to the thermostat housing pass in to the timing chain cover. A crack in the cylinder head can let coolant directly in to the intake system, in to ne of the runners. From there it might drain back to the plenum where it can get in to all of the cylinders. You might pull your spark plugs and see if one is abnormally clean. Water in the cylinders will clean them up. Might help you narrow the focus. If there's no water in the oil and the engine isn't locking, hydraulically, you won't do any damage by letting it burn off whatever gets in there. People actually build systems to squirt water in to their engines. Some people pour water in through the carburetors to clean carbon out.

It's warmed up when the temperature gauge says so. I'm not sure how your engine has been modified. Sounds like you have an electric fan? Run by a thermo-switch? A stock L28 has a fan clutch. the fan can only go as fast as the engine does. A head gasket will blow exhaust in to the cooling system when the engine is running. Is it possible that you punched a hole in to your intake system or cracked something and your "fix" is allowing coolant in to the intake? Is this s turbo engine? Does the white smoke smell like antifreeze? All engines have moisture from the exhaust when cold. It's a byproduct of combustion. Just need more details about your setup. Not enough here to say what's happening.

Did you let it get fully warmed up? Won't hurt to run it if it is a head gasket problem. Make sure first. Get it to full temperature and let it run for a while. You can't overfill the cooling system. It will release through the radiator cap if pressure gets too high.

Self-adjusting just means that the hydraulic cylinder will pull enough fluid in on its backstroke to get a full stroke on the next pedal press. So, even if you adjust the rod at the slave cylinder it will still push the same distance. The ratio of your clutch pedal would need to be like that of a Supra if you wanted to compare those parts. But, it might be easier to just find a Supra manual and see what the slave cylinder stroke is supposed to be. Then do the math on your car to see what slave cylinder stroke you'll get with a 7/8" master. There's no easy way without digging in to the math, unless you just put it together and measure what happens. There is stuff in the manuals. Here are some examples, from the 78 280Z FSM. The pedal picture is probably to scale so you could take measurements and compare to a supra to see if you need the 7/8" cylinder. If the pedals are the same, Z to Supra, then you probably want a 5/8" master. I'd say, odds are good that you should run the Z parts on the Supra clutch. They're both Japanese sports cars. Put the 5/8" master on and forge ahead.

Hydraulic clutches are essentially self-adjusting. The throw will depend on cylinder travel. So it's your clutch pedal throw that will determine the hydraulic piston travel. Anyway, it's not adjustable. It's designed in to the system. And, the transmission has nothing to do with clutch fork or clutch hydraulics. The only thing the transmission does is provided a spot to hang the slave cylinder. Describe your other parts. Engine, clutch, slave cylinder, etc. You've probably done it somewhere else but it's not in this post.

Did you clean and/or rebuild the carbs? After ten years they're probably all gummed up inside.

Just curious, but you're saying that you couldn't get the idle down with that IACV? You actually tried it, or you just did a calculation? Seems goofy to work around a sticky throttle body blade problem, by changing IACV's. Doesn't it? Can't you do more work on the TB's? And, more talking about stuff I don't know well, but will your single port evenly distribute the air to the cylinders? Using an IACV for idle control seems like a great idea. Just wondering about the final execution.

It will be just like the other guys. Wouldn't be a surprise if they had other models with flats. You're just using it for an unintended application.

You could grind a flat on the shaft also.

He's a member. @zcardepot.com https://forums.hybridz.org/profile/50800-zcardepotcom/

Can't really say. Most of us have spent time under our cars twisting the flanges and the driveshaft and lifting at various points. If you get the halfshafts off lay under the diff and grab both flanges. Twist them back and forth and see if you have play. Do the same with the driveshaft and a halfshaft. Most of these problems end with an ahah moment where you find the moving part. But there are a lot possible clunk sources. I just solved a clunk problem in my truck. It was a large piece of metal, a shackle, that I had stored behind the seat. Every time I went over a left hand turn with a bump it sounded like I had a loose shock absorber or a broken spring. I spent weeks looking underneath for the loose part but the problem was inside. I just had to wrap the chunk of steel in a towel to fix the problem. People with Z's often find their clunk in the storage bins behind the seats.

If they are seated you won't be able to get them out without a prying tool. If they're not seated they'll pull out by hand. Did you use/place/set the circlip in the LSD? It fits down the hole and locks in to the groove on the axle when you tap the axle in to the hole.

They are all "coil overs". When people say "coliover" they typically really mean "adjustable height" coilovers. That is all anybody gets with "coilovers". Various manufacturers of "coilovers" offer different srpings and shocks. But they are all "coil overs". If you can't find the right combination of shock and spring then one of the various "coilover" options might be worthwhile. But, once a person understands that it's just a spring (AKA coil) over a strut/shock, many possibilities open up. Without a description of the spring and shock, coilover doesn't actually have any useful information, as a word. Except that ride height is probably adjustable. And preload, which is a factor in ride quality.

People have found clunks from odd things like loose studs in the diff cover. And when you apply power the diff twists and the mustache bar ends, out away from the diff, can move if they're loose. Other stuff to check.

Not clear if you're getting clunks when you shift gears or when you apply power or just when the transmission is turning. Add some detail to what the "clunk" is and when, exactly, it happens. The simple test is to grab each side of the possible clunking parts and look for play. The wheel flanges, the pinion shaft and output flanges, the driveshaft in the transmission, etc. If you apply the parking brake you can load the drivetrain with the wheels hanging. Might make any play easier to see. I'd still move the stands under the control arms.

Were the jack stands under the suspension or under the body? Were the wheels hanging? Might be that you just had too much angle on the u-joints and they were binding. Put the stands under the control arms so the suspensions is at ride height distance and try again.

I've never used any of these. I do know that the Technoversion guy's business has been around for years and people seem happy with his products. Read the instructions and you'll see that they're well-written, and he guarantees the product if you follow the instructions. That's all I know. Good luck. https://technoversions.com/TachMatchTM03InstructionManual.pdf?

This might work, below. You'll still need to understand your wiring and which wires do what. But even if you get it to stay running it will probably read wrong, 8 cylinders instead of 6.. https://technoversions.com/

Do you have a meter or test light? If not, you should get one. It's a basic, for the car also, not just the engine swap. You'll need one. A meter, preferably. If it's a full-size HEI distributor the coil will be under the distributor cap. You'll want to confirm power to the coil, probably through the distributor's wiring connection. A "true" HEI distributor is all self-contained, the coil and ignition module are all under the cap. Anyway, you need a meter really, just to get started. You can waste a lot of time without one.

Just to confirm, you have used a meter back to the battery negative cable to confirm a good ground. You never know. But the meter shows. Also, you can check coil performance on your own by "being" the ignitor. Disconnect the ignitor so you don't damage it and use a ground wire on the coil negative to make break the coil circuit, with coil power on, and create a spark. That's all the ignitor does. Always helps to break your problem into pieces.

@SteveJ260Z knows ammeters