Trevor

You re-drill the stub axles with the 5-bolt pattern. Or buy Ross's billet CNC-machined parts (MMLLC). Rotors with 5x4.5" hats are your choice - '87-up 300ZX, Ford Mustang and Explorer, Mazda RX-7, whatever fits your caliper and mounting bracketry schemes.

Throw out bearing?

Wow nice lawn - does the grass stay green in FL year round?

Terry, Good thing you drove back the same road in the opposite direction and slowed the Earth's rotation down to counter that burst of acceleration or who knows what might have happened. You Could have altered the time-space continuum. Spring arrives Monday!

Well, selling off a few remaining pieces: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240z-280z-rear-Wilwood-Brake-bracket-CNC-machn_W0QQitemZ8046992808QQcategoryZ33564QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240z-280z-front-Wilwood-Brake-bracket-CNC-Machn_W0QQitemZ8046993632QQcategoryZ33564QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

time to drain the gene pool

You're moving to Hampton, right? You'll have an annual saftey inspection but no emissions inspection. "Gasoline-powered passenger or property carrying vehicles with a model year that is less than 25 model years old before January 1 of the current calendar year and with a manufacturer's designated gross vehicle weight rating of 10,000 pounds or less which are registered in the following localities: Counties of: Arlington, Fairfax, Loudoun, Prince William, and Stafford Cities of: Alexandria, Fairfax, Falls Church, Manassas, and Manassas Park" got it here: http://www.deq.state.va.us/mobile/mobfaq.html

"I've seen worse. He's only mostly dead." -Miracle Max

Some good info here: http://www.jason.fletcher.net/tech/specifications/specs2.htm http://www.engineswaps.com/ I bought one of those "how to swap Ford EFI 5.0L books" (in the form of a .pdf file) from EBAY. It didn't have anything that I couldn't find for free here within these sites: http://fordfuelinjection.com/ http://windsor-fox.com/faq.htm I've been shopping around for an engine harness for a while also. Used factory harnesses are $100 on ebay, new aftermarket harnesses are $250-$500. The desireable A9L computer is another $100 used. Once in a while the whole Ford Racing "kit" (computer, harness, MAF sensor) shows up on ebay. I am tempted to try a '96-'00 Explorer engine (5.0 HO, GT-40 Iron heads and good flowing, but tall, intake) since the computer and harness often sell for $20-$50. The above mentioned sites discourage swaps with engines later than '93, however. The other extreme might be to find a non-HO, speed density computer, 5.0L '86-'92 Thunderbird or Cougar with AOD. I've seen local ads for cars $400-$800. Unless you are building a drag racer, nothing shabby about starting with a budget swap.

You need to reach the stud on top of the ball joint to put the nut on.

It was posted 3 years ago. He must have graduated from U- Ark

Congrats on earning Eagle, and getting a nice Z.

Wait 4 months and the market price will go down.

...a surfboard, ladder, amp, some 2x4s....

I've seen them on a 1986 300ZXT in the JY, it cought my eye because I didn't know they were vented.... I thought the turbos were solid rear rotors with 5 bolt hubs....

Have you figured out where you are putting to put the radiator / coolant filler cap? On the 300ZX, the filler's on the VG engine, just on top of the thermostat, & there isn't a cap on the stock radiator - sits low in the grille and is tilted and an angle. I was thinking about something in-line with the upper radiator hose, or modifying a Fiero water vertical pipe part.

What a b1tch. Sorry for the veterinarial term.... but I was under a Ford Explorer all day swapping a chewed up rear axle bearing. It was going wum wum wum so i went to the JY and pulled an axle ($14.05) without a "groove" worn into it like my 253,000 mile original. Explorer axles are like Mustang c-clip axles as far as diameter (don't know about length) While a Ranger / Bronco II axle is much thinner. But the lug pattern is like a Ranger (5 x 4.5") not like a F-150 wheel bolt pattern. That project went pretty well, then the "while I'm at it" syndrome kicked up. AS long as I have 2 wheels removed for bearings, re-filling the Diff. punkin, etc. I may as well rotate the tires and change the rear shocks.... I've been suffering with bouncy shocks and had 2 new Gabriel Gas SUVs for a month waiting for a warm day like today. A quarter of the way into that adventure we find the lower thru-bolt in both shocks had rusted solid to the sleeve in the shock "eye" so the first one went like a molar extraction. Only not as much fun. I used one of my good Craftsman screwdrivers like a chisel -because the blade was the right width- to knock away the carbonized rubber, then cut the bolt in 2 places with a die grinder and my last 3" cut-off wheel. A the end there wasn't enough wheel diameter left to cut thru the other bolt, so i left the old shock alone until after this week's trip to Harbor Freight. Test drive went well, no noisy rear end! I didn't try any bumpy roads so not sure how this old/new shock arrangement is going to ride/handle. If you see a early green Explorer doing the electric slide around Richmond, VA this week wave graciously and allow some clearance OK?

Turn the louver openings ^UP^ for more rear aero downforce!!!

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/html/how_to_measure.html http://www.jegs.com/customerservice/CustomshaftForm.pdf http://www.nationwideparts.com/driveshafts.htm http://www.drivelinesnw.com/auto_order.htm http://www.pstds.com/critical_link_drive_shafts.htm Here is a machine shop that might be near you: Hudson MFG & Machine Shop Inc 2814 West 2nd Street, Owensboro, KY 42301 Specialties: Repairs,Drive Shaft Repair,Fabrication,Welding,Machine Shop Additional Information: Complete Machine Shop Service, Fabrication & Welding, Drive Shaft Repair & Balance, Repair PTO ATV & Front Wheel Drive Axles

Any exhaust-gage tubing results yet? My results (with 17-gage & 18-gage thin wall standard ex pipe tube and the HF bender dies) were disappointing, I'll get some 2" pipe couplings and try it soon if no one else has....

I think that is intentional, it gives the target victim a false feeling of superiority.

A "Series 1" will always mean a 240Z with vents in the hatch and no holes in the steering wheel. A $helby is a Mustang with LeMans stripes and a solid lifter 289.

Toyota Supra? Looks like close to the right length: http://64.233.179.104/search?q=cache:XSDhYv4brxYJ:65.100.60.50:8884/Files/Datsun/CV-Driveline-Stuff/Toyota%2520to%2520Datsun%2520CV%2520Conversion.htm+82-85+supra+half+shaft&hl=en&gl=us&ct=clnk&cd=4

That works - a 1960's Kellison GT-40 body, adapted to the MR2 platform. I'm an oldies fan, I like the Dino-inspired rebodies as well (Kelmark GT on a VW chassis is what I'm all about) I am thinking a late 1980's MR2 rebody pseudo Ferrari 308 might work. There were a bunch of Fiero 308 rebodies at one time, but I guess they have run out of Fieros, or Ferrari sued them out of business. I've been told the MR2 handles better than a Fiero anyway.

I think it was a question about this car: