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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. NewZed
    I don't know California but don't they keep a record of cars with past violations? Not to be a buzz-kill, but why would you let a car sit unregistered for three years? Trust but verify...
  2. NewZed
    Better check the emissions rules in EDH. Many people have trouble getting past the CARB. And there will be fees probably if it was not registered for three years. Might be a reason that it wasn't registered. You might buy it but not be able to drive it legally.
  3. NewZed
    I would find a level surface, and some good reference points on the car body, and see if the car is tilted or the flares are one the car incorrectly. Or if something else is going on. Reference points might be something obvious like the back bumper, or the bumper mounting points. Or the inner wheel well arches. Or the sub-frame mounting points for the suspension. If the car boy is tilted,then adjusting the suspension is reasonable,and will bring the body back in to line. If the flares are off, then adjusting the car body will introduce other weirdness, like a tilted look from the back.
  4. NewZed
    My 76 had about 1/2" smaller gap on the passenger side. Not sure why. Tokico lowering springs on the back, cut Nissan springs up front. The front was the same on both sides. I shimmed the strut studs to get rid of most of it. People should say less or more, by side, instead of different. We might see something consistent.
  5. NewZed
    Not much.
  6. NewZed
    O2 correction is normally off or on. That's how it works. It swings back and forth, over the stoichiometric point. Again, this is a basic.
  7. NewZed
    You're getting coolant switches confused with the single coolant sensor. The problem with internet advice is you can't tell if it's right. That's why I suggest learning how your system, and the factory system, works instead of just doing odds and ends. You have to know at least the basics. So that when the problem is still there after fixing the exhaust leak you'll have a path forward.
  8. NewZed
    I don't know how zcardepot designed their system. Did they have you install a new sensor? Make sure that it has resistance that varies with temperature. That's how you would troubleshoot your Nissan system. Check at the ECU connector. Do you have an "app" to see what the ECU sees? A dashboard? If you have tuning capabilities then you should be able to check your inputs by computer/phone. Should be fun...
  9. NewZed
    Without the CHTS the engine will think it's arctic cold and add lots of extra fuel. It's also called the coolant temperature sensor. If you start adjusting the wrong parameters to make up for incorrect connections you can create a big mess. You need the CHTS. Sounds like you're making progress thouigh.
  10. NewZed
    The MAP sensor reading should go up and down with throttle opening. It's like intake vacuum. But absolute. If it stays constant there's a problem. You can read some of the Megasquirt threads to learn concepts. I think that FAST is supposed to "self-adjust" but it will only do that if the inputs are correct. It's a good learning opportunity. Good luck. And you need the cylinder head temperature sensor. It measure engine temperature. Without it you'll run really rich or really lean. Both bad.
  11. NewZed
    https://zcardepot.com/products/fuel-injection-retrofit-kit-fast-efi-280z-280zx
  12. NewZed
    I'm going to guess that the reason it doesn't respond to throttle is because you have a MAP sensor issue. The MAP sensor tells the ECU how much air is entering the manifold.
  13. NewZed
    Surprising that it even started. What was wrong with the 1983 EFI computer? Why did you decide to buy the FAST EFI kit? Might be a clue. You showed a picture of your cylinder head temperature sensor, not the oil pressure sensor. And there are two connections on the ZX distributor, one for timing retard when cold and one that controls the coil. Luckily, apparently, you disconnected the one that controls retard when cold. Your coil control wires are still connected. Timing probably still advances when you rev the engine, because that is mechanical and vacuum. There is really no such thing as a plug and play engine control system. You have to know some basics of how your engine control system works, even if you don't know how to tune. You'll have to read through the instructions and the 1983 FSM and compare parts, or find somebody that knows ZX's, I think. https://www.fuelairspark.com/software-downloads
  14. NewZed
    It was this ^^^^ I did not misinterpret, you miswrote. Good luck. What you're trying to do is not really complicated. Just buy a diff and make it work.
