rossman

Mine was manufactured on 11/71. Sorry, didn't mean to hijack your thread......

I have the same problem with my steering column wire harness. Had a pictures of the installed wires from the last time I disconnected them but now they're gone and I need them again. From what I remember previously, some or all of those wires change colors at the connections. What we need is for some helpful soul to take pictures of his harness with the individual wires separated apart so we can identify them. I found a couple of pictures on Google Images but none were clear enough for me to identify which wire was which. edit: there are a few here: http://240z.jeromio.com/ac.html but my color vision is poor making that much difficult for me....

It's a great looking car. Job well done!

Just pull it out and check it. It may be worn or broken internally.

Had the exact same thing happen on my car with stock suspension ,Z31t axles, and Modern Motorsports adapters. Stretching out the boot might help but it relies on friction to hold it in place so it may just slide back after some period of time. But, it's worth a shot. I had decided that the differential was flexing too much so I installed TTT mustache bar (previously stock 280z) and ground the corner off the LCA where it comes close to the boot. The car is still on jack stands so I don't know if that combination worked. Installing aftermarket LCAs hadn't crossed my mind until now....

At least you figured it out! All of us that were trying to help assumed that the control setup was good. Take it as a lesson learned; start with the simple stuff first and verify before you move on to the next, more complex possible cause.

I had a pair of the AZC rear brackets that were set up for parking calipers but destroyed them, cutting them off my car. IIRC the brackets were set up for some never developed custom AZC parking caliper not Wilwoods. @Woza01 produced a set of steel rear brackets that did incorporate both the Wilwood brake calipers and parking brake caliper.

Comparing boost numbers between an old L6 and a 2JZ is a bit like comparing apples and oranges. I'm sure your engine is flowing considerably more air than mine at 10 psi, requiring your wastegate to handle a higher volume of air to keep it there.

I'm running a 5lbs spring in the MV-S. I typically run 10 psi but have run 8 psi and 15 psi at times. It seems to be stable but I haven't logged it. No HP numbers yet.

FWIW, my TiAL MV-S 38mm wastegate setup is similar to Softopz's "A" setup above but with it merges into the downpipe a little further down past the second bend. I'm also running a GT35R and have no problems controlling boost.

Chickenman covered it but you might want to also consider your wastegate outlet pipe too. If the outlet is routed to a high pressure or very turbulent location in the exhaust pipe it will affect the efficiency of the wastegate. You could test this pretty easily by dumping to atmosphere like a screamer pipe. If the boost becomes controllable then you found your issue or at least part of your issue.

My engine builder, Rebello recommended 1/2 bottle of Lucas TB Zinc Plus combined with a 50/50 mix of Motorcraft 5W-30 synthetic blend and Penzoil GT Performance Racing Oil 25W-50 engine oils.

Yah, buyer beware! Lucas Engine Break-in Oil Additive - TB Zinc Plus is good stuff: 31,000 PPM Zinc

That's good advice from Gareth. J. The wiring and connectors to the ammeter is a known source of car fires on old 240z's. The ammeter sees full system current all the way up to the gauge. Old corroded wires and connectors build up resistance across the connections leading to heat build-up, melted insulation/connectors and finally fire. I'd recommend ditching the ammeter for a voltmeter. You don't have to pull the dash and there are instructions how to do it on this site.

Awesome build! I'd recommend something different than the T3 front differential mount. That type of mount is known to move around under load.

Ah, I thought the holes in the throttle bodies we're injector holes. It may be ok then. The will still see some fuel so you might want to check them periodically.

Is that silicone hose you are using to mount your ITBs to the manifold? I'm pretty sure fuel will break down the silicone.

Chickenman nailed it. You pretty much have to start over. These old engines are prone to knock especially in cylinders 5&6. Modifying the head with a coolant bypass (as discussed in one of the L6 stickies) may help a little but with pump gas I bet it still knocks like crazy with any kind of real boost. If you end up starting over, I would start with a decent running NA engine. Once you get it set up and running good, then spend the money on a fancy turbo build. That way if the blow up the NA engine, there is less money lost. Oh, and by the way triple weber setups are cool! Alas, more power is addictive and I get it. I caught the bug back in 2008. But unless you're racing, a finely tuned NA L6 is more fun to drive on the street IMHO. A lot of the power my car produces just ends up going up in (tire) smoke. That's my $0.02. Good luck.

Absolutely beautiful! I certainly wouldn't cover those with powder coat.

Welcome to the forum! I agree with rbturbo. It's your car, ignore the purists and build what you want. You mentioned money a few times in your video so you might want to consider building a turbo l28. You can easily get 300 hp to the wheels and it's probably the least expensive way to go if you keep it reasonable.

I'd say the fit was reasonably acceptable only after I cut away most of the existing frame rail. Even then both the original and BadDog rails required quite a bit of tweaking/panel beating. Thanks! I have a small bit of welding left to do on the passenger side. Next will be treating it all with Ospho followed by primer, paint and 3M rubberized undercoating underneath.

I actually have a stainless version of that valve that I was going to use for a line lock too, until I saw that a parking brake option was available for the AZC Wilwood setup. I never really liked the idea of not having a mechanical way to brake the car.