NCchris

Jon, FYI, I usually do things the hard way 🤯 I welded up one end of both spacers, took them to my friend's shop, turned excess off ID and OD, faced to +.005. Surface ground to length. Came home and re-assembled both assemblies. Problem solved. Chris

Thanks Jon, no, the torque drag thing makes no sense to me either. Endplay spec. is 0 to .0059! I made a tool to use a beam style torque wrench to measure rotational torque. Spec. is 3.9 in-lb. I was getting 25+ before torquing. My spacers are short by .003-.004. I think that is my problem. Guess I'll have to make some. Thanks! Chris

Replacing rear wheel bearings along with a turbo cv halfshaft and companion flange upgrade. When torquing the axle nut, the axle binds up way before the 200# torque is even close. Too tight! I searched and found this thread: My housing is stamped "B" and I have 4 spacers all marked "B", so that part is OK. Now for my problem, all 4 spacers are mushroomed and short by .003-.004. Is there a source to purchase these? Would shimming be a suitable repair? Thanks in advance for any reply. Chris

Because of numerous good reviews elsewhere and this post, I have landed on this product for the bottom of my Z. I would kinda like the bottom of my car to be the same color as the rest of it. Do you think this stuff is paintable? Currently, the bottom is freshly coated in epoxy primer after sanding to bare shiny metal. Now is the time to do whatever I am going to do. So, paint it or leave it black? Thanks for any info. Chris

My early 260 does not have that hole.

Anyone have any experience with this harness? This is for my S30 which is a mostly street/weekend car. It does have a 4 point roll bar with a harness bar. It supposedly has "anti submarine technology" which could help in the event of a frontal collision. Harness here Thanks in advance, Chris

Thanks Jon, that's what I thought!

Hello! Let me first say that I have searched for an answer and no luck. I was wanting to use a 3 AN bulkhead fitting to go through the inner fender since the flex line to the calipers is 3AN. The 3/16 hardline can be connected to the other end of the bulkhead fitting using a tube fitting and a nut. The hardline will need to be flared 37 degrees to match the AN taper. Herein lies my question: does this 37 degree flare need to be the double flare as the rest of the fittings in the car? TIA, Chris

Why yes, I do own a Z, 74 260 still on rotisserie. Has been an on and off project for several years. During this time I had a 280Z and a 300ZX. Sold both. Loved the 300ZX! Since I am furloughed from work, I have been almost full time on the Z. Enjoy your build, nice car! Chris

Nice build! Excellent documentation! I like the look of a 2+2 with a shaved rear. Gonna keep that or add the 240 bumper? Where are you in NC? I'm in Asheboro. Chris

You guys might want to look at what 240hoke is doing with Mat's install. He's a real engineer and a real nice guy! See his work at: https://www.facebook.com/hokeperformance chris

225/50 on 16 X 8 wheels will fill the stock fender-wells. It's actually a lot of tire under our small light cars. If you go with flares later, you will probably want more rim width and rubber to fill them out. chris

Hey Aux, You didn't mention the 9" Ford for the rear. You gonna fab a 4-link or just hook it to the stock suspension? chris

I do not have anything else to add that hasn't already been said. I can only say that johnc will be missed! Godspeed and Rest in Peace! chris

I think I would notify Arizona Z Car before I did anything. That doesn't look right. I'm thinking that hole should be perpendicular to the top and bottom face of the part. I have a pair of the Datsun original forged short knuckles and they are just like stock except the tie rod hole is closer to the ball joint than stock. chris

I built my own 350 with the help of the local automotive machine shop. My friend bought a GM 290 HP 350 crate motor for his 66 Chevelle and another friend put the same motor in his 37 Terraplane. Both installs went well and are quite peppy. Both vehicles are street driven mostly. chris

Is the bearing race a somewhat "loose" fit as opposed to a "press" fit in this area? If so see: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fretting Sorry, link fairy not working today. chris

Since you are wanting to do coil overs, floors and frame rails, you need a welder! Buy yourself a MiG welder that uses gas and get a bottle. Practice, practice, and practice some more. Do your own welding because it is going to be difficult to even find someone who will tackle floors and frame rails for less than the cost of the welding machine. My .02 centavos. chris

Can usually find something here. Might have to use one or two adapters/fittings. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3 chris

Just like I always said: Anything worth doing is worth doing to excess! Damn good job! chris

Check with http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123357-half-shaft-sale/ Could be day late and dollar short..... chris

Bet the guys driving the supercars had no clue what you and your son were rollin, much less the dedication required to (re)build and maintain the Z! As I said earlier, good job! chris

Man, that turned out beautiful! I wish I could see it in person in the sunlight! Hate to think what your restoration must have cost in both dollars and elbo grease but, the result is well worth it! Good job! chris

Check Black Dragon? http://www.blackdragonauto.com/zZxCatalog.htm chris

Nice looking car. Hope the rest of it is as good as the outside looks! chris