Brad-ManQ45

It is my understanding that you need to ADVANCE the timing in order to ge tthe lean mixture fully ignited (on time). I would think that particular attention to the "lean cruise range" for both timing and accel enrichment (@kPa points/rpms) would help a lot. I'll be paying attention to this thread,because my engine is out and I'm starting the MS process...

Just because emissions are not required (state/county) doesn't mean that you can remove emissions equipment (federal) - that is illegal.

Give Roger at Z Barn a call - that's where I got my extra one from (making a crank trigger with it - magnets glued into it).

Just a heads-up to everyone about seats.... I cannot recommend the type of seat that uses a mechanical plate to provide lumbar support. I had a Conquest and was rear-ended at the age of 30 - 23 years ago. I still have problems with my lower back - right where that plate was. The entire rear of the car was crunched into the rear wheels. If you want/need lumbar support - get seats with inflatable bladders! I may decide to try and modify the stock seats with some welding and utilizing air bladders and closed cell foam and some garbage bags in order to get more support - at least I'll know I have enough headroom. (I'm ~5'11 1/2" and inseam is 30")

There are a lot of posts about turbos on this site. You must say what your goals are - HP/Torque wise, along with how quick you want it to respond (note: the higher the HP goal the less tip in response you will get), and what else you plan to do to the car. Do a search....

If your engine is using the stock injectors, then you have low impedance injectors and will need a resistor pack, since the resistors are in the stock ECU as opposed to the '81ZXT.

Happy 4th all!

I have a 3.36 R180 that I'm not using....

If the car is in a garahe and won'y get rained on - use Ospho. I got some at NAPA, much cheaper than PickleX. I have had my car down to metal in one fenderwell area for over 2 weeks and no rust. If the car cannot be out of the rain, the only recourse is epoxy primer - rattle can WILL NOT prevent rust - it is porous.

Ernie: Just saw this and have to say I hate to see you go! Thanks for the advice (both online and off) about painting. If it weren't for you, I doubt that I would be in the process of stripping my ZXT's engine compartment and getting it ready for new paint after rust fixes -which I will be doing all myself. I too hope that you don't go away, and hope you have a lot of fun in your new endeavor - and make more money! Please consider hangin' around to answer questions directed to you, and ignore the butt-plugs that that think their Shi* don't stink.... Thanks Again, Brad

Yeah, the coils go on the plugs - no spark plug wires.

hoohaa: I purchased 2 sets of GSX-R coils on ebay for about $45 + shipping. Six VB 921's and resistors will be about $36. Since AI will be utilizing the GPIO board for my 4L60E, I will put the VB's in that box... You WILL have to do wasted spark for COP on a 6 banger or V8. I am going to drill the back of my dampner and put in 12 magnets (one backwards) and use the MSII wheel decoder for my COP setup. My '83ZXT has the engine and T5 out, tearing down engine compartment to fix inner fender/battery tray/pass firewall, will then paint entire engine compartment, then start on all bodywork and paint for exterior. Hopefully by March will have it MSII'd with GPIO and intercooled, all back together for SEZ!

'75 280, currently no engine or tranny. Will get turbo'd V8 after I have the '83XT rust repaired, painted, intercooled and MS'd...but it has rusted floors and rear quarter...

For street, I vote the SFP manifold - lower volume and looks like smaller runners too. If the Greddy runners WERE equal length, I' might give it the nod. If it were an all out drag car, I'd go w/the Greddy.

Tread depth is a major factor in hydroplaning resistance, as is tread pattern. I never let my tires get down close to Lincoln's head showing. I usually replace with at least 15-20k worthg of tread still on 'em, just because of rain.

Gabe: My '83. ZXT is about to get the battery tray/inner fender/firewall treatment too. The frame rail itself looks ok. I have a few other small areas of rust to patch, but not much. Warren & I will be yanking the engine out Sat. morning. I already have everything but the throttle shaft disconnected. I feel your pain... When this is done, it all gets new paint (doing it myself). If I can ever get my Powershot G2 to charge, I'll take pictures....

Congrats Deja! Us old coots still like to mess around fixin' up cars...

16x16 for VE in Alpha right now. About to get boost control. I'm going for it!

Ooooooooo, Am I glad I bought lots of copper wire for my basement a couple/three years ago, and already wired my 220V outlets (4 years ago). I'll still probably need to get more wire, but not until I do the Media room. I have enough to wire up the workshop right now....just never have time. Wish I could help with a source.

Enhanced Acceleration Enrichment. http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Tuning_Manual.html#EAE Apparently, the manufacturers utilize this strategy to minimize problems. Been reading a bit on it - that combined with other new concepts has my head spinning!

Have you looked at using EAE?

Looks like he has the import size injectors - 14mm is > .5 inch. I'd say he has 11mm injectors - Japanese Import size - not American. That tool will be too big... http://www.rossmachineracing.com/injectortool11mm.html is the 11mm one...

Bummer: I forgot, just went out and looked after jacking car up and the bac of tranny is above the cat shield - can't see it.

I used to live in Charlotte, Hickory and Gastonia - didn't care for Gastonia. What part of or where in Charlotte is the business located - that might help those that know the area give you the best info on where to look.

Ya'll are right - MS does need the potentiometer type switch. I have one off of a 240sx that has both types of output connectors - potentiometer and 2 position. You can also use one off a Stanza...