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  1. Scoping the interwebs for some information on my new Suzuki F6A Turbo, I ran across a neat replacement distributor which looks head and shoulders above the conventional Mallory Replacement. It's programmable if you want it to be... There's a bunch of YouTube Videos showing it on FairladyZ's and etc... Some nice video showing the old Hitachi Distributor it replaced, and if you understand Japanese, probably some nice technical discussion as well. Sourced from The Netherlands, check it out, jump around the website they have distributors for most anything out there. Flying Magnet by the look of it. If someone NEEDS to keep the vintage distributor look, IMO this is loads better than a Unilite! http://www.123ignition.nl/id/50.html Looks like Paradise Parts is the US Distributor... Paradise Parts tel: 440-668-8164 sales@123ignitionusa.com www.123ignitionUSA.com
  2. Hello all, I'm a long time lurker here and am having issues with my fresh (600miles) rebuild. The engine is an 83 L28ET, using MS1 V3.0 with spark control, Holset HE351 turbo, mild turbo regrind cam, forged pistons (~8.5 to 1 CR). I did a WOT throttle run to redline testing a higher boost setting while datalogging, near redline (6k in my case) the car sputtered, missed, and backfired badly. I got off the throttle, coasted to a stop, engine is dead. Cranked it back up, only ran while applying throttle. Still backfiring and sputtering, I pulled over and got the car towed home. Removed spark plugs, verified even compression in all cylinders ~120PSI. Verified static timing, verified fuel pressure, plugs are clean and not fouled. I had a helper start the car and hold the throttle while I watched with a timing gun - the car is now firing 1 at ~33 deg BTDC. I then checked the distributor shaft - it looks slightly off, but not a huge discrepancy. I then rotated the dizzy to "account" for the extra timing and get it back to 20 deg BTDC. Car idles without throttle input now, but is still running like a pig, stutters, doesn't want to rev, etc. I decided to not risk any possible damage and starting documenting everything. Valve cover is now off, I've attached pics of the cam position and the hash mark, the harmonic damper's position relative to TDC, and also a pic of the distributor rotor and the shaft tang below. After plenty of searching, the only thing I can come up with is the oil pump drive gear has slipped several degrees, but that doesn't account for why the car still runs bad even after i artificially fixed the timing by retarding the distributor position. My next step is brand new fresh plugs, perhaps a new fuel filter to eliminate that possibility (car is getting 35 PSI at idle, but who knows might not have enough to run more?) Any ideas guys? And I apologize in advance if I've overlooked anything obvious... I'm naturally very worried and easily may have skipped over something. Also, please let me know if you need me to take pictures of anything else. Thanks!
  3. Like the title says need z31 300zx turbo OR NA let me know if you have one!! Im in San Diego CA, willing to pay for shipping if the price is right.
  4. no longer need at this time Had to replace cracked jeep windshield thanks
  5. So I just picked up an '83 280zx-t that I am planning on using as a donor for my l28et swap in my S30. Bought it not runningn as something "electrical" went wrong with the previous owner. He said he took it out of storage, jumped the battery and drove around the block and now the car won't start. When I got it home I began to go through all of the wiring and finally I was able to get some of the lights, however I still cannot get the car to turn over when I turn the ignition switch. I noticed a relay was missing from the relay box and also a wire cut from the other box under the hood. Hoping someone can help me identify if the missing relay or wire could be my problem.
