Miles

Just use a 1979 280xz MC as it bolts on and it has the correct metric threads in the output ports. The downside of going to a larger bore MC is that the pedal will be stiffer and requires more foot pressure to stop. This can be corrected on the 240z that uses a 7in. dia. booster by going to a larger 81/2 in. dia. 280z booster. If you do this booster swap you will need to swap the 240z booster push rod into the 280z booster so the booster push rod connects to the brake pedal like stock. My brake set up: Brakes are excellent. · Front:1979 Toyota 4x4 pickup S12+8 calipers with 240z stock solid rotors. · Rear: 1989 240SX calipers with 1984 non-turbo 300ZX solid rotors. Modern Motor Sports adapter bracket (NLA) · Master Cylinder: 1979 280ZX 15/16. sourced from Arizona Z Cars · Booster: 1977 280Z. Barely fits between throttle bracket and clutch MC (Wilwood Compact). Brake feel is excellent. · Brake Pads: Carbotech AX6. Excellent cold bite and does not fade when hot. Perfect daily driver pad.

Blocked them. Works like normal now. Thanks

Ads popping up continuously make it impossible to read Hybridz on my Android phone. They pop up with every selection while trying to navigate to a post. They pop up after selecting a post to read. It has become like an advertising link farm. Do I have to install an ad blocker to read posts on my android?

Go to ZTherapy and buy this video: “JUST SU’S” British HS6 and Hitachi “SU” https://ztherapy.com/just-sus/ Watch the video until you name every part and understand how the SU works. You are experiencing a lean condition. Note that the throttle shaft on the SU tends to wear out allowing air to leak into the carb causing a lean condition. This air leak makes proper mixture adjustment impossible. Contact Ztherapy for the fix.

Going auto 700r4 might be easier. The JTR book explains it. Done by many members here so there is lots of data.

Buy this book first There are a lot of details about the 240Z V8 auto to manual conversion you need to know before you start the project. Purchase and read the JTR V8 conversion manual. You can buy it here: https://jagsthatrun.com/collections/jtr-v8-conversion-manuals/products/copy-of-v-8-conversion-manual-for-volvo-200-series

1989 Camaro T5 mated to SBC 350 Basics 1. T5 transmission: The 1989 WC T5 transmission is tilted 15 degrees towards the driver. The 15 deg tilt is absolutely no problem, I have done two just cut away the trans tunnel as in the picture below. The tilt is not noticeable once center console is installed. Unless you want to make a special transmission mount, you will need an 89 Camaro T5 bell housing, driveshaft, flywheel, clutch pressure plate/disk, throw out arm, throw out bearing, clutch slave and a 7/8" clutch MC. Note that there is a V8 and a V6 version of the T5 transmission. They have different spline counts. You will need the V8 version. 2. Bell Housing: 1989 -90 bell housing for V8. Verify that the pivot ball is in place as that part is NLA. 3. Flywheel: 158 tooth flywheel: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/zzz-50-6516 4. Clutch Kit: Zoom High Performance Clutch Kits HP1675-1A https://www.summitracing.com/parts/zzz-hp1675-1a/applications/ 5. Clutch Hydraulic Components: Camaro Clutch Slave: Napa sells the Camaro clutch slave. https://www.napaonline.com/p/NCF73110 Clutch Master Cylinder: Both Tilton and Wilwood make 7/8in. clutch master cylinders. The Wilwood unit is more compact allowing use of a larger brake booster. Tilton 74-875U: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/til-74-875u Wilwood 260-10374: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-10374 6. Clutch Hose and Fittings: Hose: -3 A/N SS hose. Length TBD Roll pin to A/N SS line adaptor Russell 640281 (connects -3 A/N SS line to the Camaro slave): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640281 MC A/N SS -3 A/N line to 1/8in NPT adaptor Earls 961603ERL (connects -3 line to the MC): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-961603erl 6. Starter: Hitachi gear reduction starter or similar unit. 7. Complete 240z brake and clutch peddle assembly swap. 8 MSA/JTR transmission mount See my post of 12 June 18 second post down lots of pictures

My kit from Modern Motor Sports (out of business) used rear 240sx calipers and rear 1984 non-turbo 300zx rotors. I should have said rear. Have fun.

I solved rear end clunking in my 72 240z by replacing al of the rubber bushings with polyurethane bushings including the mustache bar mounts and solid mounting (MSA mount) the nose of the differential. Of course the differential is still a little playful, but every Z I have owned had a "loose" differential that would clunk when engaging the clutch. I learned to engage the clutch smoothly. No problems in 20 years. SBC 350 v8 Camaro WC T5 trans 78 280z r200 differential Chequered Flag stainless steel stub axles. Replaced the stock stub axles because the wheel mounting flanges were warped causing my rear 240sx caliper brake pads to rub on the rotors. Over heating rotors drove me nuts until I put a dial indicator gauge on the flanges and rotated the axle. Evidently the flanges are soft and can become bent/warped just hitting a curb or a pothole. Not a problem for drum brakes, but with disk brakes the rubbing can cause rotors to heat up.

yep

You don't need a proportioning valve.

" I do not have the window frame installed yet. " Install the window frame and adjust as needed. All frame bolts must be tight as they pull the frame into the correct geometry. Here is a book that I used to to do two 240z restomods. Gives details on how to disassemble, restore and reassemble a 240Z. Lots of pictures with step by step instructions. How to Restore Your Datsun Z-Car by Wick Humble available on Amazon

I never had success with Vintage Rubber hatch or windshield seals on two 240z projects. I ended up using stock OEM seals. I recall getting the OEM seals from Courtesy Nissan and Motor Sport Auto (MSA). The problems I had with Vintage Rubber were deformed corners making it impossible to install. I used the rope trick and installed the stainless steel center trim in the windshield and hatch seal before installing the seals using the rope trick. Also, Vintage Rubber door seals were too thick making it impossible to close the doors. I went to Pep Boys and bought generic door seals that squeeze onto the door opening pinch welds. The problems with Vintage Rubber seals has been known for over 20 years. Lots of info here on HybridZ. There is a company that makes the windshield and hatch seals without the center stainless trim.

Another option would be to use the 1979 Toyota 4x4 pickup front calipers for solid rotors which are plentiful and cheap. Using Carbotech AX6 pads with the Toyota calipers works well with my set up: 15/16 MC 9 inch dia 280z booster. Swapped the 240z brake pedal push rod into the 280z booster for stock connection to brake pedal. Front: Toyota calipers for solid rotors. Used SS braided line to connect hard line to caliper to eliminate the Toyota "S" tube. Rear: 89 240sx rear calipers with 1984 non-turbo 300zx rotors Carbotech AX6 pads front and rear

Might check with Carl Beck at Classic Z cars. Scroll down to Carl's post. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/44384-sumitomo-mk63-caliper-question/