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MAG58

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Everything posted by MAG58

  1. 1967 427 Cobra. Torque or top end?
  2. Don't waste you're time, you've obviously been running the GR55.4432x turbines and those were the crappy ones made in the early 70's. That's why you've been running out of coffee. If you switch to the infinitely better GR55.4444x series, than you will have a much better brew. Though be warned, they only came on two models for 6 months total and only made like 10 of them, but they're so much better they're worth the quadruple price so you should save up because you're just going to have to do it eventually.
  3. I MADE IT!!!! Who was the one person that clapped at the end? Did they let more people out of the booby hatch? Ok so I'm thinking about med-school in Ca, I'm glad I learned a few things before making the move over there. 1. They don't have slaves 2. It's a new west coast 3. Land is free 3a. Except for rent, and stuff 4. All veggies and fruits grow on trees. 5. Silk worms come from machines, also like cars and stuff. 6. Cali's debt will be paid from selling the free food from 3. at the farmers market... To other people from California. 7. It's a smart move to move out of the midwest because we still have slaves like China. Did I miss anything?
  4. We're still with the ol' Duratec I4, which IMO is a great engine. Mazda's MZR (Same Engine) get's tons of go for the MazdaSpeed3 and IMO is a way better design that the SR20. I know I'm going to get hammered for this, but I really don't think the SR is that great of an engine, it's got a compromised valve train, a poorly flowing head for a big 16V motor (save for the Neo VVL engines) and really does nothing "special" that a comparable motor doesn't do. The Duratec's only shortcoming is the partially-counterbalanced crank that can be fixed by getting the forged unit out of the MazdaSpeed MX-5 or MS3 for the 2.3L. The Head flows tons better and has the direct acting camshaft which has a whole lot less stress points to break. Though if I had to pick any european Ford 4 my pick has to go to the Ford YB Cosworth out of the sierra cossie's.
  5. I ran mine with an R200 3.54 no problems, it doesn't have much of a 5th though. The reason I switched to the close-ratio box is just for the taller 5th. That said with the 3.54 it still had pretty much no problem cruising at 75-80mph.
  6. It looks like you're running the stock air-injected exhaust manifold, if so #2 is connected to the air-injection manifold. YOu could remove the entire big tube above the intake. #5 would probably be easier just to plug it with a rubber plug. If not it'll run really rough. IMO, a manual would be a big help for you. #3 &4 are part of the same high idle circuit.
  7. I'd safely say that's a little warm. How long has this been happening?
  8. #3 is the vacuum throttle diaphram, it holds the throttle open after you go back to idle from running it hard (like coming on an off ramp) and brings the idle down slowly to keep it alive.
  9. I'm filling the head this week and the ol' block is in machine shop jail . I should have an update or three in a a week ish or so.
  10. The tube may work, but who knows for how long, agreed on the welding. As it is now though, I'd recommend using just a little more bondo and starting to feather it out over the line where the bumper indent began. It may look all cool and smooth now but when you throw some high build primer or even worse a finish coat, you'll still see that line like a sore thumb.
  11. That looks pretty nice. What all did it take to stuff them in the stock bezels?
  12. Agreed, if the bearing has fixed itself into the housings, air hammering them out has probably boxed them all together. I've pressed a few pairs of stubs out and the bearings all came with them, at least the outer bearing. Even then it wasn't easy on the bearings.
  13. I'd actually think this would be an intelligent idea. The back two cylinders run hot anyways (especially #5) so in reality it would be turning on when the back cylinders got hot. Makes sense to me.
  14. I knew there was a reason besides the happy big letters which help me to affirm my inferiority complex...
  15. This is an awesome project! Couple questions though. It seems as if you have the single cam engine in the first pictures but it looks like the twin cam motor in the CAD and on the engine stand, so which one is it? And you wouldn't happen to know how much the twin cam motor makes over the single cam motor for those big cylinder head?
  16. Looking at the diff's they seem to have four bolts on the rear housing (usually) and bolt to a plate that holds the whole affair in. I'm not 100% sure on this one, but it appears as if you could make an adapter plate to adapt it to the Z mustache bar and craft up a front mount similar to what the short nose guys use and you're golden. The front uses that silly rubber doughnut that germans have for years and they're pretty common and inexpensive to get rid of NVH, so if you could just get the end off of a drive shaft and have a shop weld it to the datto drive shaft you'd be in business there as well. The newer cars use CV's with the big 6 bolt CV flange so i'm thinking maybe an armada or Z32 CV may fit. IMO, I really don't think it would be much more of a hastle than everyone putting the short nose diff's in it.
  17. You know, you could modify the car to use a Mercedes 500/560 rear end. There were a bunch of LSD's and helical LSD's (AMG) used and you could get them in 2.24 ratio and 2.65 ratio... Be some work but I'd guarantee you couldn't break it unless you were really trying.
  18. If you're no longer getting spark after crank, make sure that you have the ignition wired to the "on" side of the key, and not the "start" side.
  19. I road bike for crew. We ride the 10ish miles out to the lake, row for 2 hours and ride back... I love it. It's a nice relax after 2 hours on the water.
  20. This is really cool stuff, I'm now seriously thinking about going to Li-Po for my 1/8th buggy. I've thrown 3 rods in 4 months...
  21. I'll attempt this as best as I can. I didn't say the handling would be bad with the SR20 in it, I'm saying that the handling with the L28 is still surprisingly good.The car handles wonderfully with the SR in it as well, but to think that the motor design that was originally in the car would create a bad handling car, well just does not make sense to me. And I'm very happy that huge budget teams can make giant power with small displacement engines. HOWEVER, we're not talking about a 1000lb carbon fiber rocket with wheels bolted on. And as far as street engines go, it's just not practical to have a 2.5L engine with a 19k redline (Though that is very cool, so if you can source one go for it). I'm not doubting the ability of the SR to make good power, there are plenty of drag teams that use it to success and heck, even in the GT300 class, Toyota used to swap out the mighty JZ engines for a 3S-GTE, because they got more rules breaks with a turbo 2.0L 4 than a big turbo 6. But on a more realistic note, if you plan on driving it on the street, it's just more livable to have a larger displacement motor running lower boost. And true, a turbo SR engine can make more torque at 6k than a big NA V8, but what about all the RPM's one runs on the street? I usually don't see much above 4k when I'm driving on the street. If this is going to be a dedicated track car that does see the upper rev range a lot, than this argument is useless and you're right, go SR, but if not, I'm just suggesting other routes to the same end goal. I'm not saying one is better, I'm just giving my opinion.
  22. Call me old fashioned, but I just don't see the point of RB motors and itty bitty 4 bangers that do actually put out big HP numbers at lots of cool RPM's, but I'd like to have at least some torque to push that thing down the road. I think there was someone who said something about this...Hmm... (see sig). And as far as handling goes, you'd be happily surprised how nimble an L powered Z is on it's feet. Even with that nifty chunk of iron bolted in between the frame rails, it can embarass some pretty impressive machinery with the right setup.
  23. The Z31 or Z32? If it's the Z32, the engine bay already looks like 10 pounds of crap in a 5 pound bag. That said, someone is in the process of a TT SBC in a Z32 so it can be done. The SBF is a little more compact so it should be a little easier as well.
  24. You know, if you're just looking for 400hp at the meats out back, than the ol' L28ET will do that job just fine. And it bolts in . Don't get me wrong, the SR is a great light motor, but the L6 is currently a pretty affordable platform, very sturdy, maintains that L6 sound, and will have more power under the curve (read driveability) for that same 400hp.
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