FlatBlack

lol... Why does everyone think Bob is an old fart? BTW he's not even old enough to buy booze

You should've asked when I sent you the flywheel haha. I have a couple sets up at the shop. PM me if you're interested.

I understand that those prices are incredibly high, but don't they carry more liability for their work, unlike the local joe-schmoe auto repair shop? I used to think local auto repair shops had standards and whatnot, but after working on cars for a while, I am amazed to see what these shops do to cars sometimes.

Great news!! Now get off your computer and go drive it

O_O There have been several members here that have bought running, driving 280ZX Turbo cars for under $1000. Also, turbo questions are the most newbish questions, do some searching.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=lug+nut+dimension

OBX HLSD New Tires - BFG G-Force Sports

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/diypnp-nippon-denso-52pin-unassembled-kit-p-390.html http://www.megamanual.com/

They are basically giving these 2.2 Imprezas away around here, so I might go buy a wagon this week

"Snow area" is a bit vague... Baton Rouge, Louisiana [in the most southern part of the states] got about 3 inches last year It really doesn't snow much here, maybe once or twice a year. I felt bad for my poor Z31 but I had to get home some way! I'm just glad all the seals are like brand new. Thrustnut - No more global warming please, I want some global cooling so we can get some hot weather!

But this time my S30 was safe from the elements Thursday night brought a nice rain/sleet bottom ice layer, then after about 2AM started snowing, and kept snowing until last night around midnight. The Z31 is still stuck, I wouldn't dream of driving it or the S30 in this stuff. Summer tires and open diffs :/ My roommate has an AWD Impreza 2.2, it has been the shuttle for all of my friends with RWD cars that can't go anywhere. We had some fun with it yesterday in the snow, I got to drive it in a empty parking lot and maaan AWD is just great. I'm thinking about getting a WRX or some other Subaru instead of a truck this summer

115-120 is not low, you should be looking for consistency between cylinders. Were you looking at the N/A FSM or the Turbo FSM? I would assume the L28ET's numbers would be lower due to the compression.

If you are hard on cash why are you trying to modify a car? Have you thought about saving up for what you really want to do?

Yes, for that money you could get MegaSquirt [Fuel and Spark control] and all the turbo accessories if you know where to look. Check out the NA-T thread for some ideas. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=153195

I'm running the 15x8 +4 RBs, Tokico springs/HP struts. I am running a ~1cm spacer [and longer studs] on the fronts, my 225/50/15 Yokohamas would rub the spring perch otherwise. The backs are fine, and if I could actually find them, I bet I could get a 245 on the back. That might require a spacer though. I'd go with the 8" rims, if you're going to be spending the money anyways get something that you can fit alot of rubber on. If I were to buy again I would probably do the 16x8s. [To be honest I'll probably go for the 17x9.5s -19 so I can get 'real' tires]

I couldn't tell if the Turbo Supplement that I scanned was comparing the N/A dished piston or the N/A flat top piston, there is a dish in the diagram it looks like. Are the ringlands the same size on the dished and flat top N/A pistons?

If it is 'fried' it's a very easy fix. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/bip373.htm Check out #65. of the V3 board assembly http://www.megamanual.com/index.html

That's great, thanks for the pics, BRAAP. Do you have any L28ET/L28E/Late L28E side shots to compare the turbo to the N/A pistons?

What fuel pump are you running?

A multimeter, and a battery for the switched and 12V power. I set up a little bench tester when mine was acting up. I found out my FP wasn't getting power [so the fuel pump wouldn't turn on and the Coil + didn't have any power]. When I saw that it wasn't getting power, I found the solder had come off the board at the FP relay, soldered it back up and it was good to go.

Not necessarily. The tach signal is an input, spark is an output. Check your relay board...

79-80 Model years are N42 blocks, 81-83 are F54 blocks, both N/A and turbo. The turbo F54 blocks had the same 10cc dished pistons as the N42 N/A pistons, but the ringlands are thicker. The N/A F54s have flat top pistons, but it only bumped the SCR to 8.5:1 stock vs. the 8.3:1 from the N42. I have a 1mm HG [stock is 1.5mm] on my motor, and according to LEngine.exe it is at 8.7:1 now. Check out this Nissan overview with actual numbers: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=153226 I'm using the flat top pistons, everything is going great so far. The N42 should be fine with boost and proper engine management. Here are the details: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=153195

Did it start happening when you chagned the tune to a different MSQ or was it just random? My Relay board broke off a solder on one of the relays and wouldn't let my car start, just like yours. You might want to take is apart, make sure everything is visibly okay, then bench test it with the ECU to make sure everything is working.

Did you jumper the board per the DIYAT site? http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_280zx_turbo.htm You have the exact same setup that I have. If you need some maps or setting info I can get some screen shots for you.

This is the only picture I have of dished pistons, it's a BHG'd N42. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh81/flatblack280/Head%20Work/100_2769-1.jpg Yes, you can look through the spark plug hole to see what you have if you rotate it up to TDC. The PO probably didn't convert to flat tops on a N42/N47 setup, that would bump to SCR up to the mid 9s I believe.