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Chickenman

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Everything posted by Chickenman

  1. ^ Techno toy tuning makes some very nice Weld in plates and Camber plates. You won't go wrong choosing TTT.
  2. 280zx ignition module with Megasquirt - is it necessary?

    With the ground shield it must not be connected to the engine block or Chassis. Only to the inside ECU ground. Having grounds at both ends can induce an offset voltage into the ECU sensor ground circuit. You don't want that. Messes up sensors. I've heard of MS custom builders using a separate box outside of the main MS ECU box for exactly the reasons stated above. To reduce any internal EMI created by the Power transistor ( BIP-373 ). Very good idea with WasteSpark or COP coil drivers that would have multiple BIP373's. The Nissan Module could certainly be triggered and controlled as a Single channel dumb coil driver. That's exactly what it is. Be sure to mount it to a good heat sink though. Those modules get very hot. The distributor body acts as a heat sink from the factory. If not mounted to a heat sink it will fail in short order. The Nissna " Matchbox " module is pretty stout all by itself. You can use an old AMD style CPU Heatsink and fan to keep it cool. Fan may not even be needed. Make sure you use a good thermal conducting compound between the Module backing plate and the Heatsink.
  3. 280zx ignition module with Megasquirt - is it necessary?

    Advantages to running an external Ignition Module: 1: Ignition modules are noisy electrically ( EMI ) . For that reason, some builders of MS prefer to keep the high current Ignition coil drivers ( BIP373 IGT) outside of the ECU box. Or they build a Faraday cage around the Power Transistors. An external Module, be it a Nissan Matchbox module, aftermarket Ignition amplifier, such as a Bosch or DIY Quadspark unit or even a CDI box, will be isolated outside of the ECU as far as EMI noise is related. Very few manufacturers such as Haltech, Link Adaptronics, or AEM, ever include the High Amperage draw IGT drivers isiden the ECU. They all use external modules to reduce EMI. Logic coil drivers are not the same thing. They are low amperage circuits and don't produce the EMI that the IGT BIP-373 coil drivers Advantages of BIP 373 drivers ( IGT ) 2: The BIP373 drivers are cheap ( $8.50 each ) work well and provide a slightly cleaner install over external modules. We are referring to dumb coil packs of course. Logic coils such as LS2 do not require IGT coil drivers. Cons of external Modules. 1: More cost if one has to be purchased. Can be quite expensive if going more than a single coil. You need at least a 3 Channel coil Module for a 3 Coil Pack Wastespark system. That can be fairly expensive. Although you can sometimes find used 3 Channel Bosch modules for a reasonable price. . Audi V6 and BMW inlne 6's prior to about 2000 had these. 2: Additional wiring. The Nissan matchbox module would have to be re-wired to use the Programmable Timing curve features of the MS. And the distributor would have to be locked out. Not really a Module issue, but rather a choice of distributor type. Cons of Internal coil drivers. IE ( BIP-373 IGT coil drivers ) 1: They produce an ENI field. Nota good thing to have inside an ECU with very sensitive micro-orocessors. 2: They get hot. The more of the BIP-373 drivers you have, the more heat is pumped into the ECU case. Heat is not good for electronics. Worst case scenario for an L-6 would probably be three BIP-373's firing 3 x Waste-Spark " dumb " coil packs.
  4. 280zx ignition module with Megasquirt - is it necessary?

    Shielding should only be grounded inside the ECU. The other end should never be grounded to anything....
  5. L28et Dizzy no rpm Ms2extra

    I think Issa has a faulty CAS sensor as well. Trigger and Tooth logs are all over the place and intermittent. Car ran great one run, then as I watched in real time, the Tooth logs took a dump and the car died. Trigger logs and Tooth logs were very broken up. Think CAS said.... Buh Bye!!
  6. magasqirt wiring diagram

    If using an MS1 or MS2 and stock Nissan injectors ( Low-Impedance ) then I would strongly suggest using the factory dropping resistors. For some reason the MS1 and MS2 Pulse Width Control Limiting is a bit flaky with the Nissan Jecs Low-z injectors. It's hit or miss if it works correctly. If you change to different injectors I would suggest going to Hi-Impedance to save yourself from headaches. The MS3 PWCL drivers seem to be fine. MS3 uses entirely different coding though. IMHO it's firmware is much better than Ms2. Less " quirky "
  7. magasqirt wiring diagram

    There are different hardware manuals for Version 3.0 and 3.57 main boards. You didn't state what you have. but here is MS2 version 3.0 main board.
  8. magasqirt wiring diagram

    MS extra forums are the best place to find info like that. The MS2 Hardware manual will have what you want. http://www.msextra.com/manuals/ms2manuals/ And just to reiterate, the MobyTheVan articles are really ancient history. Much better ways to do things now.
  9. magasqirt wiring diagram

    There's been considerable changes to the Installation procedures since the MobyTheVan article. For instance, the development of the DIY L28 Trigger wheel. This is much more up to date. https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/hardware/nissan-trigger-disc/
  10. 280zx ignition module with Megasquirt - is it necessary?

