FlatBlack

What size clutches are these? I also had this problem on my 78, it turned out all I needed to do was adjust my clutch Master Cylinder rod length. AutoZone's unit comes with a rod that is too short and you need to keep the stock rod.

Flat top L28 pistons have no recess at all on them http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh81/flatblack280/Head%20Work/IMG_0086.jpg?t=1255450556 Could you post some pictures? I'd be interested to see what you have.

I didn't realise I was looking at an auto until I saw the second picture I posted. I guess the whole thing is a bit foreign to me. I still think it would be possible, it might take some serious fab work, but a Corvette IRS would be sweeet.

I may be missing something, I've never been under a C5, just in the driver's seat, but why would it be an issue if the drive...shaft....thingy.... were lengthened/shortened? Is this going into a 240Z or 280Z? The 280Z tranny tunnels are bigger [so I'm told] and might accommodate more 'transaxle.'

Sometimes.... Girls say things but don't necessarily mean them as you hear them Like everyone else is saying, balance is the key. Don't neglect the girl! Even cheap or small dates here and there help out the situation, and if she sees that you're not letting the car take over your life, things will go smoothly!

I don't remember installing a spacer when we did this. This is off rbryant's write up page, we just dropped them in there like this [together in a stack, but a different orientation]: I don't think he mentions anything about a spacer either. "Step 2: Place the stacked washers inside of the gear. They should be stacked like this )()()("

The wheels are a deal breaker for me. I know, I'm shallow. The chassis looks really straight, though! I wonder if it was done properly?

Also, those are referred to as the "E12-80" dizzy if you are doing a conversion.

Strange Spool. Nah I'm going the OBX route. See what damage I can do with that. Chris is doing all the trial and error for me [sorry dude, we'll get it locked up soon!]

Probably best to keep thoughts like that in your head.

Anybody know anything about the E5ZE-A3A injectors? My friend has some Merkur injectors he says are 36#, the only page I found to confirm that is this one: http://www.gonzomotorsports.com/?p=410 Everything else has the data for the A3B, which is 35#, but no A3A. I am looking at some 390cc injectors, I would rather go with them if the Ford injectors are only 35#. Random site with conflicting data: http://www.turbobricks.org/forums/showthread.php?t=8662

We'll see My tires are pretty much done, I'm going to need to buy some new rubber before I take any long trips. Plus it's almost LSD time...

Yes, it had only been shaking for maybe 2 or 3 miles but things can go south rather quickly. Like I said, I'm very glad these are forgiving cars. Thanks for the tip on the wrenches, I've done things like that on suspension parts, but my 280Z has plenty of room to get a good grip on the DS bolts. I did the re-torque on my lunch brake, it only took about 5 mintues. ---- My buddy just called me, saying he got the two sets of injectors off of his spare Merkurs, it looks like I will be going with the 380cc SVT injectors. I'm also watching some 390cc injectors on ebay that end this evening, so I will definitely have new injectors by tonight!

Well you're obviously doing something wrong. If you are not going to try what we suggest, why are you asking for help? This is from that thread I posted: You can play around with the trigger angle [+ or - some] to try to dial it in if it is really close to starting or is idling rough.

YIKES!! ALL of my driveshaft bolts were loose. And the clicking noise was my E-Brake cable laying on my RH half shaft. I am lucky that these cars are so forgiving. Everything is sorted now, it's driving fine again.

You need to get a timing light on there and make sure your actual timing is correct. Set the timing to -10 in MegaTune and then check to see where it is sparking on the timing mark. Are you using a ZXT CAS Dizzy? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=151424&page=2 Check out letitsnow's post in there ^

It's not really a "big" vibration... All bushings are new poly. I grabbed the wheel with the car on the ground and shook it as hard as I could, nothing was loose. I'll get her up in the air tonight, but I'm going to go get a new wheel weight on after work.

Possibly? I'll have to look inside, if there are any they are on the inside of the wheel. *edit* Yep, I think I threw a weight last night. I went to look at the car and I can't see any weights on my rear RH wheel.

The clutch is broken in and it feels GOOD. Very crisp engagement and added pedal firmness, but not too firm. It's exactly what I wanted. I need your help!! I didn't want to start a thread for this because I just need to get under the car and see what's up, but I'll present the situation anyways. I got in Flatty this morning to run some errands before work, and as soon as I got over 45 MPH the car started to shake. It will shake in gear, on throttle, off throttle, or out of gear and in neutral. As soon as I hit the brakes or get under 45 MPH is goes away. I'm not really sure what's going on as I haven't looked down there yet. The half shafts aren't loose when I tried to rotate them, and the wheels are on snug. Last night I heard a noise when barely rolling, it sounded like a rotating part making noise at my passenger's side rear wheel. It seemed to happen per one rotation of the wheel, but I couldn't confirm that visibly. The shaking might point to a out of balance wheel/tire, or a loose drivetrain part, but what are the chances that it is one of the rear wheel bearings? My fronts are new.

LSD. Get one.

I'm glad to know there are other geeks like me that chase down other S30s.

This is a sticky for a turbo swap. Start a build thread. Do the responsible thing. SAVE UP YOUR MONEY. There are many more important things than going fast. If you don't have insurance on your car right now don't you dare start modding it. No, you can't use L28ET injectors on your L28E with the stock ECU. And please clean up your spelling/grammar. Tony, thanks for the input! I'm hoping people aren't using the stock ECCS on this swap, plus that list was just copied off of Bumble Zee's site. I am running MS and the GM CLT sensor I am running is in the thermostat housing. I've heard several of you on here saying you want to run the stock N/A EFI on the flat top F54, just a warning, I am already having to replace my injectors and I haven't even turned the boost up. I think it's a really bad idea. The "well I'm just going to blow it up" excuse is stupid, I've been nearly daily driving this setup since September of last year.

Hey there's this great thread on HybridZ.org that explains all of it. Oh wait, this is it. Back on topic, slightly: I am running 8 psi on the stock T3, and I've been maxing out the L28ET injectors. I don't know if mine are not clean enough or what, but I am upgrading to either 3000GT VR4 390cc injectors or some Ford Merkur 380cc injectors. That should get me up to ~12 psi which is what I am shooting for this Spring/Summer.

No

This has my vote as well, it's my favorite Hybrid Z photo. [Austin's undercarriage shots come in a close second ] http://gallery.voodoo-people.com/albums/album1042/DSC_0138_Medium.jpg