Miles

Can You Identify This Car?

Type "t5 clutch master cylinder" into one of the search windows and you will see several threads on how to set up the T5 clutch MC and slave.

There are several write ups on steering rack swaps in the the Suspension and FAQ forums, but you will have to search. Also, do a Google search. Also see: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/118168-steering-rack-parts-availability/?hl=ends http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/RAP0/26575/03448.oap?year=1972&make=Nissan&model=240Z&vi=5142640&ck=Search_03448_RAP_5142640_-1&mn=Rare+Parts&mc=RAP&pt=03448&ppt=C0203#compatibilityTab_ trust but verify

Stock rubber. Search and you will see why.

Trust but verify.

That block of wood looks like it is holding the shifter in place. I would ask about it. If it is holding the shifter in place, then it implies, to me, that he took short cuts when he couldn't solve a problem correctly. I would be inclined to start lifting rocks to see what is under them for a $16.5k car.

Suggestion: go to pick and pull and buy a set of S13 and a set of S14 calipers and check to see what parts will swap so the S14 caliper E brake will hook up like a S13 caliper. Mount the caliper on the car and move the suspension through full travel to see if the E bracket hits the frame or brake hose et. Use the calipers as cores. As can be seen in the picture below the S 14 uses a different e brake cable attachment than the S13.

It is a typical V8 Z car and nicely done. Ask for interior pictures and if it has any electrical issues. To me $16.5k is a bit high unless it has some features not listed. My son and I built a V8 240Z when he was 18. For him the car had two speeds: off or WOT. So beware.

Actually, if you Google "nissan S13 S14 rear caliper comparison" you will see other websites that explore this exact issue. Because HybridZ doesn't always have the answer I want I have joined other car websites such as for Toyota, 240SX, Nissan as well as other Z sites. When all else fails, I go to pick and pull and buy the part in question to use in mocking up and test fitting. Perhaps if you work up a solution to your S14/S13 issue you would post a tutorial on how you solved the problem.

Yep!

I'll see if I can post pictures or a link to bench bleeding etc. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109115-master-cylinder-bench-bleeding/?hl=%2Bbench+%2Bbleeding

Call modern motorsport and ask.

You are not "bench bleeding". You need to push the piston full stroke to eliminate air and pump enough fluid to reach the reservoir. With the MC held in a vise on the "bench" you will be able to push the piston full stroke. Go to the Brake forum and search for "bench bleeding" for the procedure.

Each of your questions has so many variables associated with it that most people will not be inclined to answer them. Search all of the FAQs and the forums first. Searching is your best bet:

Could be the turn signal switch. The internal contacts become bent or corroded and the signal stops working. You can repair it. Search for turn signal repair/not working etc. there are several threads with precise instructions for repairing the TS switch. Before removing the TS switch check each function with a volt meter. If you find a dead connection that will give you a clue as to which contact is at fault. Note small parts and springs that bounce about when the TS is opened up. I'll check my bookmarks for a how to thread. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/

High sided definition: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Highsider There are Youtube videos showing high side accidents. No time to react.

According to one newspaper account I read, John was making a sweeping right turn and drifted onto the left shoulder and crashed when he attempted to move back to the right lane.

You need to be more specific in the title and in your description. What exactly are you having trouble with? Otherwise people will not respond in a manner to which you expect.

Use vice grips to grab the fitting tightly

You can use vise grips on rounded off brake fittings to remove the brake hard line.

For the flex lines you can use a coat hanger to estimate the length. Always move the suspension and steering through full motion to verify the flex lines are not being stretched or rubbing or kinking etc. Someone here recently forgot to do that and his SS flex line abbrated a brake hard line until it cut through the line - no brakes.

Suggestions - brake booster: leave the firewall nuts loose (few turns of nuts) until you have the pedal connected. - I use a soft alloy brake line because it is easier to bend and flares well. - The Z uses an inverted flare. Buy the best flaring tool you can afford. - You can bend the lines by hand, but small radius bends are better done with a proper bending tool. I use use two bending tools: one for large bends and one that looks like pliers for very small bends. - I bought the bending tools at Harbor Freight and the brake line stock at Summit Racing. - I suggest that you search the Brake forum for brake line flaring and proper tools. I use use a bench mounted flaring tool that makes perfect flares. - As far as measuring brake lines you can remove the line and use a tape measure or use rope to follow the bends and then measure the rope or you could measure using a coat hanger. - Most autoparts stores sell Japanese style brake lines with the correct fittings and flare. Lengths are typically 12in to 36in.

Many who do the rear disc "upgrade" discover that it is not an upgrade at all considering stopping performance. Recommend that you study the brake FAQ and the brake forum before installing one of the popular upgrades. Most of these upgrades result in an unbalanced brake system. Also, when you change one component of a brake system it has a domino effect on other components such as the master cylinder and front/rear brakes. Think about it.