madkaw

Back of cam says l490. Ron asked about the numbers and never questioned whether it was a 490 or not.

Old news-but good to see it resurface. Every want to be Datsun builder should save and read this many times

and........the numbers are in. Cam card says Intake exhaust open 2.5BTDC open 40.5 BBDC Closed 40.5 BDC closed 2.5 ATDC My numbers on #3 hole sprocket Intake exhaust 3 BTDC 43 BBDC 39 BBDC 2 ATDC

Ron sent me a card via email. I will try and post it up. I am about 4 degrees retarded ,so I shouldn't have an issue getting it dialed in

Maybe I can get some free stuff for all this aggravation :0

Ron seems to be a nice guy. he says my cam card is WRONG for .050 Waiting on the call back with the right numbers.

With .008 lash EXHAUST SIDE 38 BBDC 15 BTDC Dial indicator is set up on exhaust side presently, so at 74 degrees BBDC there is no lift, and 38 degrees at .050 No lift indicated at closing point (36 ATDC) So I guess you were right about not being the same. I apologize but I haven't done this a lot and it's easy for me to get dyslexic

Sounds like my next build. Some cam grinders already have advance built in so check your numbers.

At .050 with no lash I am 0 TDC open and 50 atdc close

It's off on both sides , not exactly equal, but close.

L24 with a Isky L490 grind cam. Previous experience degreeing Schneider cam, so I have done this before. Double and triple checked TDC. Checked with head off and with piston stop. Timing marks(stock) line up correctly on cam and crank. Checked and triple checked links on timing chain which is pretty new. Timing on intake valve is retarded like 30+ degrees. I've tried with and without lash clearance to arrive at Isky numbers-no go. I've tried a different or newer dial gauge. I have an adjustable cam sprocket, but I wouldn't be able to gain these kind of numbers by just an adjustment. It seems to me I would have to skip teeth on crank or cam to gain 30+ degrees. Waiting for CA time to call Isky. Intake opens at about 5 degrees ATDC and should be about 30 BTDC Any suggestions-PLEASE!

I have read about bigger cams being run on stock flat tops. You are going to get replies telling to check clearance and not rely on guess work. The duration will get you in trouble more than anything. Just make sure you get it timed in correctly.

Relating to this topic, my head is about done at the machine shop, but 3 lash pads don't show contact all the way across with a wipe test. It's like the previous issue I had, but we swapped rockers, lash pads and retainers and the wipe is still to one side at the valve. So the valve is not machine correctly, or the top of the valve is not straight? What would be the next step to troubleshoot this?

From what I had studied in the archives here on Hybridz, you don't get enough quench pad with the e31 to fight detonation. I too blended the spark plug area and anything else to avoid sharp edges.Maybe with a controllable FI you could run it fat and get by. My e31 is staying on my L24 not going to try it on the L28. I'm putting my money and time in on MN47 for a hot L28 NA motor.

42 degrees?????

Well glad to see all the progress on the console, but doesn't help us BW t5 guys with fitment. Decided to just update my console with some fab work. Found some pretty cool plastic sheet at Lowes that is supposed to be pretty tough. I cut out the partition of the console that separated the shifter hole to the access panel for the fuse box. It was already busted from the T5 shifter smacking it around. Just cut out a piece of plastic and cut and melted it into shape. Found an old box of bumper repair stuff(6 years old) and it l was still okay. Works great as a glue and filler and what some are using to repair their dashes-like I did. Anyway, after some adjustments on console position I cut a hole for the shifter. Not sure if 'm going to run a leather boot or not. The t5 rubber doesn't look bad by itself. I eliminated the choke slot and I painted the console with Sems texture to try and duplicate finish. I painted it but I need to do some more coats. I will shoot some more pics when done.

So what about the frame, are you making everything fg ? When I talked to my fg guy we kind of agreed that for what little weight saving we would keep the frame to simplify things. No chance of screwing up mounting points and a LOT less fab. What about the deletes? Are you doing the glove box later ? Or is this just a race dash with no heater and glove box?

Pcv and for my Map sensor

Looks like you have too many options and it will be hard to choose-not a bad problem I guess. I would think the e31 with 1mm gasket on a stroker will be at the edge of the CR limits. Sounds like you have full spark control so that will be an advantage to control detonation. Mikuni manifold looks familiar!

I did get 1 good from the two! The bent valve didn't hurt the guide, so I swapped the valves over from the warped the head to the rusty. The head came back from the machine shop about .012 lighter-there goes the CR!

Still using your flow bench? I've read articles about this flow bench and considered doing this. Did you ever make your sized bores?

Loving this Hybridz team project. Not enough skills to contribute though-lol

Might add to the Oreck method that make sure you start with a clean bag in your vacuum. My reading the second time around were not stable. I thought I should check the bag and sure enough it was plugged full. New empty clean bag cleared that up. Feeling pretty good about the carbs I moved on to changing up the vacuum log. I shortened things up so I could keep the vacuum hoses from running all over the engine bay(it seemed). this will look some cleaner when all together!!

CR should be 10.65 based on 39cc chambers. Got another mn47 that wasn't warped, just rusted and a bent valve :0 At the machine shop getting a valve job and surfaced. Sticking with stock valve size for now and will dyno . I might unshroud the exhaust side a little, it's really tight. Plan on swapping all parts from warped head to rusty head= 1 good head job!

I have a head at the machine shop that was a victim of bad rockers. The two surfaces of the rocker were not parallel and the rocker sat crooked on the valve. It wasn't caught because the rocker was only swiped tested at the cam, which looked good. So my question is - do you just Dykem the wear area on top and bottom of the lash pad when checking? Since the rocker just moves up and down on the valve side, does the wear Dykem test work as well there too? Trying to make sure I get this right