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Showing results for tags '280Z'.
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Hi Guys I am about to purchase a complete rear end setup from a 1978 280z. The owner claims the car was a manual, and I'm needing to know how to identify that the car really was a manual. I know that if the car was truly a manual, then the rear end is indeed a R200. Any tips or identifiers on the rear end or the car being a manual is much appreciated. I've listed a link where I sourced the majority of my info. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ Thanks, Ben
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Hey just made this account and wanted some advice, and opinions. I swapped the engine into the car about a year ago, I got it running, but I had some serious power loss issues, I found an intake leak. So right now I've got the head off and am getting ready to get it cleaned. And just get it running stock, I plan on doing a major build come August. Anyways my goal for this car would be autocross, leading up to getting the car on the track. In that sense I would really love to push 26-28 psi. With that in mind could I get some good input
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As you all can undoubtedly tell I'm new to the forum and decided that I might as well document my build for my own purpose of keeping track of things and organizing my plans and thoughts. This is the first time I've created a build thread for any of my projects so bare with me and don't pile the BS up to high, I'm kinda short and I don't swim to well in the green stinky stuff. I've always loved the look of Zs and I have wanted one for quite sometime. The opportunity has presented itself recently for me to get one from a co-worker who has decided to part with an extra "parts" car that he has a few miles from my house. I checked the VIN tag and it appears to be a '75 280z. The engine and manual trans are in unknown condition and the body is in desperate need of paint and some rust repair, but what neglected S30 doesn't need all of those areas fixed. All of that a side the cost of the car is pulling the LH door for him to install on his '70 240z or find an acceptable replacement for his current door and the car is mine. A couple of days after being told that I can have the car a local classifieds had a fairly complete VK56DE out of a 2005 Armada for free with a spun #4 rod bearing and otherwise pristine internals. The seller included a fairly complete engine wiring harness, injectors, fuel rails, intake, block, heads, internals and oil pan as well (some items are already removed and on the shelf). I've always liked the raspy growl of ITB injections setups but can't stomach the price tag on my salary, but while looking around at a few other VK56 builds on other forums I decided that if I'm going to go thru the all of the fabrication headaches of stuffing the beast in I might as well go big or go home. So I researched some different options using extrudabody, gsxr throttle bodies and a few other motorcycles until I came across some really inexpensive BMW units on ebay. I paid $2 and shipping for 4 throttle bodies in a bulk buy and they arrived last friday, and another one is on it's way with the injector and TPS for under $20. I'm on the look out for some good deals on the remaining three units. These ones have a stock 336cc/min injector vs the vk56 286cc/min from what I've been able to find online, they also have a straight thru 45mm ID and the injector will clip right into the factory VK fuel rail. I haven't decided if I'm going to use the BMW injectors for sure yet, I'm thinking initially I will just install the VK units with a small press fit bushing to reduce the bottom sealing boss to 14mm from 16mm. I already ordered some replacement shaft bushing as they are a known problem for the BMW oilheads and talked to a few friends about linkage and shaft design. I think I can get an 8mm precision stainless shaft to run thru all 4 on each side and then put a cam arm on each bank with a solid link to a torque arm and cable pulley in the center done failry easily. Once I finish getting the adapter plates for the head to throttle body modeled in solid works I'll be able to get a better idea of the specifics. The spun rod and crank need to be addressed first though, but I've got some mad scientist ideas for that in the back of my head too, we'll see what the engine shop machinist has to say first... As far as drivetrain goes I'm still researching and trying to decide what transmission option will be the best in regards to price, ease of conversion, longevity and power handling capabilities. The top two choices currently are a Z32 manual or a CD0009. Differential will initially stay the stock open R200 until I get the bugs of the engine and trans swap all worked out and then as funds and the necessity for stronger parts come into play either an R230 swap of some form or the Ultimat IRS 8.8 that wfritts911 has worked out in the drivetrain section. Just clarify for those still reading this I am well aware of how difficult and intense this swap will be and that many people all over the web have started, talked about and never completed the swap but there are some who have paved the way in S130s, buggies, 240sx, 350s and 370s. All of that being said this will be a pretty drawn out and long process as I don't have a set pool of money to just throw at a project until completed. I've got 4 kids and I'm the bread winner for our family working 1 full-time and 2 part time jobs. I do how ever have some very good connections with a few local machine shops, mechanical engineers, fabricators and professional welders. I also work full time at a government shop where I can use any of the tooling and facilities after hours that I don't have at home as long as I clean up after myself. That's about all I can stand to write for now, as things progress I'll try to take lots of pictures and document as much as possible.
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Hello, So I'm new to HybridZ and somewhat to Z's as well. Got mine back in May of 2014, I've been restoring a 1978 280z and so far I haven't had too many problems. As of now it runs good, sometime it's has problems on a cold start, and it'll idle high but then settles down to around 700-800 rpm. Well anyways right now my issue is with the amount of heat in the cockpit. It gets hot in there, and I feel like it's coming in from the engine bay, but I've also been told it might be coming from the tranny. I wanted to know if anyone else has had this issue and how you solved it? Any information would be helpful. Thank you
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Hey guys, I'm looking to buy a 280zx with a L28et turbo engine. Would like to buy as complete as possible, Post or PM what you have w/ details, price etc. Trying to find a donor car that runs but isn't very nice for the outside, really just need the engine. I'm swapping it over to my '78 280z. Preferably manual, unless its possible to bolt my current stock 5 speed transmission to the other engine w/o problems. Thanks.