  15. NewZed
    Have you read through this thread yet -
  16. NewZed
    You were pretty specific with the years. If you know what you're doing why do you keep asking questions? You said that you've used MFactory diffs before so it sounds like you've been in to one. You can't have both. You can't be the guy that knows and the guy that asks questions at the same time.
  17. NewZed
    The ring gear bolts and holes might be a problem. Nissan went to a 12 87-88 300ZX would also be known as a Z31. You're asking if a Z31 diff will fit in a Z31 case.
  18. NewZed
    Not possible. The 180 and 200 are the diameter of the ring gear in millimeters. The R200 differential is bigger.
  19. NewZed
    Here's what seems to be a straightforward option, if you want to install an LSD in an open long-nose R200. If you don't buy Nelsonian's.
  20. NewZed
    Engine RPM are controlled by air flow. If you cut off all of the air the engine must die. Close off your idle speed screw until the idle speed drops. If you close it all the way and the engine keeps running you have an air leak in your intake system. You should verify that before getting carried away with other stuff.
  21. NewZed
    The 280ZX had the R200 as a standard diff. So any 280ZX axles would work. They would clip and bolt right in. The viscous Z32 probably has the 5 or 6 hole flange so would need an adapter or custom axles. Same with the 350Z diff. The long nose R200 with the helical would be the simplest, probably cheapest option. All bolt-in once you find the axles. You could use ZX u-joint halfshafts or CV axles. They u-joint axles are very strong but the CV shafts appear to be a bit stronger. More ZX's came with u-joint axles than CV's, I think. Even the diff mount in the car is designed to be multipurpose, you just flip it over. Check the ZX FSM chapters to see the axles and the diff mount options.
  22. NewZed
    There is a lot of misleading information out there. The clutch does not "know" what transmission is attached. Don't worry about that. They're all the same dimensions n the bellhousing and have the same shaft spline count. If you can get a clutch kit that has the throwout bearing sleeve in it you'll be best off. The sleeve/collar has to be the proper one for the pressure plate to give the proper distance for the clutch fork action. This is where most people get screwed up. Buying just a pressure plate, that doesn't work with the sleeve/collar. That web site that's out there with the pictures of the various sleeves by transmission is essentially useless. Don't take that advice. If you're planning to buy a new flywheel the 225mm flywheels are very hard to find. 225 is the coupe flywheel, 240mm is the 2+2 or turbo flywheel. "Stages" will vary with manufacturer.
  23. NewZed
    Read up on the supercharged Xterra and Frontier. Here's a start. 02 - 04. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Xterra "The 3.3L VG33E V6 was upgraded to 180 hp (134 kW) at 4,800 rpm and 202 lb⋅ft (274 N⋅m) at 2,800 rpm, with the 210 hp (157 kW) supercharged VG33ER option carried over from the 2001 Nissan Frontier, producing 246 lb⋅ft (334 N⋅m) of torque for the automatic, and 231 lb⋅ft (313 N⋅m) of torque with 5-speed manual."
  24. NewZed
    The pressure plate must match the throwout bearing sleeve to give ~92mm from the flywheel surface to the ears that the clutch fork sits on. Four speed or five speed doesn't matter at all. The clutch parts can't tell what transmission is being used. Take a look at the parts and you'll see that. Here's some Google stuff. https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS862US862&ei=1whKXvfyCY7y-gSCp7SADg&q=280z+pressure+plate+92mm&oq=280z+pressure+plate+92mm&gs_l=psy-ab.3...200050.201055..201506...0.1..0.63.232.4......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71.ywr3rTDnSOU&ved=0ahUKEwi3upTr0tfnAhUOuZ4KHYITDeAQ4dUDCAs&uact=5
  25. NewZed
    There's a seal on the striker rod that dries up or wears, apparently. Very difficult to get to. If you overfill you probably get more seepage there. Not a huge deal except for the annoyance. Part #22. You'd have to tear the transmission down to fix it. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-control/5-speed/22
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