Miles

Suggest that you make a wire list such as in the attached example. The wire list is for a 72 240Z. Confirm your 280Z wiring functions. If you are unfamiliar with the ignition/starter wire functions, test each wire with a volt meter while turning the ignition switch to each position on the switch. Note that the green-white wire was originally wired to the ballast resister on the 240Z. Check if this applies to the 280Z. This wire provided direct 12v to the distributor when the starter activated. Attach this wire to the output side of the oil pressure safety switch to run the fuel pump during cranking. This wire energizes at the beginning of the START position on the ignition switch and turns off when the key is released. If you test it with a volt meter, you will see that it energizes just before the starter begins to crank and de-energizes when the key is released to the ignition position of the switch. This is useful to energize the fuel pump while cranking and to fill the fill the fuel system when the car has sat for some time on carbed engines. The diagram in the JTR manual (7th ed) incorrectly shows connecting a jumper wire (black-yellow) from the starter S terminal to the output side of the safety switch. Do not attach the starter wire (black-yellow) to the OUTPUT side of the oil pressure safety switch. If you do, the starter will continue to crank once the oil pressure pressure safety switch closes. JTR warns of this in section 13-2 of the manual. I tested the oil pressure safety switch before installing the engine. It closes almost instantly when the oil pump starts turning. No problems after nine years. To avoid burning/straining/overloading the switch wire the output to a fuel pump relay. No problems after nine years. 240z Wiring Tag Numbers Table.xls

With the stock temperature gauge you have to use the original stock temp sensor with an adapter that screws into the manifold. If you use a temp sensor from a different car, the temp gauge will not read correctly. Same with the oil pressure sensor. MSA and JTR both sell the temp sensor adapter. MSA sells the temp and oil pressure sensors. So just buy everything from MSA. The plumbing for the oil pressure sensor and safety switch is all 1/8 in. NPT you can get at the local hardware store. My 240Z did not have a fuel pump relay, so I installed a Painless fuel pump relay kit and ran the safety switch to the trigger side of the relay. On the 240Z there is an unused green fuel pump wire above the passenger kick panel. The wire was intended for an electric fuel pump and terminates near the gas tank. Your 280Z may already be wired for an electric fuel pump. If not, Nissan may have also installed the green wire in the 280Zs as well. Note that the JTR manual is a little confusing on how to wire the oil pressure safety switch. PM me if you have questions.

Note that "A" is next to the return outlet. The answer is "A" because it is in the stream of water returning to the radiator from both sides of the engine. Also, it appears that you have already installed the temp sender in the correct location. The oil pressure sensor installs next to the distributor.

Year? 240Z 260Z? Carb? EFI? Soot or oil on plugs?

Search HybridZ for " L31"' I got 8 pages in response. May be something there or you could PM the member.

If you go the Painless route, some HybridZ members have documented how to wire the turn signal/light combination switch. I was considering this for my first 240Z project in which the POV had cut up the engine bay wiring. I was able to repair the wiring so didn't go Painless. Other wiring kits have been documented as well.

Random thoughts: Talk to a technician at Summit. The Summit techs have solved some problems during by build. Shimming might be a solution, but be aware that shimming the engine will reduce hood clearance. Note that the MSA trans mount allows for more flexibility for adjusting driveshaft angle because the mount fits up inside the driveshaft tunnel so you can can move the trans tail shaft several inches up/down to get the correct angle. Driveshaft angle is a simple, but critical issue when doing Z car engine swaps. The MSA engine mounts place the engine lower than the Scarab mounts, but not as low as the JTR install. I have done two MSA installs. My second install using MSA engine mounts had a clearance problem with the steering shaft. The driver's side mount touched the steering shaft and the shaft touched the exhaust header collector. Both cars were 72 240Zs. I suspect that the MSA driver's side mount bolt holes were mis-drilled allowing the mount to twist towards the engine. Engine-hood clearance issues - raise the bridge or lower the river.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/make/chevrolet/engine-family/chevy-small-block-gen-ii-lt-based-engines?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=1996 chevy v8 harmonic damper&N=4294943542%2B4294906826

Note: This is a common problem. Search HybridZ , hotrod and chevy blogs. Damper to steering rack spacing with 6.25 inch damper and MSA engine install is 0.47 inch. An 8 inch damper will not work with the MSA install.

So, here is the question: will the MSA kit allow me to keep the 8-inch damper? And will it drop the engine a bit lower to solve the hood issue? I installed a SBC 350 in two 240Z projects using the MSA kit. The MSA kit sits a bit higher and forward than the JTR kit. Here is the 6.25in damper I am using. Look at the the application tab and see if will work for you. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flu-620101 Tomorrow I will take some measurements and pictures and post them here.

And your plan is......................

On Maxima and 240SX calipers you have to make sure that the bleed valves are pointing straight up to get all of the air out. You can unbolt one side of the caliper and point the bleeder up. You must block the pistons from moving or you will blow them out of the cylinders when you step on the brake.

Does the pedal have long travel and the the brakes come on suddenly? Did you adjust the booster push rod that pushes on the MC piston? If it is too short you will have a long pedal. If it is too long it will cause the brakes to lock up after a few pumps of the pedal. Suggest you research the following HybridZ topics before doing anything more: Booster reaction disk falling out. There is a specific write up on the in the brake or FAQ sections. It is under (next to) your post in the brake FAQ. How to bench bleed a master cylinder. Brake booster push rod adjustment.

There has seemed to be some confusion over different pilot bearing types. There are basically two styles as indicated in the attached pictures. One is a bushing and the other is a bearing. Both styles can be a PITA to remove.

Your stated goal is for a driver and not a project car. So look for a driver that runs and drives reliably. If you want a 280zx try to find a cream puff that someone else has put money into. Otherwise you will be buying a money pit. If you can't do some of the work yourself, the project will become very expensive. Modern mechanics don't know how to work on 38 year old cars. You may have to travel some to find a 280zx that requires minimum repair/replacement. Shipping is an option for out of town cars.

The car is 35 years old. What is your budget for restoration and repair? Do you have the skills to do the repairs?

TYpical car stuff. Post your solution.

Try this blind hole bearing removal tool.

The grease approach only works if you get a good seal around a pilot bushing as with a SBC. On my SBC projects the grease technique worked on the pilot bushing well enough sometimes to move the bushing out enough to get a puller on it. Sometimes I had to chisel a groove in the bushing and then collapse it to get it out. None of this will work with a bearing. Try a different puller. Failing that, you may have to pull the flywheel and take it to a machine shop.

picture?

You didn't mention what type of headers you have. But you said that the headers are circular which suggests that you have block hugger style headers such as Hooker etc........................................ I have Hooker block hugger headers on my SBC 350. I have used the oval shaped header gasket for about 16 years. For example: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-5917 Other examples: https://www.holley.com/products/gaskets/header_gaskets/parts/10891HKR The attached picture is what I am currently using with my round port Hooker headers.

Actually a few members have installed back up switches.