1 fast z

Well will any ford coil pack work then? Ford pretty much only used coil packs since 2000. Since the mustang SOHC ones, are short, and have a funny curve in them. The DOHC ones look more better for twin cam engines, rb's, my custom head, etc.

Get a SC400 oil pan, and you will be set!

Just make sure you add the fuel to it also!

I know as well as being a buisness man, that you have to honor what you say. I build heads and intakes for guys all the time, and although I may be a couple days or so late, I call my customers every week or better and let the know whats going on, if I am ever late. The key is to keep people updated. Flanges are only a couple hundred dollars, but many of these people that ordered flanges, was done a year ago. I could not sleep with letting my customers wait a whole year after taking deposits or full payment. I am not trying to talk down justin by any means, just giving some advice. My suggestion is to not take any payment untill you have the parts in hand, on production runs, then no one has hard feelings. I guess I am just speaking from one vendor to another. I guess the key thing, is to make PERSONAL contact with your customers that have paid. PM's or email, or even a phone call. Rap some old cardboard, and a bunch of duct tape around the flanges, and send them off! They are durable, they wont break!

The SC400's are a rear sump, and the LS, GS are front sump. The oil filter mount is also different between the SC's and the GS's as well as the headers. Basicly the SC400 setup is made for a much more compact engine bay.

I swaped a 1u in my 95 toyota 4runner last year. It is a TIGHT fit. They are much bigger than a SBC, for comparison. Are you using the stock electronics, or standalone? I went with standalone, as the toyota harness is pretty complicated, especially, since you have to bypass a bunch of sensors when you use a standard trans. I use a W56 behind mine. Lots of smooth power though. I bought mine for 150.00 at a local pick a part, with everything atached. I then bought another one for 175.00. They seem to be bullet proof.

I own a flow bench, and have tested it. I know guys that have tried it on their cars, and never saw a gain. I said it would work, but it has the potential to run hotter.

Bigest thing would be exhuast flow is going to be hurt, since it does not match the EX manifold. You "might" see the engine run a little hotter, since there is no sheild from the port now, and they are cast thinner than a square port head.

Why, it shows NO improovment on a flow bench, or in a real motor.

Will they work, Sure, are they optimum, NO. Turbos opperate off of BTU's, the farther form the heat source, the worse spool is going to be. I had a remote mount turbo on my truck for about a year. When the truck was somewhat cold (only running for about 20 minutes) It would hit 10 lbs at 3500 RPM, and when I got the pipes REALLY hot, it would spool 1200 RPM sooner. My turbo was about 4 feet from the ex manifold. The thing is, is that an exhuast pipe looses alot of heat (btu's) when travled a long ways, so the closer you can keep the turbos to the motor the better. Remote mount turbos are good for cars that dont have any engine bay room (corvettes, 350z's, etc.) But for cars that you CAN do it in the engine bay, like Early Z cars, there is NO point.

I milled it on a mill.

I built my own gasket.

I run a solid copper head gasket, and push as much HP as any of the guys here on the L series, with solid stainless orings, and never have a problem. Although, my block is in stock configuration, other than the two secondary coolant lines. I have had no cooling problems yet. I would add a manifold on the outside upper part of the head, to get the heat out faster.

I personally have never seen a chain break, although have heard of it. Problem with making a motor non interfearence is that you give up detonaiton resistance as well as burn traval rate, etc. Install a good chain, and it will last.

On my 2/2 I run 350 rears, 250 fronts.

Yes the car has power windows (they still work) as well has POWER FENDER MIRRORS, all from the factory.

Yea one main important thing, is the height of the pinion, once that is correct, set a bit of clearence for backlash, about 8 thou of an inch, and your good to go.

Clifton, you also have SDS on a RACE car, I bet it is NOT quite tuned as well as your street car is. You have had ALOT of problems with Flyback circut related. Its real easy I think.

I acutally bought the car locally when it looked like this I bought it locally for 1500.00 THe dash cover is custom made.

I have personlly megasquirtd 10 vehicles now. The sensors are 8 dollars for the IAT sensor at ANY auto parts stores, and the CLT sensor is 7.00 at any auto pars store. I am not sure what debugging you are talking about with the sensors, but I have never had to debug any sensors. MS cost 240.00, 300.00 with harness. So no more than 400.00 with EVERYTHING. IT takes me about 3 hours to wire and mount everything. As far as a warrante, Once MS is installed, CORRECTLY, you wont ever have a problem.

Lets just say a "hybrid" gets about 50 mpg. Then you have a 280z, that gets 25mpg. The 280z, cost anywhere from 1000-2000. The hybrid after taxes, etc. your looking at about 30K+. So at 4.00 a gallon, if you drive 200 miles a week, which is somewhat average, you burn about 4 gallons in the hybrid, and 8 gallons in the 280z. So you saved 16 dollars that week. 28k/16.00= 1750 weeks. Then 1750weeks, over 52 weeks a year= about 33.5 YEARS to BREAK EVEN. So to justify buying a NEW CAR to save money, is not really very realistic. Again this is all just an example.

I buy mine from venolia for 55.00 a peice, for basicly a 240sx forged unit.

At 4+ times the cost might I add!

For the extra lets say 8k+ that you would spend on a bike, that would take ALOT of time to make any savings of it. I am not talking to you directly, but lots of my friends, say "hey I am gonna buy a new car for 30k, that gets 35 MPG and I will be saving money" What they dont understand, is that for the extra 35k+ you would have to drive it for DECADES, to even get back any profitable return!

I basicly had 1 month in the head and engine, one HARD month. Since they were EDM cut already. LOTS of time, I can attest to that. And if you were to pay a compentent shop to do the job at 100.00 an hour, it ADDS up.