NewZed

Here's some stuff. https://forums.hybridz.org/search/?&q=92mm&search_and_or=or&sortby=relevancy

Read these instructions, linked below, and do the voltage test. With no jumper wire you should not see the voltage drop that you are seeing. The fact that you are measuring 10 volts kind of implies that your module, or the wiring, is shorted out and passing current when it should not. The reason you get a spark when you turn the key off is because you are "breaking' the spark circuit. It is already "made" because of the bad module or short circuit. That is how spark is made - the circuit through the coil is made, then the spark happens when it is broken. Make, break, make, break... The part number might not be right but the instructions are all the same, for the first series of Pertronix Ignitors. The later modules have a safety feature that switches off the current so the module doesn't burn up. Have you ever left the key On for an extended period? https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/pnx-1281.pdf "4.Turn the ignition switch to the “on” position and note voltage reading on the voltmeter. Quickly read the voltage and turn ignition “OFF”. Leaving ignition “ON” for an extended period could result in permanent damage to the Ignitor."

The relationship to the clutch fork pivot ball in the transmission case is what matters. There are several different /Nissan throwout bearing sleeve/collar heights to match the several different pressure plate heights. You'll want to compare where the Chevy flywheel surface sits, compared to where the Nissan flywheel did, in relation to the mating surface of the engine and transmission. Lots of ways to mess it up. The slave cylinder, fork, and pivot ball relationship determines where end of the fork starts its travel.

If you want to save some money you might find that a 2+2 propeller shaft from a 300ZX can be cut down. Instead of having a custom shaft made. Just a thought. Propeller shaft dimensions are in the FSM's or available through Nissan.

You could take some measurements. If you don't have the short nose ask someone out here to measure a short nose. If you're buying a short nose mounting kit the kit maker should have the number for you. If you're building your own mounts, make sure to read all of the threads about problems with mounting the short nose. They tend to tear out the old mounting holes due to the increased leverage. Lengthening the dirveshaft is the least of your potential problems.

Looks decent.

My advice would be to not worry about it. You might check the other chapters in the FSM, they have smaller wiring diagrams for each component. And the 1975 FSM is the first EFI FSM. I've found that it has a lot of errors in it. Use a meter and see what's what.

Adjusting the spring tensions won't help with idle gases problems. More AFM's get screwed up by fiddling with the spring tension. The atlanticz page is meant for fixing those problems, fixing screwed up AFM's, not "tuning".

Most AFM's are rebuilt by FuelInjectionCorp. I could run the idle air screw all the way out and it would still run rich. Other people have reported the same problem. I had to install an adjustable FPR to lower the fuel pressure to get it to pass if I did not swap an old Nissan AFM in. I think that FuelInjectionCorp just didn't do a good job of matching specs. to Nissan's AFM. https://fuelinjectioncorp.com/

Where did you buy the AFM? I bought a new one and it was rich. I had to go back to an old factory unit to pass emissions.

Bleed the front brakes. They can have a big bubble that will take up most of the MC movement. Have you tried pumping the brake pedal? That will compress any air bubbles and create more pressure. If you can get the wheel cylinder to work by pumping that means you have trapped air in the system. And, the MC might have a blown seal. It will push fluid with no back pressure but not when it has to work. There are three seals in the MC, one each to make pressure and another to stop leaks. So, sometimes you can't really tell when the MC is bad.

You're back! There was a Tony D drive-by about a week ago...

Does the brake pedal move? Does it drop to the floor or does it stay high and firm? What does "cleaned out" mean? Did you disassemble them? They're easy to take apart. Pull the pistons out, if you can. Odds are that they're rusted in place.

A set of KYB shocks would be a good inexpensive start on the suspension. If you want to be economical and like the height the car sits at now. Describe what your plans are and you'll get more ideas. There are much more expensive things that you can do to it.

I thought you had the Nissan master working the BMW slave. One way to check for air or leaking seals is to compare the distance the master cylinder rod travels to the distance the slave rod moves. If the cylinders are the same the distance should be the same, of course. Then you can also watch the fork to see if it is getting full movement. If everything is maxed out then maybe the Nissan clutch pedal just doesn't more the master rod as far. So a bigger master would make sense then. Just thinking. I had a slave cylinder that only moved about 1/2 the distance it should. It was leaking in to the boot. If a person just eyeballed it they'd see it move but it wasn't moving far enough. Had to measure.

Curious if you know the diameter of the BMW slave cylinder. There have been quite a few questions lately about making the clutch work after an engine swap. Seems like the manufacturers would just match the cylinders and do the geometry at the pedal and fork to get travel, but who knows.

He said problem solved. He's on to the next one...

It's a well-worn path. Good luck.

This is the important part. If the pressure plate is the same type as the Z engine, and the fork ratio is the same, there's no good reason to change any of the hydraulics. Slave stroke calculated with fork ratio gives throwout sleeve travel. That's what disengages the clutch.

Got a tape measure? Take some measurements.

Try pumping the pedal. If you have air in the lines pumping will push more fluid in and compress it, causing the pistons to move. It will be a clue. And if one side(end) has air it will affect the other side. So you can't just ignore the fronts and expect the backs to be good. You might want to try a power bleeder, to push or pull fluid through. Are the bleed valve passages at the very top of the caliper piston bores? Sometimes they run a diagonal channel from the bleed screw so you have to look at the casting to see where the actual passage is drilled. It needs to be at the top where the air bubble sits. Pretty common for some of the conversion to have bleed valve orientation problems. You might have to pull a bolt and twist the caliper just for bleeding.

Describe the engine. Post pictures. Start a new thread. This one is very old and looks to be about Chevy's.

I said "dog bones" in my post, but I should have said "drop downs" or hangers. The two parts the "dog bone" attaches to to create a square support structure, that the rear of the control arms seat in.. It's not clear from their drawing if they got rid or that or not. The two studs for the mustache bar weren't meant to handle the lateral forces that they would see if those guys are really using them as the attachment points for the cradle. Those two studs just direct the mustache bar forces and have to handle the inertia of the eighty pound diff on corner. Full disclosure, I'm just here for the puzzle. Some pictures of the parts actually in a car would tell a lot. Poor marketing.

It looks like they're also using the mustache bar hanger bolts as the mounting points for the back of the control arm hardware. They got rid of the "dog bones". Definitely some odd engineering going on.

But, with the picture it is possible to guess at what you meant. There is a solid metal path from the diff's back mount up to the cradle's front mount. The bushings are basically useless, except for allowing for manufacturing error. Loose tolerance. As the diff nose comes up it will lever those back tabs because the diff's front bushings will let the nose move up. That's as the drawing shows. The drawing might be wrong. The factory Z control arm mounts have bushings at the front. Maybe they forgot to put them in the drawing. That would make the cradle fully floating, in rubber bushings. It still leaves the diff housing half solid and half bushed, as you said. It lets the diff apply bending forces to the cradle alone. So, it is kind of a goofy design. Well made though. They need to either make the diff fully bushed or the cradle. The drawing shows that they went halfway on each. Too bad they don't have some pictures of the parts in a car. Weird.