seattlejester

Welcome to the forums. Remember to take a moment and browse through the forum rules and quirks to make sure you have a trouble free time here! Depends on how much you spend. There was a local who was selling hopped up LS motors for around 5k, throw in the T56 and some bits and that alone could take 10k. On the flip side if you find a used drive train and want to hang around the stock levels you used to be able to buy camaros and firebirds for 2k or so in rough body shape. Suspension and brakes you can sink a lot of money into. You could refresh the stock brakes, and add some modern springs and shocks for under 1k, or you can go wilwood brakes front and rear and full techno toy for 5k or so. Body work also can take quite a bit, a local was quoted 2k for just the sheet metal replacement of the floors so depending on the shop or area you can extrapolate from there. Keep in mind you will most likely have to redo the fuel system if the current engine is carb'd. An LS over a V8, I'm not sure is worth the extra effort at this current point in time. If it runs, refresh the suspension and enjoy it and find out what it needs and make your own decisions. Doing what someone else tells you is a good idea may not be the right fit for you in the end.

Mine sits on the passenger side, no issues. As long as there is a good air gap between them it should be ok. If you are concerned run heat protection as neverdone suggests or use TXL or GXL wire.

Or a g-machine ball and socket setup. I'd say from down right stupid to ideal. Weld it to the frame, poly bushings both sides, modified poly bushing both sides, poly 1 side/rubber 1 side, rubber both sides, rubber 1 side/ball and socket, rod-end, a-arm style arm.

I think the width of the super charger keeps it from playing nicely with the hood. It will mostly close. The car I'm thinking of I think has 2-3 inch spacer on the back side.

Yes, and no. A roots type will not fit under the stock hood at least in the swap I'm thinking of. A centrifugal I imagine would.

If AFR's are good for the most part, then it would fall onto the timing short of another mechanical malady. You have to confirm your trigger settings. I believe it is cam driven distributor in stock form. My motor is from an SC300 non vvti and I don't recall a crank sensor, where are you taking your crank signal from? This isn't a stock ECU so you need to confirm the spark trigger offset that it is reading and firing at. Without doing this your timing table will be shifted by the offset amount. Your accel enrichment dot threshold is pretty darn low. Might be causing false accel enrichment events. Your accel enrichment threshold under 2000 is a bit odd, basically no enrichment above 2000rpm, so off of idle you don't have any enrichment, unless you have it built into your fuel map.

Gas tank picture with a bit more lighting, I'll have to get it in the air to take a good picture to show location and fitment next time I get on a lift. It has been a while. I bought a new daily driver that has needed some work, and I started up school again in addition to work which has sapped a lot of time. The new member of the family. I needed something on the small side for city driving, that I could have a little fun with on occasion. It's been pretty good so far. The AC is the only real problem which is hopefully getting addressed soon, and I've replaced some wear parts, and I have a stack of some shiny upgrades will be making there way on as time allows. On to making the datsun pretty and more pleasant all around. Exhaust is definitely good, needs an additional hanger, but it is pleasant enough to drive without necessitating ear plugs, and with the windows up you can collect your thoughts. Still enough of a growl to turn heads. Cleaned up the front radiator mount a little bit, friend Tig'd some new moounts for my intercooler to replace the washers I tacked in there ages ago. Tire letters are in the process of coming off, and I think the rims may need a re spray. There is also a list of flaws from an outsider that has been generated that will systematically be addressed.

I don't know about bending the bottom like that. I feel like the pivot and the ball angle just moved and it may bind with the cup now. If the console is precious, take it off and just run a shift boot or a non series one center.

Hmm, did you have different inner tie rod ends or were they the factory ones with the tape on them? Both ones I have seen have a strange like 3 flats style, so I wasn't sure how you would get a wrench onto it. The new inners look like what you have and seem like they would take a big adjustable wrench.

Ooh, interested to see how you get the tie rods off, I too have a set sitting in a box that I never got around to.

Nice to see you on here! Maybe you will be enticed into something during your stay :D.

I would not do the CJ cave adapters. The one made by the guy on here is more correct in the inverted offset design. mt nickel? (spelling incorrect) would be a better alternative. The drive axles are under a lot of rotation. Couple that with imperfections on the road and you get vibrations. I'm running adapters and even with loc-tite I find them loose every couple of months. I have yet to try red as I imagine they will need to come off at some point and I don't want to even think about trying to remove a sheered grade 12 bolt. The solution would be to drill the bolts for safety wire and run multiple lock mechanisms.

You guys and your S300's are just nuts lol. Looks like a nice bit of progress!

I'd echo the above, the stub axles would be my worry more so than the diff. I've tried drifting the Z in a formal setting and even in the hands of some experienced individuals it is a handful. Really short angle makes it hard to catch snap transitions. Not saying it isn't doable, a few people have done so, albeit usually with extensive modification, but it may be best to start or consider running more replaceable suspension if you are married to idea of Z drifting. That is convert to S chassis front suspension and consider a rear end swap either via TTT or a 8.8 conversion. Both options could be sorted on a budget with a lot of research and fabrication. Manual rack is going to be a bit trouble some on slow speed corners and when it snaps back in a Z it will be hard to catch and given where you sit (right in front of the rear wheels) it will also be disorienting. We stopped taking passengers real fast on the donut exercise, even the figure 8 was a bit much.