  6. Klmykvl


    I am currently in the market to start sourcing parts for a turbo swap into my S30. I am interested in anything you may have to get me to my goal, which is as of right now, to run a stock l28et in my 240z. The more complete of a swap the better for me. Let me know what you've got
  7. Well here it is, my first build thread on this site. I am looking forward to see what comes out of it. Coming from a 350z, building a 240z is totally different. This is my first time working on a turbo car! I wanted to find a nice platform I can build upon. Here are Pictures: Mod List: ZX F54/p79 w/new Ishino head gasket installed, 160 psi across the board Dished turbo pistons T3/T4 turbo .63 /.60 IC piping in 2.5" and eBay intercooler BOV NA cam N42 non egr intake 440cc Supra injectors Pallnet fuel rail +1 extra 240sx throttle body w/spacer + 1 extra spacer ZX I/R alternator MegaSquirt 1 on 3.57 board 3 row aluminum radiator + 1 extra Electric slim fan + 1 extra 3.90 rear end 5 speed trans AEM wideband sensor & digital gauge All new urethane bushings except the diff mount and tc rods Rear strut tower brace Spindle pins replaced with aftermarket Fair interior (no holes, nothing conspicuously missing) 1 year old quickie spray Mopar 70's Sublime Green body (jams and interior remain yellow), flat black vented 280Z hood BRE spook airdam and MSA spoiler The Good: Body is pretty straight, and mostly free of rust I actually got it tuned and dyno (despite the oil leaks) - and made 214whp and 250 lb of torque @ 10PSI Megasquirt Wired Properly for the Most Part Not much Rust besides Battery Tray The Bad: Rust/Leak in Fuel Tank Front Timing Chain Cover Cracked (Oil Leak) Oil Return Line Leaking Harmonic Balancer Chipped Interior in Really Rough Condition Stock Tach not Wired Up Repair Made on the battery Tray stopped rust but was fixed poorly Minor Rust Holes on Floor Boards most patched up Poor Paint Job I've already started breaking down the vehicle to clean it up a bit.
  8. Well, here goes. I suppose an introduction is due before diving into the oil and grime. My name is Andrew, I'm nineteen and a community college student, saving funds to start an EE degree program at University of Texas at Austin. I own and drove a 1978 280z, orange with black stripe, and mixed history. I picked up this car through datsun trader, then found it for cheaper on eBay. Primarily interested in it for the lack of rust, I bought it and shipped it home, well aware engine longevity could be a problem. Then again, these engines were supposedly indestructible, or so I thought. About two months ago I was driving back home from Springfield, MO, during a blizzard. High winds, bad aerodynamics, and poor traction had my eyes glued to the road, and I failed to keep my eye on the other gauges in my dashboard. Apparently a piece of road debris cut into my oil pan, and I didn't even notice it. Soon, that starved engine grinding noise came from my engine bay, and the car died as I clutched in. Long story short, it took several friends, two tows, and about $270 to get my car home. Then came the decision of finding another stock NA block or going turbo. I would have preferred to find a full turbo parts car, but after searching local listings on multiple sites, finding someone selling it cheap wasn't going to be a simple matter. Then, about five hours away, or $70 drive with my mother's Buick, I found a JDM turbo block ordered a good ten years ago sitting in someone's garage, paperwork and everything included. Picked it up for $150, stuffed it into the back seat, and buckled it in. (Damn, that sucker was heavy, even with three guys trying to stuff it into my mother's car) After that was removing the old engine. Fairly straightforward. Then drop the new one it. Too bad I didn't notice I was dropping it in with the motor mounts reversed. Took me a while to figure out why my transmission was tilted. I went on a parts hunt, along with diving heavily into the torrent of information on here. It feels nice to say I actually understand how my car was put together now. Basically, here's my parts list: Stock turbo system DIY'd MBC - not run yet 1st Gen DSM BOV - I actually welded this to the before-turbo intake pipe. I'm an idiot, I know. But I guess I'll leave it off until I find an IC to mount as well. 81 block, 82 harness/dizzy with 85 chopper wheel, 87 ecu, 85 MAF. I have a new fuel pump, but not even Bosch can give me information regarding its flow rate, so that puts a stick in my installing it. z31 ignition coil and power transistor still running the original transmission, no problems with it. Redline mt-90 is the best stuff ever. 4.11 LSD R200 diffy 370cc ford brown top injectors Most of the fun came in the wiring, where the original owner took a few glances at the wiring diagram, screamed "F*** this S***" and did his own thing. That was fun. Fried two coils before getting it right. I guess that means I should never assume anything. Ever. Not with this car. Well, I finished all the wiring, and after all is said and done... So there's a few timing issues, and I failed to notice there was a plastic plug holding in my oil at the oil filter sandwich. Oil went everywhere. Yeah, not a single place in town could make fittings, (NAPA just opened, and Autozone and O'reilly were stumped. The plumbing shop couldn't help either) so I had to jury rig something with hydraulic lines, JB weld, teflon tape, and ultra black permatex. That's a shot of how messy my shop is. I'm moving pretty quickly with this considering how much time I've had allotted for it. I just finished finals in college so this past week I finally got the engine running. I'll always appreciate a few comments. The main one is regarding installing the distributor shaft. I've heard to install it at 11:25 when at #1 TDC, but A, I had to find my own TDC with rope and a file, and B, I can't really find the picture in my FSM I downloaded. I'm fine with just a page number if you guys know which fsm has an install picture. I might be a bit off, so are there any tricks to optimizing timing without the marks? My power goals are about 280 hp at the wheel. I figured it'd be a nice tribute to the nomenclature of the s30 I drive. Maybe in the future I'll go crazy (after I have my degree and a bit more of an idea what I'm doing) for super high horsepower numbers, but right now a hair under 300 hp is fine with me. I'd like to thank awolfe for his wiring diagram. Saved my life. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/misc-s30/44992-somewhat-color-wiring-diagram-1978-280zs-enjoy.html I'd like to thank afshin for his guide to adapting the ECU http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/26230-z31300zx-ecumaf-to-280zxt-swap-guide/ I'd like to thank Tony D, NismoPick, and Bleach for the information they've provided on multiple occasions, and for making me laugh through this otherwise strenuous research phase. And I wish I could thank the rest of the OPs who created topics asking the same questions I had as I was doing this. Where are the wiring diagrams for the z31? I've been unable to find them anywhere. Color would make my eyes less... Crossed, as I follow the pinouts for the efi system.
