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rossman

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Everything posted by rossman

  1. The car is finally running and I've broken in the cam properly, running the engine at 2 - 3k rpm for 30 minutes. I am using Brad Penn (PennGrade) 30 wt. break-in oil. At 100 miles I'll switch to PennGrade 10w-40 or the oil combo that Rebello recommended. These were taken just after the 30 min break-in cycle:
  2. It's finally running again! https://photos.app.goo.gl/5yo7SPSUCJrKMGWd9 The video was shot after running the engine for 30min @ 2 - 3K rpm to break in the re-polished cam and new Nissan rockers. My cam and rocker saga is detailed here:
  3. Hi Gordon, Yep, Black Dragon stopped selling zcar parts some time ago. Motorsport Auto is a good one with an online store. For high performance parts check out Techno Toy Tuning and Arizona Zcar. There are others but those are ones I've purchased from in the past. Cheers, Ross
  4. Oh, and you're doing a PHENOMENAL job on the car! Mad skillz!
  5. Like every friggin' job I do on the car and otherwise! Oh this will only take an hour or two...6 hours later I'm still plugging away. No wonder I don't have any hair left! 🤣
  6. Did you give the shop a sketch of what you wanted them to do? I find that verbal and even written text instructions get screwed up or lost in translation. I would make a quick sketch of the stock and modified version and write "WAS (stock)" and "IS (modified)" by each sketch. That way it's clear what you want and if they screw that up then there REALLY is no excuse and it is easy to point to the requirements (dimensions) on the sketch.
  7. Oh, and engine coolant....must not forget that! Also I failed to mention that all the dash wiring is connected all the electricals are working properly. I initially had a problem when the ignition switch was in "acc," the hazard light switch would power up the car like the ignition switch was switched to "run," then back to "acc" and then back to "run" as the flasher cycled. Took me quite a while to figure out what the hell was going on! It turned out that I had reversed two identical stock connectors that go to the rear turn signals/fuel level sender (Y, GB, GR) and the cig lighter/antenna/wipers (LW, L, LY). 🤪
  8. This is the car as it sits today, pretty much ready to start. All I have to do is put oil and fuel in it. These guys were a huge help. That's my son Zachary on the left and his friend Colby on the right. They got the intercooler, intercooler piping, and rear LCAs installed in no time. The 24" ac condenser is a tight fit but it works! Aluminum fuel tank and lines are installed. I had to polish the inner flares, same as I did back in 2008 due to purchasing cheaply made stainless pipe. I'm going to get rid of all of it because I don't want to do that again! Here you can see my TTT LCAs, new fuel pump mount, and barely see the TTT mustache bar. The main reasons for the LCAs and mustache bar are for clearance to the half shaft boot. Note to self: Don't forget to tighten those damn LCA pivot bolts before I get all excited when the car starts! Back side of Wilwood parking brake. I hated dealing with the hydraulic line lock. It's just not a good solution for a street car. I went thru three of them that failed due to leaks before I started looking for a better solution.
  9. I certainly would appreciate it! Do you know if going from .63 to .82 moves the exhaust v-band relative to the T3 flange? I assume it does. If so I may have to modify my down/wastegate pipe when I eventually get there.
  10. Thanks jgkurz! As another data point, I seem to remember that bigphil had a similar issue when he was running an l6. What was the fix? .82 turbine.
  11. It's impressive the dedication you have to this build and the effort you have poured into it. I've enjoyed watching it from the beginning.
  12. Good to know! I had assumed that the valve is shut at 0% similar to my 90s Ford AIC valve behaves...at least that's how I remember it.
  13. Finally installed the dash after removing it over 3 years ago to "install some new gauges." 😆 This time with a new #vintagedashes dash pad, new SpeedHut Revolution gauges (Coolant Temp, Fuel, Oil, Boost, and AFM), custom three gauge panel, and Vintage Air AC evaporator/heater blowing thru the stock vents.
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