Globerunner513

I'll be turning 21 at the end of the month, and am thinking about getting into the scene as well. I got a chance to receive some professional training in handguns a couple years ago at a local range, from a former military trainer. One gun we shot was an open competition Beretta. Was pretty impressed with it. Although it was worked to high heaven and had the trigger weight of a feather. I'd be interested in models to check out as well.

This looks like a fun game. I'll think about it on my way home...

same here. Except i used fiberglass to fill in the holes from behind. (no welder) No pre-made panel that I know of.

Impressive work, but im wondering how much its going to weigh... I guess it could be the spruce goose of supercars.

Maximum Boost by Corky Bell for any and all knowledge on how Turbos work, and applications.

Good to see more NW members on here. There should be a few threads with good interior pictures. Also, the pieces really only go together one way. The vinyl goes down first, and the plastic pieces lay over it. you should have something like: 2 rear strut tower/wheel well vinyl 2 quarter window covers 2 rear quarter panel covers 2 door panels 2 vinyl panels which cover up the area just behind the doors and in front of the QT windows Vinyl behind seats infront of the cargo bin areas. Thats about all i can think of off the top of my head. If you need any interior pieces, I have some extras from my parts car I'll be selling in a few weeks.

I spy with my little eye, something that starts with 'R'... but it looks like you're gonna have one CLEAN car when you're done with it.

Top clicker Matrix or Star Wars?

I liked how the guy underneath got dragged out by his feet LOL. A good performance if nothing else.

Happy Bday Braap!

there have been a few people on here who have had good results with the roller method. good cheap/easy way to get color on a car.

This is just what I used. It's what I was told to do by the guy who did my paint job. I started with a really heavy cut. You'll use a lot of it, so buying one of these isn't a bad deal. These are the products I used. Hopefully it gives you an idea of what to look for. #1 Speed Cut Compound Heavy cut to take out the sandpaper scratches. Used with wool buffing pad. A mustard bottle worked out perfect to use and fill from the above posted tub. #2 3M Perfect-It III 05930 Machine Glaze Medium cut to take out the first cut. Used with foam pad. #3 Swirl Free Polish Final cut to take out swirl marks and any marks left from the medium cut. Used with foam pad

personally, I thought i really liked it when i got it. And while I do still like it, I've grown far more fonder of the 240z bumper and airdam.

I must be behind the barcode...haha Oh well. A very nice selection of cars none the less.

For my car, I also have a significantly smaller steering wheel than stock, and thus takes a little more work to turn it at low speeds. I just try to avoid parallel parking at all costs lol.

lol I like the 4 turn signals. Looks neat. This is the MSA II on my car. Although, personally I like the 240z bumper/airdam the best.

That would be so frustrating^ I'm one of the less intelligent ones though, cause although I have Canadian citizenship, I still haven't applied for a passport

HAHA just kidding. CONGRATULATIONS! *thanks to my parents, Im dual citizen. Its fun to joke about a bit lol*

It was a leaking heater core. It fogged up my windows when it was cold at night and LOL...i just now got what you guys were alluding to. HAHA!

^ yeah, on my buffer I have the speed turned down as low as it can go.

Thanks for clearing those things up 240zwannabe. Obviously I'm no expert so i'm glad someone with some professional experience chimed in on this one.

another trick i was told is to use just a tiny bit of dish soap in the water. This gives a nice slick surface for the sandpaper to run over, and also helps to clean the surface/sandpaper.

When I wet sanded my car i used 1500# and then re sanded it with 2000#. Then I used a 3 stage buffing system. The first cut is used with a wool buffing wheel. Then the next 2 are used with foam buffing wheels. You should search and read about color sanding and buffing techniques. I'm guessing you are wet sanding after you sprayed the clear coat correct? There are ways to color sand each layer of base coat before the clear coat, but that is usually for higher end paint jobs. The whole idea of wet sanding is to smooth out the CLEAR coat, without going into the paint. If it still looks good when water is over it, that is a good sign. What you are trying to do is to sand out the orange peel. When you first start sanding, you will notice slight ripples or bumps in the area you sanded. You want to keep going until the surface looks uniform, but don't do one spot too much. You want to be sure not to bust through the clear coat, and have enough clear left over to protect the paint. Don't apply any pressure when sanding either. Just let the sand paper do the work. Now I am far from an expert, but I would suggest getting some higher grit sandpaper, like a 1500 or 2000 or even higher if you want. Sand until you can't see any scratches left over from the previous grit. Then you'll want to take your buffing compound, and use a generous amount of it, and start buffing it in with an electric polishing wheel. Don't let it dry. Do small segments at a time, about a square foot section. When done, wipe it away with a clean dry cloth (I used a microfiber) and then continue. There are some really good write ups on the site if you search for it. Here's some pictures to help you get started. You want to be VERY careful with the edges, as they are the most vulnerable to being sanded through to paint. So I covered them with automotive painter's tape as i was sanding. After polishing an area

GREAT photo documentary! looks like an awesome trip. I can't wait to go back.

LOL I worked at an ExpressLube...hrmmm