Miles

Make a 1 to 2 minute video of the engine compartment with the engine running: one view from the driver's side of the engine and one from the passenger's side of the engine. Have someone raise and lower the engine speed a few times in each view. Same for a front view.

I'll take a stab at it. On one of my 240Zs an exhaust header came loose and blew out the header gasket on one cylinder. It made a mechanical sound very similar to this.

Loy What was your rear brake set up before the TT swap and how do you compare the two?

See videos here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/121812-no-power-to-headlight-fuse/

I just discovered using a syringe while bleeding a clutch master cylinder. I got the 60cc syringe from kitchen supply section of my local super market (hardware store has them also). The syringe comes with a needle that can be fitted into clear plastic tubing. For new brakes I use a Motive pressure bleeder (like a garden sprayer) initially to fill the system and have added speed bleeders to the MC and calipers to make follow-on bleeding easier. The syringe comes in handy to fill/remove fluid in the master cylinder.

I wonder where Silvermine is getting new 15/16 master cylinders.

I agree with NewZed. Suggestions: If doing a V8 swap buy the Jags that Run (JTR) book and read it at least 5 times. Book is useful for any engine swap. Buy books/manuals for the engine and transmission you want to use. Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) and buy a Haynes repair manual for your specific car. Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Make a detailed plan with parts list including cost before starting a project. Plan every system of the car. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Have some money. I stopped counting after $12k. Read the new member FAQs. The engine swap is the easy part. It is understanding the details like brake fittings, adapters, drive shaft angles, brake system, automotive electronics, wheels, suspension and etc. that makes or breaks a build project. Recommend that you buy a running Z car and drive it stock. Do basic maintenance brakes, suspension, electrical etc. so you have a ready to drive platform when you finish the engine swap. You will learn a lot about auto mechanics and how the Z car functions as well. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.atlanticz.../tech-tips.html http://www.classiczcars.com/index http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.blackdrag.../zZxCatalog.htm http://www.arizonazcar.com/

http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/81-powertrain/

You may want to exchange that 3/4 clutch MC for a 7/8 MC. The 3/4 MC has been shown to not have enough throw when used with a T5 transmission. I have used the 7/8 MC on two builds with T5 transmissions. Works good. Also, I discovered that the clutch pedal bump stop (sheet metal bracket) on the floor of my 240Z was preventing full clutch release so I removed the bracket. Currently using: Summit Racing Part Number: WIL-260-10374

One of the pictures at the bottom of the page shows and after market brake booster and master cylinder. Can you provide details e.g., p/n, how was it installed and the cylinder diameter? What brake set up are you using with the booster and master cylinder?

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/5361-stuck-240z-brake-drum/?do=findComment&comment=40349 See posts #4 and #14 Also: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/5025-rear-drum-pita/?do=findComment&comment=37910

I would like to use the 280ZX booster and master cylinder on my 72 240Z, but the clutch MC is in the way.

Does that D21 master cylinder have a vertical or horizontal mounting flange?

Why do you need a proportioning valve?

Problem solved I removed the clutch stop bracket on the floor. While pushing the clutch it came to me that it was engaging just as it hit the pedal stop on the floor. So I used a Dremmel and cut the stop off and now the clutch is fully disengaging. Followup search of the web shows that this is a common problem when altering stock clutches. Now I can feel clutch arm fully move at about the point where the bracket used to be. No more grinding.

72 240Z 350 SBC T5 Camaro transmision The Tilton 7/8 clutch master cylinder I installed six years ago failed so I replaced it with a Wilwood Compact Clutch Master Cylinder No: 260-10374. I replaced the clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing and clutch slave at the same time that I Installed the Wilwood MC. The throw on both MCs is 1.1 to 1.2 inches. The Wilwood MC is bled and firm, but it is not giving enough throw to completely disengage the clutch. Anyone have experience with the Wilwood Compact Clutch Master Cylinder? Given that the diameter and throw is almost identical to the Tilton MC, the Wilwood MC should work.

The only thing you will notice is that the car will handle better. Do the whole car at once. And yes, use rubber on the TC rods.