    I would use the BIP 373 drivers in the MS. Switch to a crank fire trigger wheel or install the 82-83 280ZX Turbo distributor with Optical CAS trigger. With the Turbo CAS distributor you will have to purchase the DIY Custom trigger wheel for the L27ET engine. The advantage of using a Crank Wheel or CAS distributor is that now you will have fully programmable ignition timing. With three BIP373 coil drivers you can run Waste-spark spark ( 3 x twin tower coil packs.) and Batcfh fire injection on an MS2 If you add in an MS3X expansion daughter board, you can have full sequential fuel injection and 6 individual COP ignition coils on an MS2. Look on our Vendors forum. Softopz is a MS distributor and he can either build you a new ECU or repair/update the ECU you have. He also makes excellent Plug and Play custom harnesses. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/128308-megasquirt-plug-and-play-harness-and-pre-configured-ecus/ It may be a good idea to send the MS2 ECU to him and check it for any hardware issues. MS units can be built many different ways. And the build quality of course depends on the skill of the builder. used units can be a crap shoot. If you need Tuning, I can help you with that. I Remote Tune MS1, MS2 and MS3 ECU's. primarily for the Datsun L-serie's. You can PM me for more info.
  11. To bore or not to bore

    When you re-ring it, use regular Cast Iron rings... not Moly. Cast Iron rings with bed in nicely on a hand hone. Moly rings require a very fine and precise finish that cannot be duplicated with a hand honing tool. My L28 was hand honed and assemble with Cast Iron rings and it has virtually zero oil consumption.
  12. L24 vs L28 crank pulley

    Need a quick brain refresh on this. Hectic day so don't have time to research. L24 crank pulleys and L28 crank pulleys have their respective TDC marks in different locations correct? As I recall the L24 Ignition timing tab was on the drivers side ( Distributor ) side. L28 has timing tab or Arrow on Passenger side. Alternator side correct? ( Because of AC on 280Z and ZX. ) Person has put a L24 crank pulley on an L28. Timing Tab is just an arrow mounted on Passenger ( alternator ) side. That would put the timing marks out around 120 degrees? Correct?
  13. MS2 3.0 w/ MS2extra No Spark

    I've been in contact with Shane. He apparently got it fixed. It was those darned resistor jumper leads. He went back and re-did them with shrink tube, touched up a few solder joints and I think reloaded his Firmware. Anyhoo.. it goes Sparky, Sparky properly now. Shane and I are scheduled for a Remote Tuning session Sunday morning. D14 out seems to be one of those quirks in Tuner Studio that has never been updated. Older Instructions used D14 but it's been JS10 for a long time now. Used MS ECU's are " Like a box of chocolates. You never know what you are going to get "
  14. Pallnet Fuel Rail

    Scroll down to the Vendors Forum: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/99098-pallnet-fuel-rails/
  15. Supra 440cc injector CLIPS

    Now you tell me!!! LOL.
  16. Supra 440cc injector CLIPS

    This may be the conversion harness I saw the other day. I'd E-mail them and ask if the Denso end is universal. IE: For both High and Low side tabs. https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/products/denso-to-ev1
  17. Supra 440cc injector CLIPS

    There are universal Nippon Denso connectors that fit both the high and low tab style of Toyota injector terminals. You can get them on E-Bay, but I saw a Vendor on Church of L series that specialises in conversion harnesses the other day. I'll see if I can find the link. I made the same mistake the first time I ordered EV1 to Nippon Denso conversion harnesses. I finally found the correct ones. I'll look for that as well. Was a while ago. Edit: Here are the correct Toyota connectors that fit both the high and low side tabs on Toyota https://www.ebay.com/itm/6x-Female-Fuel-Injector-Connector-Electrical-Plug-Adapter-For-Kia-Nissan-Toyota/291929715010?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
  18. Compare your Dyno sheets HERE

    ^ That looks like a pretty stout beginning for a Baseline Tune. Looks to be well sorted already. Would have been nice to see AFR's.
  19. You should be able to " Free Rev " the engine a few times and build up the Vacuum in the Booster. On the " Over run " Vacuum will build higher in the Booster. Wing it hard to about 4,000 a few times. Let it return all the way to idle. Repeat about 3 or 4 times. Then press brake pedal. If brake pedal is easier to press, then you know the issue is just low idle Vacuum. If the pedal is still Rock Hard then you may have a problem with the Booster check valve ( Backwards or leaking ) or the reaction disc fell out when you changed the Brake M/Cyl
  20. Do you always degree your aftermarket cam?

