Miles

Call modern motorsport and ask.

You are not "bench bleeding". You need to push the piston full stroke to eliminate air and pump enough fluid to reach the reservoir. With the MC held in a vise on the "bench" you will be able to push the piston full stroke. Go to the Brake forum and search for "bench bleeding" for the procedure.

Each of your questions has so many variables associated with it that most people will not be inclined to answer them. Search all of the FAQs and the forums first. Searching is your best bet:

Could be the turn signal switch. The internal contacts become bent or corroded and the signal stops working. You can repair it. Search for turn signal repair/not working etc. there are several threads with precise instructions for repairing the TS switch. Before removing the TS switch check each function with a volt meter. If you find a dead connection that will give you a clue as to which contact is at fault. Note small parts and springs that bounce about when the TS is opened up. I'll check my bookmarks for a how to thread. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/

High sided definition: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Highsider There are Youtube videos showing high side accidents. No time to react.

According to one newspaper account I read, John was making a sweeping right turn and drifted onto the left shoulder and crashed when he attempted to move back to the right lane.

You need to be more specific in the title and in your description. What exactly are you having trouble with? Otherwise people will not respond in a manner to which you expect.

Use vice grips to grab the fitting tightly

You can use vise grips on rounded off brake fittings to remove the brake hard line.

For the flex lines you can use a coat hanger to estimate the length. Always move the suspension and steering through full motion to verify the flex lines are not being stretched or rubbing or kinking etc. Someone here recently forgot to do that and his SS flex line abbrated a brake hard line until it cut through the line - no brakes.

Suggestions - brake booster: leave the firewall nuts loose (few turns of nuts) until you have the pedal connected. - I use a soft alloy brake line because it is easier to bend and flares well. - The Z uses an inverted flare. Buy the best flaring tool you can afford. - You can bend the lines by hand, but small radius bends are better done with a proper bending tool. I use use two bending tools: one for large bends and one that looks like pliers for very small bends. - I bought the bending tools at Harbor Freight and the brake line stock at Summit Racing. - I suggest that you search the Brake forum for brake line flaring and proper tools. I use use a bench mounted flaring tool that makes perfect flares. - As far as measuring brake lines you can remove the line and use a tape measure or use rope to follow the bends and then measure the rope or you could measure using a coat hanger. - Most autoparts stores sell Japanese style brake lines with the correct fittings and flare. Lengths are typically 12in to 36in.

Many who do the rear disc "upgrade" discover that it is not an upgrade at all considering stopping performance. Recommend that you study the brake FAQ and the brake forum before installing one of the popular upgrades. Most of these upgrades result in an unbalanced brake system. Also, when you change one component of a brake system it has a domino effect on other components such as the master cylinder and front/rear brakes. Think about it.

3.54

What percent of the time will your Z be a daily driver?

post pictures of the booster and the areas you are having trouble with.

I prefer the FSM also, but the Haynes Datsun 240Z, 260Z, and 280Z Manual does contain some answers to his questions such as how to adjust the MC push rod. There are many many write ups in the brake forum that explain or answer most of his questions.

answers are in the brake forum and the FSM or Haynes manual for your car. Also, you may want to take the car to a brake shop.

wrong forum

Follow the hydraulic line. You can't miss it. Clutch master/slave bleeding...... I prefer to use the gravity drip method. Fill the MC with fluid. Place a drip pan under the slave cylinder once you find it. Open the bleeder on the slave cylinder. Let fluid flow out of the slave bleed screw Let it drip for about 5 to 10 minutes. Do not allow the MC to empty out. Keep it topped of until you close the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. After you close the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. Pump the clutch pedal once or twice and you should have a firm pedal. If the pedal is not firm, repeat the gravity drip steps above. If you can not get a firm pedal after several tries then either, or both, cylinders are leaking internally.

Lots of T5s here in sacramento. In 2001 I bought a T5 at a wrecking yard for $600. In 2009 I bought a rebuilt T5 for $800. Do places like Summit sell Camaro T5s?

That is amazing. Too much work for me though.

I recommend that you buy the Jags that run 240Z V8 conversion manual as it answers all of your issues in detail. Search the drivetrain section for T5 installs.

As long as you leave some free play in pedal movement it doesn't matter. That is, you do not want to pre-load the MC. Adjust it so there is free play and so the pedal still has full engagement.