My 0.02 for what it is worth. You may want to reinstall the seats and see if you have enough movement. I ended up cutting my bar and base out for an extra 2-3 clicks on the seats and I am not that tall of a person. That rear kick down is also pretty low. You don't see much out of the rear quarters, but that bar is smack right in the middle of it. Not to mention I don't believe you are supposed to have curvature on the rear legs like that if you think the cage will come into play at any point. An interesting thing I heard about the dimple die plates on cages from a builder was that it is the sign of poor fitment. While they look cool and have function, compared to having the cage butt right up to the pillar and if needed welding the cage directly to the pillar which is cleaner, saves weight, and improves visibility, the dimple dies are sub optimal. He said he uses them when he does cages for customers as the turn around is usually pretty fast or they don't approve of cutting access holes to drop the cage or for installs, but on personal vehicles or projects with more time he opts not to use them.

NewZed is correct, GM bushing up top and the pyramid snubber on bottom. Not sure with the parts in question. T3 mustache bar I recall had a misalignment issue some have encountered. Using a snubber on the diff mount and the RT mount to hand the differential would allow for some adjustment. I'll search for that T3 thread in question.

The dream is exactly what it is, no need for rationale behind it. Someone could want to put a 12 inch lift kit on a Z and take it rallying, and some may want it so low that lane dividers become obstacles. Whatever the dream is, is whatever the dream is. Granted, removing everything but the vin is quite extreme lol.

My goodness, that is commitment!

Had an interesting thought and was curious what others consider to be their dream build. Mine would be: Early 240z L28 with Datsunworks twin cam head ITB's Hoke CD009 adapter CD009 TTT rear end conversion Quite a bit different from what I currently have, wonder if others would have gone a different route or stayed the same.

Hello, Welcome to the forums. Please take a moment to look over the Announcement section for general forum rules and quirks. Please note you have posted in the FAQ section which does not allow for responses. Take a moment to make sure you are posting in an appropriate area. For a full restoration a 10k budget is on the low end depending on how much you want to replace. If you are looking for a resto-mod depending on the route you go you could use that all on the engine and transmission easily. Take a look around at other people's builds and see what you want, whether that has to do with aesthetics (wheels, ride height, bumpers, etc) or activity (road race, drift, autox, drag racing, car shows). Do lots of reading, build lists, someone could tell you what they think is right, but that may not be right for you. Best place to start would be the condition of the car you have. Pictures will be helpful. For example if the car is rusty, you may end up spending 5k on rust repair easily. Generally a stage 1 "upgrade" would modernize the car a bit and would generally consist of: Replacement aftermarket shocks and springs vogtland (Sp) or KYB and tokico springs Rebuild of stock calipers and drums Replacement of brake lines, wheel cylinders, master cylinders Headers for the engine Fluid flush (coolant, engine, transmission, differential, brake, clutch) Energy suspension bushings (except for the tension arm, DO NOT use poly bushings there in the stock configuration) Alternator upgrade Headlight relay upgrade Interior and brake light relay/upgrade Inspection and replacement of drivetrain bushings, upgrade to RT style mount for the differential Inspection and replacement of U-joints in drive shafts Make lists and figure things out for things in the future, say having the stock EFI system rebuilt will not be cost effective if you plan on swapping to an aftermarket ECU and bigger injectors and aftermarket fuel lines down the road. Headers would be wasteful if you plan on swapping to an L28ET down the road. Plan well and don't do things twice and you can make your budget go a little further.

If I could be so bold as to offer a suggestion. I would take this chance to use an RT mount style setup up top and a snubber on the bottom. Less leverage against the brand new T3 bar. There is definitely some variance as the RT mounts commercially sold usually have 3 holes per side to deal with the offset to help line up the differential.

Welcome to the forums. Please note you have posted in the FAQ section. This section does not allow replies. I have moved your post to the correct section. Please make a note of the announcements for further information regarding forum quirks and rules. The FSM has a pretty decent wiring diagram for what you are looking for. If you are unfamiliar with wiring or the use of a material I would suggest at least getting very familiar with the FSM and the wiring diagrams enlcosed within. http://www.xenonzcar.com Also keep in mind fuel pressure mismatch you will be experiencing going from car to FI.

Hello, Looks like you may have posted to the FAQ section which does not allow for replies. Take a moment next time to make sure you are in the actual forum section rather than the FAQ section, it has been an ongoing issue on the forum software. Brian

I've seen someone use them as anchor points for I think a ski rack that goes along the rear hatch. Not a big fan of them either, the clean rear bumper is just right especially since it matches the front, the over riders just make the rear look busier then it needs be in my own opinion as well.

Congrats! If you do plan on cutting the springs I'd just make sure to grab a set of metal CV ties to secure the springs so they don't fall off the perch or miss the hat on the top or run some limiters to keep the suspension from drooping all the way when you jack it up. I ran cut linear 280z tokico springs for a while in my 240z, but it consisted of lowering the car, stopping part way and slipping my hands between the wheel and the arch to align the spring then lowering it the rest of the way. Good way to loose a hand if it unsettles suddenly.