NewZed

Electric? It's the future. https://fortune.com/2022/12/25/convert-vintage-classic-muscle-cars-into-electric-vehicles-ev/

The crud could be from antifreeze that leaked in from a blown head gasket. The engine does look pretty beat up. Aftermarket pistons and rings are getting harder to find, especially oversize. Better source parts before you have any machine work done. People are out there right now with freshly machined blocks and nothing to put in the bores. Can't find the parts. Make a spreadsheet and fill it out, see what will work and how much it will cost. A used L28 might be the best route, as suggested. They were used all the way through the 280ZX years, 1975 through 1983.

Sorry, I missed this part. Looks like you already compared. No idea. There's a guy on classiczcars.com that has many spare parts. TerrapinZ. He probably has a set that will work. Best guess would be an R160. They seem to be different, people don't call them R180 or R200 axles. Edit - except that they are bolt-in, not clip-in. There's a hole through the shaft. No idea. Good luck. https://www.ebay.com/itm/175411767044

I've not heard of any difference in that part of the axle. They're all the same, the half-shafts are swappable from 240Z to 280ZX. That locating ring is the same size across all of the Z's and ZX's, and R180's and R200's, I think. It is supposed to be a very tight fit, like very close to zero tolerance. A few mm is huge. Are you sure it's not "almost there", maybe rust and crud are the problem? Old crusty paint? The parts look correct for the way they are supposed to work together. Make sure that they are the same temperature. Aluminum expands a lot more than steel. Have you compared the dimension of the adapter ring to the raised ring of the half-shaft flange?

Which adapters? What "indented" portion? A picture would help.

Interesting that ZCD specifies them only for the R180. The 240Z's with R200 swaps is where people had binding problems in the past. Maybe ZCD knows something. $9.99! https://zcardepot.com/collections/rear-axle-and-differential/products/cv-rear-axle-replacment-240z-260z-280z

Best to be aware. Elon Musk co-founded ChatGPT. It's a philosophical discussion. https://www.cnbc.com/2023/02/15/elon-musk-co-founder-of-chatgpt-creator-openai-warns-of-ai-society-risk.html

Here's another interesting article. https://www.theguardian.com/technology/2023/feb/17/i-want-to-destroy-whatever-i-want-bings-ai-chatbot-unsettles-us-reporter

Forgot to say, although I've mentioned it before, they are using us as beta testers. They are trying to get people to respond and interact. Fake us out. On a different forum that I frequent I recognized the pattern and replied with a question that only a real person could answer, and ID'ed it as bot with words that character recognition shouldn't pick up. So far, no response. Somebody else had already responded with a "Like" to the comment. Kind of embarrassing. "Big tech" will do whatever they can do to extract money from the masses.

Nobody really understands how Facebook and Google make money. But, apparently, they do. Here's a decent review about the why and the latest. If you've ever used "Chat" when trying to get something from your cable or phone company then you can easily imagine a Chatbot taking the person's place. https://www.theguardian.com/technology/2022/dec/05/what-is-ai-chatbot-phenomenon-chatgpt-and-could-it-replace-humans

Ask it a question and see what happens. Be careful. Thought control.

Check out this technology. Uses vaporization of liquid to gather the heat and remote condensation to transfer it. Used in the plastics molding industry. No pumps needed. https://www.synventive.com/aboutus/default.aspx?id=44342

How about a separate heat transfer fluid? Like a heat exchanger on the diff cover that flows water or antifreeze and sends it off to a remote air cooled heat exchanger. Like the engine radiator does. Leave the hot oil alone in the diff and suck the heat out of the cover.

I notice in their ad that they say it works well with their parts. But doesn't say how it works with stock parts. I'd want to know how long they were, both extended and compressed. Some 240Z's with R200's have binding problems, and other CV axles on all S30's have binding problems. Anyway if they have the numbers you can compare them to what you're replacing and you can be sure. Don't take their word for it, get the measurements. Good luck.

It's educational. These AI posts are popping up everywhere as big tech tries to use the public as beta testers. calZ's post seemed on target, the bots have exposed themselves. Better to have a good example so people know what's going on than to wait until they're so good they seem like real people.

I came across this web site recently when I was searching for some things about cooling systems. Obviously AI generated. Fun to read. https://engineeringlearn.com/types-of-cooling-system-in-car-engine-components-function/ " What is Cooling System? A cooling system is basically a four cylinder vehicle that completes its journey producing 4000 explosions per minute inside the engine, when the spark plugs explode in each cylinder to move the vehicle. These explosions produce a great amount of heat that needs to be controlled. If they are not controlled they will destroy the vehicle. The controlling of these temperatures is primarily the job of the cooling system. The modern cooling systems are more efficient and reliable than those cooling systems of the 20’s."

https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/1-wiring-diagrams/ https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/12-260z/

Bot

"brakes" How about eBay or craigslist (or whatever the Canada version is) or a wrecking yard? Just get some beat-up used aluminum wheels. .

Ironically, I was hoping that you would leave that one. It's a good example of what's going on these days and it didn't seem to have any hidden links in it. Now my post is hanging out in thin air. I would bet that whoever is creating the posts is watching to see the responses. They're using various forums to fine-tune the AI. Seeing if they can get a pseudo-conversation going. We're being used as beta-testers.

That Gorilla glue might not be resistant to hot ethylene glycol and water. That is the inlet to the water pump so if it lets go that plug might get sucked in under certain conditions. You could boil it in a coolant blend since it's off and see what happens. Also, even though it's on the suction side it's still under pressure. Not really sure what the balance between suction and pressure would be at that area at certain times. So even though the gap is filled the bond between the metal and the glue or the rubber and the glue might not be strong enough to withstand it. Probably 10 psi +/-. Stuff to think about. Automotive applications are tough on materials. Since the hose fits on the outside, you could tap the inside and use a threaded metal plug without ruining the part for future use as an inlet. One possibility if the Gorilla glue doesn't make it. Good luck. https://www.gorillatough.com/product/original-gorilla-glue/

Should be in the groove inside the side gear. Drawing below. 280ZXT's did not come with LSD. They have to have a 300ZXT LSD long nose R200 swapped in or an aftermarket LSD, like Quaife, installed in the R200 case. Not clear what you're working with. There are also 1988 300ZX viscous LSD's that use different length axles. And later 300ZX short nose viscous LSD's that also use different axles, but with the clip installed on the axle, not inside the side gear. Here, "circular clip*". From the 1989 FSM.

The new axles probably a have square edge on the circlip groove when there should be a small chamfer.

I borrowed this image from an eBay ad. I stuck the chisel end where the arrow points and wedged the axle out by the flange by tapping the chisel in to the gap. Can't remember how the ZX CV's look there. But I do remember using a long punch through a diff to knock out an axle from the other side in a shortnose R200. It was a viscous diff though and was open through the center. I think you'd have to remove the center shaft on yours to do that. That's the other option where you would have to remove the cover and take the shaft out so that you could get a punch through there.

Probably the circlip jammed in there somehow. An outer groove and an inner groove and a small space in between that is supposed to be too small for the circlip. Even with the diff cover off you'll probably still have to use brute force to get it out. What would you take apart to get to the circlip? I've used an oiled cold chisel as a ramp (wedge is a better word) to pop out the R200 short axles. Might work for CV axles.