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Chickenman

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Everything posted by Chickenman

  1. 78 280Z NA MS2 Triggering

    Do you have the Jumper wire JS10 removed from center hole of Q16 and attached to IGBTIN ? Don't forget to change the little Jumper Caps on the 3.57 board Place the JP1 jumper in the 1-2 position. Place the J1 jumper in the 5-6 position. I do wish MS would not use the word " Jumper " for a connecting wire. This is a " Jumper " :
  2. 78 280Z NA MS2 Triggering

    As Softopz and I have both mentioned. Use the MSExtra hardware guide. It has the most up to date information and methods. I also sent you the relevant sections to look at for wiring. That does NOT include section 5.2.2. Section 5.2.2 is for a VR sensor. You do not have a VR sensor. You have an Dual Optical Crank Angle Sensor . As stated in section 5.2.8 of the MSextra hardware manual, the Nissan, Mitsubishi and GM Optispark systems have to be built in a specific manner. And that manner is in section 5.2.3 of the MSextra manual. Not the Diy site. Use section 5.2.3 . The Nissan Optical CAS also must have a +12 volt power feed. It's not a simple LED like a Petronix or Mallory Unilite. Lots of complicated circuitry in the Nissan CAS and it requires +12 volt power input. The part that must be understood, is that an an Optical sensor or a Hall sensor can be wired through the Opt/in circuit or the VR conditioner circuit. Either method will work. The old method was Opt/in. But the VR conditioner circuit provides a clearer signal and is provides adjustable noise filtering which the Opt/in circuit does not. That's why it is recommended in the MSExtra manual. But the use of the VR conditioner was only available with the software revisions in Firmware versions 3.2.1 and later. That's why we keep saying to use the MSExtra 3.4.2 Hardware manual. Tuner Studio will work fine with your current settings and the Tune I sent. Once the missing components are added and things are wired correctly.... The term VR conditioner is badly named. It causes confusion as people think that it is only for VR sensors. That's not true. It can be used with any sensor. Hall, Optical LED, VR or points. A better named would be just a generic: " Signal " conditioner IMHO. Your mainboard ( and Relay Board ) are wired wrong and have missing components. Install the Bip 373. Move JS10 wire to an unused output ( Maybe SPR3 or SPR 4 ) It looks like SPR1 and SPR2 are populated. Probably for PWM idle control. Hussein can advise better on that than me. You need. 1: BIP373 coil driver installed in Q16. Jumpers configured and jumper wire for JS10 relocated. 2: + 12 volt supply to the Nissan CAS. Right now we aren't sure what it's getting. 3: +12 volt supply in Run and Crank position ( Ignition switch ) to your coil. Right now it has nothing. That's not gonna work. Remember that the MS ECU controls most devices by GROUNDING. It doe not supply +12 voltage to injectors, ignition coil, fuel pump, IAC solenoids etc. Anything with a high current demand has to be supply +12 volts through a dedicated circuit or high current relays. Hope this helps clear the muddy waters...
  3. Building MS2 V3 Board

    BIP373 = Yes DIY Custom 54mm L28ET Trigger wheel = yes. Connect Optical through VR conditioner = Yes. The MSextra Hardware manual will have directions to build VR conditioner circuit in section 5.2.3. VR conditioner recommendation is an update since the DIY articles were written. There are links to specific VR settings that go into more detail. It's all in the MSExtra 3.4.2 Hardware PDF.
  4. Building MS2 V3 Board

    Make your life simple. Buy the BIP373 coil driver from DIYAutoTuning. It's a whole $8.50. Forget about the HEI Module. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/bosch-bip373-coil-driver-mod-kit/ Also, use ONLY the MSextra Hardware manual. That schematic is old news..... as is mostly everything in the Mega Manual. MSExtra Team has been doing the firmware development for the MS ECU's since about 2006. Anything marked " Mega Manual ", is from original B&G firmware developed before 2006... so its' only about 12 years old. A lot of improvements have been made since then. You should also use the VR conditioner circuit instead of the Opt-In/Opt-Out circuitry. The VR conditioner gives a cleaner signal. Softopz recommend this method ( VR conditioner ) . He custom builds MS2 ECU's and also custom harnesses for the L28 ET and just about anything you want. He's in the vendors forum. Please note: I'm not a builder. I know a fair bit about MS builds, but I mainly do Remote Tuning. Once you get ready to run I can help you out with a Baseline set-up and Remote Tune for fisrt start-up. PM me for details.
  5. Building MS2 V3 Board

    Have you posted this up at the MSextra.com Forums? Are you using the MS2 Hardware guide? Download it here: http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/MS2V30_Hardware-3.4.pdf Do not use the DIYAutoTune instructions. A lot of it is outdated material. You need a high current Ignition driver to drive a single coil. That's the BIP 373. Waste Spark coil packs would need 3 x BIP 373. Individual COP ( LS2 coils ) need the MS3X expansion board.
  6. Socorob: If you lowered the car with springs or Coil overs. Did you shorten the strut tubes? If not you are probably running out of suspension travel and hitting the bump stops. Common problem. Then you have to put Box Car springs in the thing to keep it off the bump stops. Not ideal.
  7. Wastegate upsizing

    We all done similar things at some point with cars. At least there was some good discussion that came out of this. Now go out and enjoy driving the car!!
  8. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    PM sent with contact info. LMK here if you don't receive the PM.
  9. Looking for Dyno tuner for MS2

