madkaw

Post up pics of your other work!

So got the trans back but engine wouldn't go past 4300. It was like hard ignition Rev limiter. Anyhow, just for others that might run into this , it turned out to be my VR circuit inside my MS. There was pots that are supposed to be adjusted a certain amount of turns . There was a place to measure voltage to make sure the pots were adjusted properly and mine was off by 1v. This is a pull up voltage circuit so that 1v didn't allow my CAS to work properly. FYI

Very nice Ryan. With regards to the fuel routing subject- I am trying to figure yours out?

1.65" intakes

So my engine runs perfect with the old dizzy and wires. What I did discover when swapping over and restarting the engine was that my battery was shot. 5 years old and killed many times. Makes me wonder how much of an issue that was causing with my MS3X

I actually have the set that came with the Mikuni kit, but didn't use them. They are very short so starting a nut on them is a bitch. I shaved down some older studs that had shorter threads on one end of the stud. I probably could have used the shorter Mikuni ones if I didn't thread them all the way in, but I didn't like that. Another words you will find a very small amount of error is allowed when sizing them because they will run into the runners .

I wouldn't put to much weight on what the short runner will or will not do. My car felt plenty torquey down low and would pull all the way to 7K-and it's a 2.4. The Mikuni shorty manifold is a bitch as far as mounting . It also has clearance issues with the thermostat housing which i believe I covered. I also would not worry about gasket matching the runners. The anti-reversion is there for a reason.

I'm with Leon, go with the P90. Better combustion design than the 47 and the CR loss would be made up with running more aggressive timing on the P90. I'm betting your friend was running dished pistons. The progression to turbo would be easier.

I'll be watching. Check out FAQ on head building. Back of the exhaust seat is a nasty area. Liners flow well. Unshrouding would be paramount- IMHO. On a stock bore L28 I might even consider notching for more breathing. I'm going to run stock 165 valves first time around with lots of breathing room.

Cleaned up my vacuum log hoses. Mounted straight on to the intake. Run my MAP sensor PCV,and brake booster.

Cleaned up my vacuum log hoses. Mounted straight on to the intake. Run my MAP sensor PCV,and brake booster.

Cleaned up my vacuum log hoses. Mounted straight on to the intake. Run my MAP sensor PCV,and brake booster.

Wow, over a year since I posted here. Life and a shitty rebuild got in the way. After much troubleshooting I eliminated the MS as any part of my issue and dug into the engine mechanicals. A year later, the engine is back together and it fired up fine with the MS . Without going thru all the drama, I had valve issues from best I can tell, and it caused erratic behavior. When I tore things down I was smart enough to take pics of the flywheel location with respect to #1 and my CAS, so when I put things back together all the stars were aligned and timing was correct. The only adjustment was to the CAS. I had no spark at first, but turning in the CAS a little closer to the flywheel brought it back to life. All was good until F.O.D.(foreign object damage for you non-military types) took out my CAS sensor. Another long story, but I learned that my 25$ sensor will take a beating and keep ticking. The mount( JB welded in place) is what actually gave out and caused running issues. Even with a loose CAS mount, the engine ran good except over 4k. At 4k ,it felt like a hard rev limiter was kicking in and the engine would fall flat on it's face. So a lesson learned about CAS; there are levels of failure with the sensor. Always thought they either worked or didn't, but there can be an in between. So realizing that my JB job was not bullet proof( but pretty damn close), I decided to weld the mount in place. The issue before was that the sensor is supplied with very thin SS locking nuts. No luck trying to weld them. The 12mmX1mm nut is not at Lowe's either, but Fastenal actually could get the proper steel nut for me. So these nuts had some BEEF to them so I could weld this puppy in place and never worry about the mount again. Killing some time waiting on my trans to get reworked(another drama), I have been working on coming up with a cam sensor so I can run sequential. Not a big priority, but thought it would be a refinement for down the road. I had noticed looking at cam sensor set-ups on various engines that the jeep 4.0 L6 had the same timing cover/dizzy front mount. When I started looking into them deeper i thought i might be able to adapt. Ebay to the rescue! Complete new sensor assembly top to bottom was 24$ shipped, can't go wrong. After getting the assembly I started to dismantle the driveshaft and gear. Wouldn't you know the main body slips PERFECTLY into an original dizzy pedestal. So the hard part will be to adapt the drive mechanism from the Datsun oil driveshaft to the Jeep shaft. The shaft on the Jepp sensor is digger diameter, so there will be some adapting, but that can be made up with the coupler bushing on a Datsun dizzy coupler. I was able to machine out the original bushing to fit the bigger jeep shaft. The tricky part is to cut the jeep shaft to match the "tang" on the datsun shaft. I was able to rough something out that worked, but i need to perfect it better. In the end, I think this will work nicely and be a cheap sensor set-up.

Don't think that's a DIY job

Rtv around seam areas in block/timingcover/ rear main, no where else

Almost a year later: where should I start. Block- as suspected, was overbored and wasn't properly honed . Aftermarket piston size was right at .030 over, so clearance spec put rings at large gap. After second hone piston to bore was .0045- too much. Head: uneven rocker wear causing uneven cam wear and side loading of valve guides. Since new guides were installed on the original build I would say the guides were not in perfect. Guides were off just enough for uneven wear. Intake valves showed extensive wear for 12000 miles. Exhaust valves didn't show same wear. All valves ( SI , I believe),we're installed on original rebuild. I also believe valve stem seals were not installed correctly leading to build up on back of valves. MACHINIST ADMITTED HE DID NOT DO A SWIPE ON THE LASH PADS.This would have all been prevented if he knew what he was doing. Another words - shitty rebuild. This time around I pulled the original block out and had it properly bored and honed. Replaced rockers,cam , intake valves with stock Nissan.

Glad to hear

Just rebuilt my L24. Different block, same head and accessories - oil pressure reads normal. I'm guessing I had a partial blockage in the block or head that drove up the pressure. Idles around 10psi and follows rpms.

Disregard the shiny links unless you have the timing cover off to count pins. You might just have to pull the timing cover and start over. Why pull the head unless no compression.

I hope you said something. The bad is that everyone at Isky says "datsun!, you need to talk to Ron". So I lost a day and a half waiting to contact an owner over such a trivial question. Happy to talk to Ron, but if Isky modern enough to send info in a PDF file, then the data should be accessible to someone for verification. I was 30 degrees off, lucky no Collison there.

Thanks for the info. What I had going on is 2 different valves. Stock Nissan intakes and aftermarket exhaust. Tried to get them as close as possible to each other . Just running 2 different lash pad sizes. The machinist didn't want to sink valves much more and or only take a few off the stems. Without knowing how deep the hardness is on the stem tips it would be risky for more than a touch. Learned a lot from doing this head- TWICE Nissan stuff is good enough for my power levels. Find a machinist that is knowledgeable about Nissan solid lifter geometry. Next head will be new enough to have steel guides and seats so that battle will be done. Then order a cam kit from Rebello with lash pads and springs complete. Looking forward to my MN47 /L28 with newly earned knowledge.

This is a regrind I bought. I thought the whole idea of the lash pads is to even things up? If all the lobes are swiping the same pattern on the rockers, aren't they close enough? I guess it would be ideal to have exactly the same stem heights, but you know it doesn't work out the way.

Here's the poop

Look at my MS3x install thread

Sorry Tim, Ron sent it as a PDF file and don't know how to attach that. I'm going to print it out and take a pic of the card. Yes the intake and exhaust run different shims if that does effect things. I appreciate the help . Wish I hadn't lost a whole day on bad numbers, but that's hot rodding I guess.