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/48076-rack-and-pinion-u-bolt-clamp-71z/

80K miles is like new! All I have done with R200 differentials that I bought at a wrecking yard, was to replace the oil seals for the side shafts and pinion. Very easy to do. At the same time I replaced the cover gasket. Seals and gaskets are available at Motor Sports Auto (MSA) and/or Black Dragon. Napa may even have them. If you are new to Z cars: Suggestions: Buy books/manuals for the engine and transmission you want to use. Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) and buy a Haynes repair manual for your specific car. Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Make a detailed plan with parts list including cost before starting a project. Plan every system of the car. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Have some money. I stopped counting after $12k. Read the new member FAQs. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.atlanticz.../tech-tips.html http://www.classiczcars.com/index http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.blackdrag.../zZxCatalog.htm http://www.arizonazcar.com/

http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Her are my numbers: Stock front - 240SX rear 65% : 35% I tried this combination and had to reduce pressure to the rear brakes with a proportioning valve. Toyota Solid Front - 240SX rear 66% : 34% Toyota Vented Front - 240SX rear 70% : 30% Many other numbers like these in the brake forum.

Solved: The T5 4th gear synchonizer assembly hub keys broke and fell out. The transmission shop I bought the rebuilt T5 from six years ago replaced the synchonizer hub and keys at no charge.

I have done the following so called brake upgrades to get a real world idea of how effective they are and what the unintended consequences are for each brake swap: Toyota solid rotor front with stock drums. Basically like stock stopping performance, but less fade in panic stops. The stock 7/8 MC allowed too much pedal travel so I installed a 79 280ZX 15/16 MC. Pedal then became stiff and required more effort which could have been offset by installing an 8 inch diameter 280Z booster (more on that later). Toyota vented front using Modern Motors kit with stock drums. Same as above only vented and more weight. Toyota vented front and Modern Motor Sports 280ZX rear kit. No better stopping than stock. Calculated brake bias was 70% front and 30% rear. After about four years the rear brakes started overheating. A long story short, I discovered that the flanges (where the wheel bolts to) on the new OEM Nissan stub axles I had installed with the 280ZX rear brake kit had become warped. The thin soft flanges can become warped easily just bumping into things. For drum brakes having warped stub axle flanges isn't a big deal, but for disk brakes it can cause the calipers to rub on the rotors causing overheating. Finding the problem surfaced when I checked the flange run out with a dial indicator. New OEM stub axles are NLA so I replace the warped stub axles with steel alloy units from Chequered Flag Racing. Brakes are no longer overheating. Toyota vented front with Maxima rear calipers. Much worse that the 240ZX rear set up. The rotors used with the Maxima calipers are smaller that the 300ZX rotors used on the 240ZX so there is less brake torque. At some point the 280ZX MC failed and was NLA so I installed the Wilwood 1 inch MC and a 280Z 8 inch booster to offset the pedal stiffness anticipated with using a 1 inch MC. After all that, my current set up is Toyota solid front with 280ZX rear, 1 inch Wilwood MC, 280Z 8 inch booster and Axis Ultimate brake pads. The brakes work well for a daily driver. The brake pedal feel is a bit soft the first 1 inch of travel, but becomes firm and linear. They are like the ABS brakes in my Frontier pickup. The stock brakes were designed as a system with all of the parts working together. Altering one thing can have a domino effect that results in poor performance and added cost. None of the above brake combinations improve street performance. Racing may be another matter where people can use different front and rear pads and a proportioning valve to dial in brake balance.

Remove the check valve and the spring.

240Z with SBC 350 and WC T5 transmission After six years of flawless use my 89 WC T5 transmission is grinding when shifting between 3rd and 4th gears. While out for a drive the grinding got progressively worse. No grinding in any of the the other gears, just 3rd to 4th. I can double clutch it into 4th with little or no grinding When I pulled into the driveway the shifter (stock T5) jammed in 1st gear. I shut the engine down and shifted to neutral and restarted the engine. Shifted hard into 1st gear, but was able to put car in the garage. A Google search indicates that the 3rd and 4th gear synchronizing assembly is probably warn or broken. Another Google search suggested that the pilot bushing could be causing the problem. Here is what my T5 manual says: Clutch damaged or out of adjustment Pilot bearing between input shaft and Output shaft binding Damaged synchronizer Bell housing misaligned Damaged gear or gears Worn or damaged flywheel pilot bushing Any other suggestions?