  9. From the album: HandyGandy Zcar

    Bought the car on 6/16/11 with 161,611 miles. Car was literally ALL ORIGINAL except the tires when I bought the car.
  10. MrDatsunTurbo

    My Vin Plate

    From the album: HandyGandy Zcar

    A picture of my VIN plate when I purchased the car.
  11. So I've been forum lurking for a while here now, and reading up on turbo L28 builds, and I was wondering if you guys could help me out with some questions I have as I have never really done much work on my own cars before and I'd like to start. I'm basically gonna copy and paste what Gollum wrote in response to another post to let you guys know where I'm starting at. I'd just like to get some recommendations and definite answers on what I need/should purchase and in what order. I don't think my goals are to outrageous I'd just like my care to be moderately fast. Is this a street car? Daily driver Will it see track use? It's possible What kind of budget are we talking about? I'm hoping to spend less than $3000 What kind of level of performance are we talking about? I'm trying to get around 230hp to the wheels. Fast as a new mustang? Fast as a Corvette? Fast as an enzo? Looking to hit 0-60 around 6 seconds What's your experience level? Basic Have you done engine swaps before? No Can you weld? No Rebuilt a motor before? Yes What access to tools do you have? A pretty good variety Have a cherry picker? Yes Welder? No Grinder? No Decent Bench? Yes Assortment of jacks and stands? Yes Basic list of parts I'd suggest: Was wondering if you could give me some pricing on what I should pay for these parts used or new Gollum suggested. Turbo manifold Turbo (T3/T4 hybrid works well for a street setup) 300cc+ injectors, 400+ preferred Any 'ol intercooler that fits Turbo intake will make integration with HVAC easier 36-1 Trigger wheel + Sensor MS 2, or 3 Coils (LSx work great, or EDIS-6 is fine too) MS Wire Harness Laptop with serial port Manual Boost Controller I'm getting my car dyno'd soon to see where I'm starting at. Do I need to do a head swap on my L28 to turbo it or can I just slap a manifold on with a turbo? Are dished pistons required? Do I need a turbo downpipe and exhaust? Do I need a stronger rear end or anything else? I know my questions will probably sound overly simple to you, I have a tendency to over think things. I'd appreciate any help you guys can give me. I think I have some pretty reasonable goals with a pretty decent budget. I'd prefer to avoid a head swap if I can as I'm low on time due to my work schedule. Thanks
  12. From the album: My Z Car

    This is the first picture of my 280zxt that I took the night I brought it home. The car was literally ALL original with 161,611 miles on it. Bought it from the second owner who owned it from 05-11. He drove it to and from his job at NASA during the spring and kept it garaged the rest of the year. I bought the car for $2500 and have driven it daily for a year out of the two that I've owned it so far.