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From the album: 280z project
<p>The day i got the car and the engine home. been wanting this car and engine combo for a long time <img class="bbc_emoticon" src="http://forums.hybridz.org/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.png" title=":)" /></p> -
So my build is coming to an end. Spare wheel well has been cut out for the f body fuel tank, gauges are ready to be installed. One last thing at the VERY VERY end, is the exhaust. I've heard a lot of people go 3 inch. I'm wanting to learn towards 3.5 single from 3inch collectors to a 3.5 inch y pipe through a resonator and a muffler. I really really want to avoid drone. And i REALLY want to avoid having to do a true dual out setup. Here's what I got so far. 4inch intake into stock ls1 from 2000 SS sanderson block huggers from JTR, ceramic coated 3 inch collectors. WANT TO GO TO 3.5 inch y pipe, to a resonator, and a muffler, then out. What do you guys think? How would it fit under the s30 body? Am I looking for too much with a 3.5? ANY sound clips are welcome. I've been coming through youtube to find a good 3.5 inch exhaust note, but i've been seeing a lot of STATESMAN machines from australia. PS, I want a smoother throaty sound than a cammed sound that seems to want to rip through the pipes. Maybe that has a lot to do with what tips? =T -
Hi All, I'd like to buy the fan control resistor for a 77 280z, part number 72 from here http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Electrical/AirConditioner/tabid/1673/Default.aspx Thanks
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My daughter blew the motor in her 76 280z this past weekend. Machine Shop wants two grand just for the block work. I need a good 75-78 L28 block I can rebuild. I can pick up in Kansas, Oklahoma, or Arkansas. Car is in Kansas now. Cash money! Call me 479-866-9667 please if you have a long block or a good used motor sitting around. Thanks!
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Hello! New to the forum. It's always been on my bucket list to own a 240z, so i'm hoping someone out there has one for sale? *update WTB a 280z I am looking for one that has not been gutted out. No drag cars or chevy swaps please. Ultimately, I'm looking to restore one and possibly do a 26RBDETT or a SR20DET swap down the road. I'll be in GA until March 2015, after that I'm moving to the DC Metro area. Thanks! Charles
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I'm looking for a rust free and overall clean s30 hood in the Houston Area. I have no preference concerning which style either. Just let me know what you have. Feel free to send me a PM or leave a response here with the details. Best Regards Anthony
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Well, I figured it would happen eventually. I'm trying to figure out the wiring before I get the engine in the car so the swap goes as quickly as possible. I've gone over the sticky as well as the more extensive and hidden version of the same thing. Harness is from an 82/83 280ZXT and going into a '76 280Z The diagrams and pictures I've seen have two plugs near the rubber firewall grommet, one for ignition (8 wire plug) and one for the fuel pump/fuel pump relay (6 wire plug). However, my harness has two 8 wire plugs, and the wires and colors do not match those of the diagrams I've seen. It doesn't even match the '83 FSM diagram. The person I bought the harness from labeled a couple wires in what seems to be the fuel pump and fuel pump relay plug harness, but I can't verify them obviously since the plugs and wire colors don't match what I've seen. Diagram that has been referenced: I'm also confused on the two wires that feed power to the EFI relay. They were connected to fusible links, but the sticky says stick them on the POS terminal of the starter. Shouldn't they be fed power after fuses? I'd assume I can hook them up to my fuses that are currently in the car (I did the maxifuse swap) but I'm not sure... Also, I'm unsure about where to wire the power wires that are in the EFI relay loom. 1 constant 12v and 2 switched 12v. If anyone has done this swap and would like to guide me on where would be a good spot to do this please let me know. Maybe I'm just thinking about this too much but I keep second guessing myself and running into weird issues like the plugs and wire colors not matching. Pictures attached show the plugs in question.
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From the album: 1978 280Z
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From the album: 1978 280Z
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From the album: 1978 280Z
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From the album: 1978 280Z
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From the album: 1978 280Z
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Hi, I'm looking at a driveshaft I found and based on the pictures it looks like a T5 driveshaft that's been cut and shortened on one end. To my knowledge, they're the only ones that neck down at both ends, but this one only has that at one. It also has the square diff flange and seems to have a 26 spline tailshaft yoke based on the blurry picture I got. Can anyone tell me for sure that it is/isn't? Thanks.
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I'm rebuilding an l28et and noticed this injector looks off. At least the cap is missing, maybe more. Is it toast? I can't find anything to reference what it should look like without the cap. Thanks in advance. And a different injector for reference:
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Hi im new to this forum but just the other day I got my first 280z. When I bought the car I knew it would be a project but I thought mechanically there was nothing wrong the previous owner swapped a new l28e and a new 5speed with 50k on both. With that being said I was doing a speed run the other day and after taking my z to 100 the power curve seemed shaky like after 80mph I would get bursts of highter power and then a lull of power. Now the problem hasgotten much worse, when I get upto 4000rpm it feels like the car is fuel cutting and randomly while I drive I just get what feels like complete fuel starvation. I think it might be either the afm or the tps but I was wonderin if anybody else has had this problem. There are new wires and plugs, new fuel filter, and injectors, and from what I can tell decent fuel pressure. I also started the car and it seemed like one of the cylenders want firing... maybe somethin to do with ignition timing? -thanks
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Like the title says! Must be matching, and must be from those 2 years. Older style locks won't work. Also considering buying just an ignition and driver's side locks that match from those years. Please have pictures so I can confirm the locks are of the correct type. PM me with offers!
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From the album: My 280z
My 280z -
From the album: My 280z
My 280z -
From the album: My 280z
My 280z -
So here's the problem. My 280 runs good for a while. But after a couple minutes of running it it just starts to slow down. I try giving it more gas but it won't let me it just wont go above 40mph and it just starts getting worse I have to stop the car and turn it off and back on
