rossman

Sux. I know the feeling all too well. The PO of my car filled holes in the frame rails and corresponding holes in the floorboard with Great Stuff then covered them with dynamat. He told me with a straight face that the frame rails and floor pans were "solid."

I'm curious if you guys with reground rockers have checked for spalling on the rocker pads. Also, how much lift are you running and what oils did you use for break-in and post break-in.

My dad had a 260 when I was in high school in 1984. He let me drive it a few times. I fell in love with the styling and handling/feel of the car. I was driving a 1979 Subaru DL at the time so just about anything felt better, haha!. Anyway, one day just before I went off for college, my step father came to me with a proposition: trade the 1984 Toyota SR5 mini-truck I was driving at the time for his friend's well cared for 1975 280z. It was completely stock except for some cheesy fake wire wheels. I agreed and fell in love with the Z all over again. I drove it for many years just as it was, completely stock. Once I landed my first job, I started following the Z-car mailing list and looking at Black Dragon and Motorsport Auto catalogs. I was soon bit by the resto-mod bug and never looked back. I pulled off the heavy crash bumpers, added a Schneider cam, header and 2.5" exhaust. Drove it like that for several years until it overheated one day. After that, I purchased a Honda Accord, lost interest in the Z and sold it. In 2005 I purchased a 1988 Z31t Shiro and caught the bug again. I quickly realized that the Z31 didn't have the same sports car soul that the S30 does so I dumped it after a year or so. I like the car but it just didn't do it for me. In 2008 I got bug again, started searching around online, landed on Classic Zcar website. Reading there got me interested in stock zcars again. I ended up finding my current Z, a 1972 240z locally, purchased it and fell in love again. I fully intended in keeping it stock. After a week of driving, I decided to give it a valve adjustment that it desperately needed to get rid of a loud tick coming from the valve train. turns out it had a bent valve caused by bad head work to "fix" what I can only guess what a severely warped head. The cam bound up in the head and #6 valves were contacting the piston. Sooooo, I started looking at an upgraded engine and ended up with the beast I have currently. Some days I wish I just had a simple, stock 240z again, but oh well it is what it is at this point. Ross

I've never seen one of those Motec style displays in a Z with the stock dash, only with custom dashes. It seems it would be quite difficult to integrate it into the stock dash since it is made from one piece molded plastic over soft foam. To me the S30 dash is an integral part of the style of the car. Making major changes to it destroys its vintage appeal...but hey, it your car, do what you like. Oh and blue displays and night driving don't mix well, especially for old eyes like mine. Just my $0.02. Good luck!

Rockers. Some people have had luck resurfacing the rockers but others like myself have not.

Agree with NewZed, probably doesn't have the right combination of bolt and washer for the damper. You might be bottoming the bolt end or shoulder before clamping the damper. Oh yeah and it's a damper pulley not a harmonic balancer, L6's are internally balanced.

I think green with gold wheels and will look really good! Keep it up, your hard work is paying off!

Sold!

Thanks for your interest, but not, unless you have some convenient (for me) method in mind 😁. Also seems like it would be cost prohibitive seeing how it can be $100+ to ship them in the continental US.

Up for sale are a pair of good condition recovered 240z seats. These are in good condition but not perfect as you can see in the pictures. $200 for the pair, pick up preferred but will ship if there is interest. OBO if picking up, firm +shipping if shipped. Seabrook, TX. https://photos.app.goo.gl/nAyE7K8P9kPZASrk7

I don't think it matters too much, just some sort of grease to protect the seal from wear on start-up. Some seals come prelubed so you don't have to add it.

Could be, check it Could be and it's easy enough to replace You'll need to remove it if you have to replace the seal. Just unbolt the drive shaft at the differential and pull it out of the transmission. Be sure to grease the seal before you reinstall the drive shaft.

I believe I said this on another thread but your adapter is a very clever design. I have a very similar setup as you including a .62 turbine T3 housing but with a first generation GT35R. I'm thinking I probably have the same issue as you but haven't driven it enough to know. If anybody has a Garrett GT3576R .82 T3/v-band turbine housing, let me know and I will take it off your hands :).

Your issue sounds similar what big-phil experienced back in 2009 except you aren't hearing the turbo flutter as he was. The solution, as recommended by Tony D was to go with a .82 turbine.

That's what I figured! But he did turn it around pretty quickly. The cheapo scanner I have at work takes quite a bit of time to turn into a good solid.

So cool indeed! I'm curious what scanner you used and how much labor was burned creating the solid model.

Very cool, thanks for sharing! I have the impression that it is an expensive process to develop the tooling for casting. Is that not the case anymore.i don't expect that I would produce very many of these. Cheers, Ross

Welcome! Very nice car!

CZCC is Classic Zcar Club.