  13. I know this has been discussed millions of times in the past. I did a search of the entire forums and it looks like there hasn't been a recent post in the last 12 months about clutches for those of us with higher horsepower turbo L28s. While old topics are OK on some subjects, I think clutches are one of those always evolving parts. Sometimes X clutch from 5 years ago was junk and it's a reputable product today (and vice versa). I'm currently looking for one to handle what I hope my Z can put out, which is around 350ft/lbs (so the clutch should hold around 400). I'm using a stock lightened flywheel. I'd also like the clutch to not drain my bank account because we all know there's some clutches that are $2,000 that are just as good as a $300 one (You supra guys know this all too well!) Requirements. about 400ft/lbs of grip Be able to be driven on the street Be able to be driven on the occasional track event or autocross/drag pass. Be reliable I was planning on getting one from South Bend Clutch, but they apparantly do not like to respond to e-mails and calling results in speaking to a human, only to be sent to voicemail. Are there any good deals out there right now? What are the best options these days?
  14. I tried to search for a flange, so I can make my own downpipe for my l28et swap into my 240z, on google and here, but no luck. The flange I need is the four bolt to downpipe.
  15. Hello Folks. Does anybody have these FMIC from Simtec installed? Any reviews? http://simtecmotorsports.com/S30fmic.htm I am in the hunt and I've read alot using the NPR, Volvo 740, Starion etc. But the thing is, I don't have the tools to cut and bend the piping. These ones here are ready to install and fitted for the 280z with probably minor modification. And for the price they are descent. I could not find any reviews of this part here in the forum. I just got the l28et installed in the 280z and would like to upgrade with the FMIC. I will be replacing the clutch fan with electronic to fit these piping. Need some input from the experts. Thanks
  16. Hey guys my name is Joe Apostol. I'm pretty new to the Datsun scene. I live in Lansing, Michigan and in November of 2012 I purchased my first Datsun. I bought a 260z that came from North Carolina and looked like it had sat in the woods for a few years. I picked it up for $2300 with 80k miles, an l28 and 5 speed swap, rear disc brake conversion and it also came with a new exhaust and all new suspension/bushing throughout. I drove it for the first day I owned it and then put it in the garage and started working on it. Updates will be every couple weeks as I work a lot and am a full time student. So here are the pictures. I look forward to your comments and any advice you may have. Thanks The day it arrived at my house. I bought it and had it shipped to me Gutted it later that week Took out the center console and tried to fix some of the cracks so it wouldn't fall apart. I plan on buying a new one eventually Started installing carpet ripped off the exhaust cut a piece of the floor out and welded in a new patch bought a non webbed non egr manifold. Going to port it for the 60mm tb I bought Cut a hole in the turbo manifold so I can weld in my wg Installed the new cylinger head, been resurfaced, 5 angle valve job, also installed a cometic mls headgaske and arp head studs The worst of the rust, I cut most of it away since the picture and i'm going to fiberglass over it Brand new Greddy td06h 20g 76. trim Wastegate and dump tube. still have to weld it to the manifold I think that's about it for now.
  17. This is the start to what I hope becomes another great build thread. I picture it ending with a photograph of my Z, shining in the beams of Texas sunlight coming through a massive cloud of burnt rubber. There I am in the driver seat… old, broke and happy! I am an engineer, not a mechanic. I hope by the end of this project and after a few more years at my job, the gap between the two will meet somewhere in the middle. I do not have unlimited time and I have a baby on the way, so I apologize in advance for any long periods without updates or if at some point this becomes another sad part-out page. So far, I have only vicariously enjoyed your successes and turmoil. I’m going out on the same limb now, thanks for having me. Before I forget, many tanks to Matt (if you’re out there) for selling me the car…sorry I couldn’t offer more. Please post as much as you want with input, critiques, questions or moral support! For a little back-story here is my new member post. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105606-south-texas-engineer-with-a-new-75-z-turbo/ Starting line: Price: Every bit I could spare for…$2500!! Layout: 75 280z L28et (seller said ‘83… wiring harness and sensors are 81?) 