grannyknot

As Neverdone says, if he can't tell the difference between iron and steel he shouldn't be charging money for his welding "skills"

The part that is rusted out in your photo is the floor pan support or rail, inexpensive and not that hard to replace, http://www.datsunzparts.com/products.html Charlie Osbourne of Zedd Findings makes them and many other pieces to repair our cars. That rust is very fixable, show us more pics.

No, not with sand. Sand is great for the bottom of the car, inside the car but not the roof, door jambs and engine bay but all the open panels are only 20ga metal that is not supported by folds and curves, the sand hitting that thin metal heats them up in a very localized way. The metal expands but doesn't shrink back so you end up with a surface that isn't smooth anymore and will take a lot of filler to flatten it out. That is one of the reasons why soda blasting has become so popular, the grains are so small and have such low mass they don't cause the metal to heat up in the same manner. The best way is to take it to a place that does a lot of cars, they will understand, industrial blasters may not. This forum is fantastic, the membership includes many professional body guys that have seen it all, https://www.autobody101.com/forums/index.php?sid=f044bf1f351a02abe241234902095df9

She's a beauty, welcome to the forum. The FAQs section, https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/38-faqs/ is the best place to start, lots of great threads there that will answer just about all your questions and will bring you up to speed. When you run into something that stumps you the members here will bend over backwards to help but you need to come to the table with basics under your belt. Modifications to a Z are a slippery slope, the more work you do yourself, the more money you save and the greater the satisfaction. The R200 is a strong versatile diff, it is still supported for parts and a number of companies make limited slip units for it. Also, the brakes and suspension upgrades are plenty, it's like a candy store of offerings from stock to full race. Here are a few online stores to whet your appetite, https://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/brake-upgrades http://zcarparts.com/ https://technotoytuning.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/

Most sandblasters don't use sand anymore unless the operator is in a full fresh suit, glass beads, crushed glass, copper slag and soda blasting have come along way. Just make sure who ever does it knows not go anywhere near the open panels on the roof, quarters, doors etc.

I don't think you can tap the oil pump drive shaft down because the drive gear is meshed with the crankshaft, hmmm, I guess if the oil pump drive shaft turned while being hit then maybe, still sounds iffy to me.

Heat, get a torch in there around the join between the pump and block, get it smoking hot and cool it by spraying it with WD40, pb blaster or such and repeat a couple times. Give the pump a hard whack with a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer and keep at it until the corrosion breaks. You will probably need a new pump anyway, the real problem will come when the pump is off and now you have to get the remaining broken bolt out without hurting the internal threads, but again heat it and cool it rapidly.

Ever since the migration to the new forum every time I login I get an email saying I'm logging in from a new device even though I have only ever used one device.

But always good.

Yes, but what an aborted project! There has been some excellent work done on this car and a small fortune in high performance parts, $10k is quite a deal. I just bought a 510 project so my pockets empty, good luck with the sale @ckrell, that is quite a Z.

Okay so I'm dragging this one back out because big changes are happening, the S38 engine experiment was a success in many ways and in a few ways not so much. So I pulled it and sold it on BaT, wonderful engine but it is just not supported anymore. I have rebuilt the e46 S54 M3 engine and that will be the new power plant. So far the swap is going well, the engine is in, transmission and diff are lined up and the custom driveshaft is being built right now. I should have it back in a week, next step is to have the BMW ECU re programed to eliminate all the extras that aren't needed and set to wiring it up. I finally got around to making the top of the radiator support removable, considering how often the engines come and go it will be a big help, just have smooth it out, do some filling/sanding and try to match the paint. The original intake airbox sticks right out into the shock tower and also had problems with the #1 and #6 cylinders having uneven access to air so I have opened it up will try to fabricate a custom funnel to the air filter. @carbuilder723, was nice enough to sent me the drawings for Ron Tyler's BMW engine mounts and after making cardboard mock ups of them I could see they just weren't going to work for my swap, not sure why. So I made a couple of rough mounts and once the bulk of the work is completed on the swap I will take them off and clean up the welds and finish them a bit more.

It should be,

Using argon the inside weld is smoother than solar flux but not a lot.

That's not a small accomplishment! Congrats, are you purging the pipe with argon or using Solar Flux?

I couldn't figure what you talking about, then I saw it, stealthy, no hot spots in your head. The throttle linkage is excellent I think, minimal hardware, clean. That goes for all the work you've done, that's going to be a killer engine bay.

The energy poly bumpstops are terrible, if you ever bottom out and hit them it's bone jarring, the poly foam bumpstops are superior and stop the bump but with a lot more control, Koni makes good ones. The Eibach lowing springs are pretty good which is why they are so popular.

Silvermine looks like it covers everything, I'm just about to order this. https://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/brake-upgrades/datsun-240z-260z-280z-rear-dual-caliper-wilwood-brake-upgrade-with-dedicated-cable-handbrake-caliper-stock-cable

Those don't look too bad at all, as long as there is not a corresponding scratch on the journal, what does the other side of the bearing look like? Quite often it is the upper half of the bearing that takes most of the wear.

It might be a better idea to replace the whole thing, https://tabcoparts.com/1234-42395.html Chances are if one side is rusty then the other side is not far behind.

This. You might want to go back to the shop and show them, they owe you a pair of control arms.

Lucky you, a PO dropped a L28 into it. 2.8L engine from a 280z.

At the point where your engine is starving for fuel Really though I think the sock fuel lines are probably good for at least a 200 hp engine, more than that you would want to go up a one size. The stock return line will be fine until you get up there in the hp and larger fuel pump.

I've done this a couple of times and I would suggest not to throw out the stock wiring harness so fast, it is made of good quality wire and usually just needs having the connectors cleaned. I usually end up splicing the stock harness and the engine management harness into one.

I like that you have put the ridge of the punch out on the upper side for some grip, usually you see it the other way around and your feet slide on the smooth steel.

All they care about is the look not the engineering. My body and paint guy is the reason I now do all my own body and paint, when I took the car up to him I said "Nothing under the hood needs any filler, please spend that time on the panels." When I pick up the car he's filled in all the spotweld dimples and seams in the engine bay, he thought it looked great. I told him it looks like the car was in a major collision and I'm trying to hide the damage with filler. At some point it all has to come off.