    Isky's ( and other MFG's ) recommendation is for the good Ol' Boy push rod Cheby's and Ford's. They don't have over head cams and don't have the unique issues that OHC motors do. That being said, I have to admit I've assembled some of my own street Datsun ( A-series push rod ) and SBC engines without ever going near a degree wheel. Never had any issues.
  21. You didn't mention what Generation of LT1 you have. Early style Gen 1 (1970- 1972 ) or late style Gen 2 ( 1992 - 1997 ) or Gen V ( 2013 - Current ) . The later style have smaller combustion chambers and require a bit less initial ( mechanical ) timing than the Gen 1. Fuel quality also plays a part of course. So you do have to experiment a bit.
  22. 9in/hg is probably too low. You need about 12 in/hg minimum. A larger Booster or an Auxiliary Brake Booster Tank will help. You can also increase Idle Manifold vacuum, significantly by Increasing timing advance at idle. Cams with more overlap require more ignition advance at idle. Are you carburated or Fuel injection. You need to run a digressive Vacuum advance curve ( Carb ) or Load curve ( EFI ). With a carb you need a Vacuum advance that has adjustable spring tension and curve . You set the spring tension very weak, mso that full Vacuum advance is all in by 8 to 10 in/hg. Set the stroke length to give you about 10 degrees of total Vacuum advance. Then connect the Vacuum pot to Manifold Vacuum, so you have full Vacuum at idle. Set your initial timing to about 14 to 16 degrees BTDC at 700 rpm, with the Vacuum advance hose disconnected. Then connect the Vacuum advance hose to give a total of 24 to 26 degrees . Then adjust idle to about 1,000 RPM. You should find that this gives a considerable increase in idle Vacuum over Ported Vacuum, or no Vacuum advance at all. The only difference between Ported Vacuum and Manifold Vacuum, is that Ported source does not pull any Vacuum at idle. Manifold sourced vacuum does. As soon as you open the throttle Blade slightly, they both behave the same. But the extra 10 degrees of Timing with the Manifold Vacuum really helps cammed engines idle better, use less throttle blade opening to achieve a set idle speed and thus pull more Vacuum at idle. Stand alone EFI is a bit easier to do. You just play with keystrokes and builds the extra timing in by a Programmable curve instead of messing with Vacuum pot spring tensions and stop limiters. Note. It is very important when using a regular distributor with Mechanical weights, that your advance curve does not start too low. I always set mine so it started around 1,200 rpm with an idle speed of 900 to 1,000 RPM. Having too weak of advance springs will cause the timing to " bounce " at idle. Will cause erratic idle and erratic Vacuum readings.
  23. L28ET crank position sensor

    Proper ECU Grounding to the Cylinder head or Intake manifold is clearly recommended by MS as well. Have a look at section 3.2 " Grounding Schemes " of the MS3 Hardware Manual. Page 13 and 14. In fact, download and read the whole Hardware manual. The Hardware manuals provide the most accurate information for installation, setup and various Option for MS models. http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/MS3XV30_Hardware-1.4.pdf/MS3XV30_Hardware-1.4.html
  24. L28ET crank position sensor

    One other thing. Check the Trigger wiring to your CAS. On the Factory ECU wiring diagram you can see that all 4 leads for your Trigger wires are shielded. On some of the early MS3 builds, they have the Crank and Trigger wires as a separate 2 x 2 bundle. The Crank signal wires are shielded , but the Cam signal wires are just unshielded twisted pair. They should be shielded as well. All depend on how it was built... but it is something to check.
  25. L28ET crank position sensor

    Looked at your .MSQ. It would definitely help to Enable " Noise Filtering " under Ignition Settings. Enable both Primary Tach ( Crank ) and Secondary Tach ( Cam ) as you are using both of the Trigger sensors on the CAS. Use the default settings. Right now you have all noise filtering turned off.... not a good idea. Edit: Tuner Studio gives unconventional names to things sometimes ( actually, quite often ) And it can confuse people. I Have no Idea why they call these a " Tach " circuit. People immediately think of Tachometer and leave the setting off. What it should be called, and is called by other manufacturers is: Crank RPM signal ( or Trigger ) and Cam RPM signal ( or Trigger ) . Makes more sense to me at least....
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