mario_82_ZXT

R12 is way colder! If you just want to go with new parts, look up Vintage Air. A few guys on here have installed it and it's pretty neat and uses pretty much all new parts. Mario

Looks cool, but why the 7th injector? Is that charger meant to be run wet? Mario

The front looks dated but the rear looks great in my opinion! Mario

Woah cool! That way you can still run the stock fan up front... hmm interesting, I think I'll do that on my dad's 280zT. Mario

I'll stop when I can light up the tires in 3rd rolling at 60 mph Mario

Cool I never knew that!

Corzette, It looks like that body can be replicated with the Arita Speed kit by bolting on the flairs instead of glassing them in. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125850&highlight=arita+speed Mario

I think you posted in your other post that the original wheels were zero offset right? So wouldn't you ideally want a 42mm spacer? Now lets see, 42mm = 1.65354331 inches At zero offset, you'd have a backspacing of 3.75 inches. I believe if you search you'd be able to find the backspacings that people run. I know that the number of smallest backspacing people have ran is in previous posts, but I think a generic 2in spacer would work, in fact a 1.5in one would probably do the job as well... Mario

This is what I meant: http://www.viatrack.ca/ And it's cheaper then I thought! Mario

What does hitting the spacebar do? You can if you wire up and tune the stock sensor or if you buy a "knocksense" module. MS has the input lines for that but it doesn't have the circuit built in. But the module and sensor is like $90, and with that you can tune MS to retard timing if it hears knock. Mario

I've heard not to heat up street tires as that makes them slicker, and only spin them a little if they have a lot of gravel/debris on them. You should be getting better 60' times as with a stock L28ET in my 280z with harder-then-a-rock Kumho tires I manage to consistently hit 2.1 and even once a 2.0. I launch at about 3.5k rpm with some clutch slippage to avoid spinning followed by a hard shift close to 6200 rpm. What are your Illuminas set at? I have mine at 3 in the back. Mario

Swishmax a is flash "maker" that is great for making text and menu based flash files. It has a lot of built in effects and codes that are pretty trick and somewhat hard to pull off in regular flash. There's even a 3D version that lets you animate in 3D almost like if it was Maya or 3DSMax. Mario

That may be the case. Try something between 6.8k to 10k and see if that smooths it out. Mario

Are the numbers at the end the amount he has available? Mario

Looks nice! They sure have come a long way. Sadly it looks too expensive for me Mario

In reality, it doesn't matter which output you use for what, as they are both programmable. The way they say in the manual is for if you have a stock ECU car that runs on a NBO2 and their fancy a/f gauge. Anyways, That's what you want. You also need to reinstall MT if you haven't told it you'll be using the LC-1. Mario

The duty cycle shows a max of 89 though, which is not maxing out the injectors, but at the same time I think it's best if you keep them under 80%. Have you checked your fuel filter/lines to see if they are clogged? We thought my friend's 280z was running out of injector but it was clogged fuel filters (2, one before the rail, and the other before the pump). Mario

Can you cut away at the silicone elbow at all? We managed to fit a 31" length (overall) on a friends car with some cutting to the rad support and some trimming of the silicone couplers. I sawzall will cut through the sheet metal like butter, and I've heard a hole-saw is pretty good too. I don't like rotozips because the can go all over the place. Mario

Which pink wire are you referring to? I don't see it. From the manual: a. Red 12V supply (You can use the fuel pump power source) b. Blue Heater Ground c. White System Ground (should be grounded at the same place as wire above) d. Yellow Analog out 1 (Pin 23) e. Brown Analog out 2 (You can use this for an air/fuel gauge) f. Black Calibration wire (Leave it disconnected as you only need to calibrate it once, make sure it is taped off as it has to be an open air calibration, and you don't want it to try recalibrating accidentally with the engine running.) The unit takes about 30sec to warm up to operating temp. You also have to change the output to 10:1 = 0v and 20:1 = 5v or else the a/f will be off in megatune (using the Logworks application). Mario

I believe the strut towers are higher (and thus a different length apart) on the 280z's. Mario

Add a resistor from 6-10k ohm on the wire that goes to the tach. Hopefully it isn't damaged (I've heard of that happening which is why you need the resistor). Also, MS grounds all it's outputs, if it were to feed 12v I have a feeling it wouldn't be able to drive much due to the small traces. I need to do the electric fan mod on mine... Mario

I think his firmware is too old for that. Minimum for HEI4 is different, and makes the tach go crazy. It should actually be non-inverted at a 75% fixed duty cycle. My doesn't even warm up with these settings. Maybe upgrade the firmware? And definitely move the HEI module. The VB921 is from a newer MS version hardware (v3). Mario

I'm talking about the general settings and the dwell settings, which should be under the spark settings drop down. On all my installs (including my dad's fresh 280zT), I've put the HEI module near the coil and close to the headlight bucket. I don't think the buckets are completely sealed so I'm pretty sure there's some airflow there... And aren't HEI modules originally cooled by the rotor in the distributor? I think you really ought to move it. Also I'll look for the heatshield as I'm pretty sure I have one in my turbo parts car. Mario

They look great! Mario

What are your spark settings? My car has the HEI mounted on a heatsink. My friend's 280z has it on a piece of 1/8 aluminum then mounted to the chassis. Neither of us have had problems with it overheating. Good to see you back on the board! Your ZXT is still one of the best ones out there! Mario