    Got in late last night. PM sent. Will repeat with E-Mail.
  10. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    Taaron. Your PM doesn't seem to work. Trying to leave you some info. Can you give me a PM?
  11. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    Buy the Paid version of Tuner Studio right off the bat. You need the Auto-Tune feature that comes with the Paid version of TS. Just the regular paid version is good enough. You should also buy the Paid version of Mega Log Viewer. The standard versions is fine. Both programs are good for 3 different computers. I have MLV Hd installed on my computer. It's got a few extra Bells and Whistles, not really needed by the average user.
  12. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    Patience... lots and lots of patience. One thing I would advise is downloading the reading the Manuals from MSExtra.com . Use the information on there. It is more up to date than the info on DIYAutoTune. Much of the DIY info is archived and outdated. MS-Extra does all the development of Firmware now ( since about 2006 actually ) The MSExtra Hardware manuals are the most important and accurate. http://www.msextra.com/manuals/ I'd also recommend buying the Book on EFI Tuning from DIYAutoTune. Written by Matt Cramer and Jerry Hoffman it is an excellant guide for Tuning standalone EFI systems. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/performance-fuel-injection-systems-hp-books/
  13. Looking for Dyno tuner for MS2

    Don't have a Dyno, but I do Remote Tuning for MS and Datsuns. Very familiar with both and have tuned quite a few NA and Turbo L28's on Hybrid-Z, Classic-Z and Church of L-series. My fee's are very reasonable and I can get you a very good baseline Tune that is Safe and reliable. For maximum power I always recommend a Professional Dyno operator. Preferably with some Det cans to listen for Detonation. Load cell Dyno preferred. But I can save you a considerable amount od Dyno time and $$$ by setting up a good Baseline tune from the get go. Plus it is a great learning experience for you as you can follow along on your Laptop as we dial the Tune in. One very reasonable Flat Rate price and I offer free after support with Data-Log analysis and Tune revisions. By the time we are finished, the only thing you should need a Dyno for is Maximum effort Full Boost runs. I always leave my Boosted Tunes a bit on the conservative side for safety. There are certain limits to remote tuning. I'll PM you details
  14. If I was planning on using this car for Track days or even Autocross, I would likely go with Koni's on all four corners. But for now the KYB's in the rear will suffice. The rear has good grip and compinace for Canyon Carving. I like a suspension that will soak up bumps. A slightly softer suspension is also more forgiving in the rain. We seem to get more than our fair share in the PNW... Sigh.
  15. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    Chinkenman??? LOL
  16. Weird Idle?

    Actually, it was the whole Tune that was just not very good. I did a Remote Tuning session with Brett and built him a new Tune from scratch . It's running fine now. There is a problem with noise on the Coolant sensor, but we are addressing that. Idle issue was actually due to very poor VE and Spark Maps. Large jumps between adjacent RPM and Kpa cells were one of the big issues. There is no Sync loss now with new Tune. Another happy Customer
  17. Need help diagnosing noise.

    Good idea with the Cell phone Camera. It sounds most like a dry U-joint to me. When you reverse, the U-joint loads the needles and cages in a different direction. It can make this creaking noise. If the U-joints have grease nipples. Add some grease and see if noise goes away.
  18. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    Yes, you can use the original Nissan Clt sensor. Since there is no calibration setting for a Nissan CLT sensor in the Tune Studio selections, use the Saab. settings. It is very close to the factory Nissan. Or you can look up the 280ZX sensor values in the factory service manual ( available online at Xenon. com ). But the Saab values are close enough.
  19. No. I'm not running the same shocks in the rear... at this point. Fronts coil overs are using 1988 MR2 rears Koni sport. 250 lb/in front springs. Rears I like having a bit softer for touring comfort. So rears will be the Eibach Pro springs ( whatever rate they are ) with KYB's in the back. I'll use the front spring isolators on the rear to lower it another 1". Next season I may look at going with Coil Overs with Koni' Sports or Bilsteins in the back. Probably go 225 lb/in at the rear. I quite like the combo of Koni's up front and Bilsteins in the rear. I use that setup on my Audi and it works nicely. The Bilsteins seem to be more compliant than Koni sports, so you don't get a jiggly ride over Freeway expansion joints. I like the front a bit stiffer on Z cars than the rear for the street. Getting old I guess......
  20. Weird Idle?

    Andy Whittle has top notch Video's.
  21. Weird Idle?

    I'll PM you. I'm not surprised that Tune is not working. Tune is not even even remotely close to what that engine needs. Lots of basic settings totally screwed up.
  22. Weird Idle?

    More details on your setup please. Are you running an IAC valve? Post your MSQ so we can have a look at it. I have done Remote Tuning for several member on Hybrid Z and Classic Z. I believe all have been satisfied with the results so far.
  23. Wastegate upsizing

    SJ. Did you try a lighter W/Gate spring? Did it make any difference?
  24. Wastegate upsizing

    Hussein. Been through this with SJ already. Precision Turbo instructions only list setup for a Bleed style MBC. SJ is using a Ball and Spring MBC which operates entirely different. B&S style has to be plumbed to lower housing with top vent to Atmo. Not the same deal as an EBC or Bleed Style manual Boost controller. He was getting no Boost control at all following Precision instructions. After proper setup, he has Boost control. He just has a creep problem. That's due to bad W/gate inlet and exhaust design, IMHO.
  25. Wastegate upsizing

    Those external speed controls are great. I bought one for all of my corded tools. E-Bay.
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