bjhines

I have done a few sets, both bonded and bolted on. There is no right way to do them. I have always needed them for tire clearance and fit them according to the positions of the tires. A general rule seems to be that the lower edge of the flares can be the same height as the original fender edges. You place the tip of the flare so the it starts at the lower body detail/fillet line and set it so the inner edge is even with the original height. On the fronts; make sure your tires don't hit the front edge of the flares or the airdam sides(this is a typical problem area). With that said, Many folks have changed the positions of the wheels under the body with increased caster up front and increased toe in under the rear. That has lead to many RE-DOs of fender flares in the past. I have seen so many people get the car out for the first time and then find that the flares are not in the right place for clearance and looks. With any car build you need to have your suspension and tires figured out first. then modify the bodywork to fit them. Tire rub inside wheel well. This is with typical fender rolling work and the suspension is bound against the halfshafts. We need more room. Layout for placement. Initial cut. Cut and filler strip. Welded and trimmed. Temporary clamping screw for glue. Fillet Screws removed and fillets done Ready for paint Off to the races and they still hit just slightly under hard acceleration, uphill, apexing over the gators. dammit, but this is not a problem with the flares just a little more metal relief to do.

Hood Vents below http://www.hinesperformance.com/store/HEX-Vent-5GC-Edition.html

I did it to Rosco's 280Z and he loves them, but the time involved is mighty high.

Awesome, I was looking at making that piece in mirror images, glad you turned me on to these C6 Corvette Z06 parts.

It is only running on 5 cylinders. That is why it is backfiring. You have an ignition problem, likely the spark plug wires.

The other aspect to consider is drag and required downforce at required speed. The drag style wing produces less downforce but improves cd and stability. The drag wing has more consistent performance over a broad range of speeds. The 3d style big-wing produces more downforce as speed increases but also has more drag as speed increases. The wing was designed to work best at a certain speed; and it is tuned to work best at certain parts of the roadrace track.

That was a fun build. We found a few issues that caused some scope creep, but all in all it went very well. My experience with s30 chassis mods made this a more exacting chassis build than most. The electrical system is highly sophisticated and includes proper power distribution, safety/kill system, noise and transient suppression, signal separation and shielding. The drivers position was carefully mocked up and included 2 fitting sessions to finalize position and access to controls. The roll cage is the tightest I have ever seen in an S30. We managed to get the bars out of sight and away from elbows and helmet contact areas. The corner gussets and wide door bars make this thing easy to get in and out of. I managed to get mirrors properly positioned with a stock rear view and Toyota side views mounted in window corners. The car allows decent situ awareness even with a cage and big rear wing. Shakedown went nearly flawlessly. We checked and double checked everything. The only failure was a burned out ignition coil, which has been replaced with a proper coil this time.

1. There is a lot of access with a rotisserie that cannot be easily had in any other way. 2. There is a chassis dimension guide in the service manuals that should be used to ensure a straight car before you fab the roll cage. 3. The wheel and tire combo is absolutely necessary on hand before you start your project. Seat and steering wheel+mount are also needed for mockup. 4. The front end upper strut mounts may need to be moved rearward(3/4") to increase caster without moving the wheels too far forward.

Awwwww...

Stops Flex and seals airflow. Also remove pins for trailer ramp flexibility.

It appears to be a Toyota 4x4 caliper. It may be a stock rotor.

That is awesome!

I have noticed that the discharged oil has air pockets that are audible when cycling the system with the engine off. Obviously the air separates once it is in the canister. Then you get non-aerated oil with air pockets occasionally moving with it. The discharge oil is also cooler than circulating oil.

Maintenance is a drawback. I cycle the system and recharge the air side as often as possible. I do not trust it as I have had several times on track that it did not work properly. Air leaks in the AIR gauge plumbing, and air bypassing the O-ringed piston will cause a loss of air charge. Eventually oil will end up on the AIR-side and the canister must be drained on both sides and rebuilt. Observe the peak oil pressure on the OIL-pres. gauge and the AIR-charge on the Accusump gauge. The Accusump should always read higher than the Oil pressure gauge in my system. If the Accusump is lower, then the piston has bottomed out in the cylinder and cannot give you a full discharge. I have a dynamic difference in pressure due to the location of the gauge ports in the system(accusump in AN-10 lines and the Oil-P gauge on the top gallery port on SBC. I considered a differential pressure switch(like the brake system warning SW). plumbed to the OIl side and AIR side of the canister to indicate piston bottoming. I could even indicate nominal Pre charge one way, and low pre charge the other way, with a DPDT differential switch. If this were installed in a factory car(Like MANY DO) with the EPC valve(Like LOTUS EXIGE DOES), I would provide an automatic Precharge pump and I would set up a Differential pressure indicator like I just described. Unfortunately Lotus DOES NOT do anything beyond Canton's original design. I have also considered embedding a magnet in the piston, and using reed switches on both ends of the cylinder exterior. Problems with piston rotating away from reed locations come to mind. The magnetic/electrical bottoming indicator would reduce leak points from differential pressure plumbing. Where there is a will there is a way.