5speed. It has strong metal everywhere except driver floorboard that has small patch and potentially lower section of deck lid. Battery tray, fenders and all towers are in great shape. Running condition: Fires right up, runs terrible. Not highway safe! Good Mods from previous owner: Very surprising bunch of aftermarket parts for a car that runs terrible! No details on what had been done so far… so it’s back tracking and investigation for everything but the obvious below. It has a “Recent†engine rebuild, no details, in a pretty clean engine bay. JSK fuel rail and FPR and an unknown newer style pump, MSD ignition coil with new distributor and wires, HKS BOV, new intercooler (~10x24x3â€), SS intake piping, KN filter set, oil cooler mounted behind intercooler, filter to cooler oil bypass, single small electric radiator fan, Interior has all new carpet, headliner and dash pad, doors open well and have decent liners. If that’s not enough, 4 brand new xxr wheels and tires! Downsides: Fuel management is no good and frustration with this is why he sold it. I think injectors are almost full open all the time. It spits un-burnt fuel straight out of downpipe onto my garage and starts burning your eyes within a few seconds. Under medium throttle at standstill engine can die from flooding. Oil has heavy fuel contamination after only a few hours of tinkering. Rear-end CLUNK when you shift quickly under load… I have ideas but I am not sure yet. Owner before me could not get hood latch open when he bought it… so he DRILL cut a hole in the hood above the latch to get it opened. No chassis light/electrical works, all HVAC controls removed, gauges don’t work. Status of diagnostics: I fixed an early issue with battery drain coming from a short in the rear-defrost (by fix I mean I removed the fuse) I then moved on with the “ecm connector test†and found almost everything reads open circuit or the wrong resistance. I have determined that the coolant temp and head temp sensor have no/broken connectors, wiring for them is bundled and zip tied. The TPS wiring was cut and then wrapped in elec tape so it only LOOKs like its plugged in. AFM was broken into and now doesn’t read the correct resistance throughout the range. But hey, Intake air temp reads great! Drawing board: I picture having the drive train and ride at 100% and spending as little money as possible to get the look to 75%. Right now I am considering removing all of the original engine controls and going with Megasquirt and maybe even 3.0 with spark control. My reasoning for this is that after adding up just a replacement AFM, harness repairs/connectors and OE sensors I am already almost to the cost of the MS system. I also think it is the coolest thing EVER to have that kind of system in a 40 year old car. So instead of asking the question “do you think I should Msquirt?†I am going over all the other answers to that question and the final product and decide for myself. I may go with just toggle switches for all chassis stuff besides brake lights and have a space for a small laptop to sit where the HVAC and radio used to be to show the extra gauges from MS. *Suspension to be addressed* After all that, its new seats… cheap paint job… and open road.
  18. Hey hybridz i figured since its now getting colder up in mass and i figured theres not much i can do on my Z since im at college, id start my own build thread. I picked up a 75 280z back in may as a birthday present to myself i talked the guy down from $1500 to $800. i bought the car with 80,000 on the body and only minimal surface rust. There was no motor in the car but the guy included a 79 zx that I've ended up adding a turbo to. Along with the motor the only thing that was in the car was seat and dash but when i got back from picking up the car it was packed full with boxes. The day i went to see it The front end was chemically stripped and the car was painted once Home safe and sound With my car home i got to work stripping the body down to bare metal and priming the entire car. There was alittle bit of damage on the drivers rear quarter that i pulled the metal to get closest i could to original and then i used a light coat of body filler to get rid of the small dings. The passenger side was in good shape besides right by the door The front end was in pretty good shape I did a little bit of sound deadening Once i finished most the body work and the massive 280z bumpers gone i got to work on the motor. i was a bit worried going into the motor since it appeared some sort of an oil leak so i did most of the gaskets and got a new cam since mine snapped in half but i fixed that and got some new spark plugs and replace the intake manifold off a turbo motor(not in pics) with injectors etc. besides all the crap in the cylinders they were in great shape way better than i was expecting so i cleaned out the cylinders and block then painted the block i put everything back together and dropped it in i picked up a stock turbo manifold off ebay that had been ceramic coated i also picked up a small t3 garrett turbo that had zero shaft play but i didnt realize the wastgate had been welded so i had to buy a spacer with an external wastegate port but for $80 im not going to complain i traded my old guitar for a set of brand new american racing steelies with adapters Thats pretty much where im at with pictures the car is still model car status right now with me working diligently on trying to get it to start. i have the resistor delete with a 3ohm resistor coil and i have the distributor upgrade (which i think is why it may not be starting). i have Tokico 5022 F-R and im planning to pick up some illuminas after the holidays along with a new starter, alternator, distributor and a carpet kit. ill update whenever some progress is made please leave some feedback/ suggestions Thanks for reading Josh
  19. I'm looking for an apater to bolt a t3/t4 up to the stock zx manifold. I've looked on ebay and found several but it looks like there are a couple different flanges that coupled the t3 to different makes, so I was wanting one that fit our cars, obviously. lol The flange on my compressor housing is bolt hole, center to center 3" x 1 1/8". Thanks fellas
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