madkaw

You say the sleeves are longer off the car, but it's bad if they are longer on the car?

I guess I learned something today about bushings. I was really thinking it would be better for the sleeve to rotate because you wouldn't want any binding of the ID of the urethane against the sleeve . Having a hard time wrapping my head around it for some reason.

Okay guys, help me out here. I took off the rear control arms and suddenly noticed the length of my inner bushing sleeve( steel sleeve) was longer then the control arm pivot. So that tells me that my sleeve is not rotating on the control arm because it is locked in place by the cap bolt. I guess I have the wrong ones ? I'm going to trim the sleeve down and put it back together. Comments?? Also, talked to a buddy who said his urethane bushings on the rear control arm( inner) is one piece where mine is two pieces. What do you guys have.

I think I'm going to give that a shot. I remember installing them and the tolerance was so tight on the steel sleeve that it seemed that the supplied lubricant just squeezed out when assembling. I think length wise groove(s) coming off the zerk would help. It would be great to have another set of fine grooves running around the bushing ID to spread the lube around. I always wondered how well anti-seize would do. I have this permatex shit that won't hardly come off your hands if you get it on you. By the way- I have a loud exhaust and stereo- still not cutting it.

I'll second Leon's comments for Clive. Getting rid of those wires sure looks great and very clean!

This has been covered on a thread before. Not telling you to search, but it was dealt with in detail before and I don't have an accurate answer for you.

Looks like a 1.25mm HG is in order to get you in a good spot. Did you shave any off the block?

That's exactly what my machinist did- didn't know if I got that across in my explanation or not. Some of my rockers were off .014 + in that little area , I should say most if them were off some what and 2 were off really badly. You can actually see the wear pattern on the cam lobes too. Great video and thanks for posting

Well crap- the inner LCAs are the ones that make all the noise I believe

Thanks for the ideas and links. So I guess I will have to clean off all that sticky shit that's on there now and trim the bushings? I will look at the link provided since you said it had pics. I can deal with the harsher ride, but I can't deal with my car sounding like a jalopy going down the road.

Thanks John, I'm about ready to go back to rubber. I think I would be willing to give up the small amount of handling to have back some cushion and no squeak maintenance . There's nothing like having a sweet ride that sounds like a wagon

I know this isn't old news but... I have black bushings that I purchased many years ago. I have read the black ones are graphite impregnated , but is that true with all? I have re lubed the bushings with lots of lube and after a while they squeak again. Is there a way to tell visually that they have graphite?

My set up will use stock 5.3 wires. I will eventually get a pic of it. Wherever you put them it seems there is hardly enough room!

Thanks for the ideas guys. Dan, I've seen setup s like yours before. Only thing I don't like is having all the harness above the coils. I'm working on an aluminum 2" square bracket that bolts to the block where the heater hose attaches. It's a shame those 585 coils are such a funky shape, it makes it a challenge to set up

Would you share how you mounted your coils also? I am attempting to mount the d585 truck coils myself and using MS3x to run everything. I think I have my coils mounted worked out but would like to see others

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-2004-Ford-Mustang-V6-3-8-3-9-OEM-Stock-60-mm-Throttle-Body-w-TPS-Sensor-/230777068197 This looks like a great candidate. Genuine OEM with sensor

Exactly. Modulation at the tip in of the throttle gets harder to control because even a slight throttle increase of a large TB is letting in a lot of air. Not a problem if you are always flooring it:) but as a daily driver might be hard to dial in .That's why I asked about the driving characteristics of your car. What TB are you using?

Glad to hear the 70mm is working well for you. Can't tell if your serious or not with the Tip-in comment, but I am guessing you are not having any drivability issues with your set up. No issues easing into the throttle or any transitional throttle issues? 70mm is overkill from a math standpoint based on engine size.

Okay- I took that for granted . I always zero out the leads

Say what? You should always check for 0 ohms before measuring. Never heard of testing or measuring the tester leads. Then you better test the tester that tested your test leads:0 You have a stock coil to try out as suggested?

Done a ohm test on the coil. Sounds like spark isn't holding up under load. Should be some specs to compare to for that MSD Blaster coil.

I wasn't shooting for the biggest I could go . I have read that too big will cause the tip in issues like said, and my engine won't flow enough for anything bigger then probably a 60mm. Money wise, I thought 100$ was decent for a new unit that already had the mounting plate made to weld to my plenum. A few bucks more to save time and aggravation of machining out a mounting plate. Not sure about the reason of cable or no cable linkage. I thought cable was the only option. I did find some 65mm units on eBay, but that's about as small as I found for these CNC versions. I will continue to look at OEM versions. Thanks for the input guys.

25$ at the pick n pull I'm presuming . Then I would have to fab a plate for the intake to mount the TB. 240sx? 70mm to big you think?

Sounds like you need to figure out what you have first. You need to find out what has been done with your L28 and head. Don't waste money on boring the l28 out if it has already been rebuilt. Have the head CC'd to find out what your CR is. Best bang for the buck would be to send the Head off to be massaged with a strong cam and mild relief work-the power is in the head. Compliment that with headers, exhaust, carbs, etc... SU carbs are also great, especially if they have been worked, and very easy to tune. Triples might be frustrating if you are going to rebuild a set yourself and try and go fast. They do require some carb knowledge to make them work right. Gearing will also make things fun. Tune, tune,tune, it takes the whole package to make it fun. http://youtu.be/NGh6urUlzcQ

An engine swap is going to add lot's of expenses that will be hard to account for right now. Sticking with the L28 will save hassle=money. Triples and a HOT cam would probably be the best bang for buck. Do some more research. I know there's an overwhelming amount of info, but there are specific threads on 2jz install and costs. There is also a ton of stuff on camming an L motor. From a strictly cost stance-I could of had a V-8, but like you, I don't want one. I just traded out cars for a drive--- my triple Mikuni l24 for a stock 1977 l28. My car felt much stronger, but the increased CC of the L28 helped even things out. You might consider megasquirt . Performance tuning a FI L28 should produce good results.