Sparky

I will have one of those one day....I just wish the dash wasnt so....errrr funky looking.

im interested in the fuel filter bummer that shes getting parted out....after all the work getting her right.

yeah that looks great! thats going to be one nice Zed!

LMAO @ grumpyvette! good one!

Im down as well, sounds really cool!

LMAO!!!! oh that was great! that totally made my day fast and the curious genius!

exactly! I was also thinking of this, but was thinking of the setups in the original mini coopers. hmm, how much room is there behind the wheels?

thats possible, you could open up the angle of the V to move them out away from the engine, something like 15 degrees? one other thing that I just thought of on the V mount dual radiators is tire clearance...I think it would probably work as long as you didnt want to turn just a slight oversight on my part.

now THAT is cool.

Im really intrigued by your project, LS1 in a dime sounds ridiculously fun AND challenging! kudos to you for trying to pull it off...hope you stick with it. I honestly have not seen a 510s engine bay up close and personal for some time so my suggestions may seem a bit ignorant...forgive me for that. after looking at those pictures posted by qwik240z it looks as though thats going to be te biggest challenge of them all..how to keep it cool. I personally hate cutting the firewalls on cars, I once sat in a datsun roadster that had a LS1 conversion and was extremely disappointed in the position of the new peddle box, there is just something about having cramped feet, or having to sit slightly crooked in a car with my legs and feet cramped off to the left to clear some stupidly large transmission tunnel that irks me greatly. how low will the LS sit in the 510s engine bay? would it be possible to mount the radiator on top of the engine ala-WRX intercooler style? (again, In my head it sounds like it wouldn't work for a variety of reason but i felt it was worth mentioning.) what about cutting out the radiator support and making a new one out of tubing? you might be able to gain a few inches on either side and maybe even one or two up front, the headllights might get in the way so maybe a low and wide custom made radiator would do the trick. or you could just remove the inner headlights completely and leave the holes there for cooling. what about a full tube frame front end? would it be possible to mount two smaller radiators at opposing angles off to either side of the engine? 8/ maybe something like that? anywho, what a challenge! would love to see it in person and have a go at fitting that thing in there! goodluck with it, looking forward to seeing more progress.

that makes me sad.

I was originally going to pay someone to install my front and back glass but like all things car related I ended up doing it by myself. I made myself a bucket of highly slippery and soapy water, seated the gasket on the windshield, soaped the heck out of the gasket, windshield, and window frame and used the clothes line cord method along with a cotter pin puller to get the windshield installed. It was my first time ever installing a windshield and I was dreading it because of all the horror stories I had heard. well it turns out it was one of the easiest things to do on the car, the front went a little slow seeing as how it was my first time, but still it took my myself and I a little less than 30 minutes. I had the back glass installed in 15 minutes. I didnt install the trim in the rubber until after the windshield was in the car. I too heard stories about how it was impossible to install the trim after the windshield was in and as a matter of fact I did install the trim on my first attempt. after the first pull of the cord and getting the bottom edge seated all but one piece of the trim had popped out. I said screw it, yanked all the trim out and installed it later. I again used soapy water mix to help install the trim along the a little plastic windshield and trim installer tool that I got from Victoria British. I would have to say that that little tool is invaluable when installing the trim as it doesnt tear up the rubber like a metal screwdriver would. It also wont scratch your paint if you happen to slip. it probably took me about 45 minutes to an hour to install the trim on each window. all in all it was totally worth the 160-200$ i saved, anybody can do it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/E46-02-BMW-M3-Engine-3-2-Complete-Conversion-Gearbox_W0QQitemZ8049837973QQcategoryZ33615QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Guess what? that first one is a scam...its the same style as all the other ebay scams that are going on out there, hijacked dormant account, recently reactivated. major bummer as I was seriously considering bidding. buyer beware.

I've got to ride in some really nice BMW machinery these last few weeks, all of them lesser models with the S52 M swaps. one being my friends 1990 E30, and another being his bosses 5 series wagon. its such a smooth engine with plenty of power and on demand torque. Its a serious consideration in my head considering just how affordable this swap is becoming as more and more of these engines find their way into the market.

wow, I wouldnt have even bothered with that car. guess im just spoiled...or a terrible, terrible person!

and the mosquitos. BTW 73turbo240Z, you should PM me, I might have something for you.

wow thats funky looking. I too have heard of this happening but have no idea why. perhaps an improperly tightened cam bearing?

http://www.americanlemans.com/News/Article.aspx?ID=1872 The Audi won by three laps. I watched the afternoon session and as amazed at how smooth and quiet that car seemed to be.

I was wondering where that car was going to end up at. good to hear it might just live after all. good luck with the rebuild!

I agree with others that the white line is throwing off the look. I would lower the car about and inch and install the flares as is. dont paint them or the wheels YET. once you get it a tad lower and permanently installed I think the look will come together nicely.

oh that stinks! doesnt look that bad though...and now you have an opp to change the hood out

Ditto, I had to turn my wastegate flange 90 degrees to clear the TC rod, I didnt preheat or slow down its cooling. I've had it on and off the car several times and have yet to see any cracks. one way to help prevent cracks if you do weld on the cast manifold would be to add some simple supports for the turbo, wouldnt take that much longer to do and its cheap way to prolong the life of your welds.