rossman

I'm just passing on my experience and opinion. Take it FWIW. I prefer to use ospho first then epoxy paint. YMMV 😁

My experience with POR 15 has not been good and I tend to put rust bullet in the same category. Without going too much off topic, I will say that the PO of my car told me that he had treated the floor and hatch with POR 15 rust encapsulator. I purchased the car back in 2008 and he treated it some time before that. By the time I got around to fixing the rust issues on the floor of the car, I found that the POR 15 came off easily and there was rust still spreading underneath. Judging by the poor workmanship everywhere else the guy touched the car I presume that he simply painted over the existing rust and the result was that the rust continued to spread, hidden under a thin shell of "rust encapsulator." In my opinion, these products are all about the marketing and much less about actual rust prevention. Anyway, I just thought I'd share my experience and opinion FWIW. I love the build!!!!

Looks fantastic! I bet you are excited after all this time to finally have it painted. It's nice to see an unmolested body - I never was a fan of fender flares on the S30.

Can't wait to see it painted! I'm just now reading thru your thread. Not sure how I missed it before. Keep up the great work and please keep sharing! I have dropped the ball on my build thread due to shear laziness.

Nice find! It reminds me that I need to rebuild mine. The wiper switch is a little flaky.

I'll take this rearview mirror, the one pictured with the light brown background. Is the ball joint tight?

Welcome, and congrats! Looks like a beaute! The first thing you'll want to do is download a copy of the factor service manual, EFI bible, and "How to Restore..." If you are not planning to modify it you might want to check out classiczcars.com. Good luck!

Awesome! Congrats!

I haven't seen a hybrid hybridz but there is a full electric 240z documented here.

All good advice here. Get a digital multimeter (DMM). There are tons of them on Amazon. Power probes are also very handy when diagnosing electrical issues.

^+1 It will be interesting to see how long it actually takes to get your tank. It took 4 months to get my 2 week lead time tank. The good news is that I finally got it. The bad news was that the filler neck was fwd of the correct location by about 2.5 inches. I had to have it patched and rewelded in the correct location. Cost me an additional $100. Anyway, I hope you fare better than me.

...and the drivers side vent air dam can be seen in the video you linked in your signature. Thanks for sharing!

My guess...the starter is dead. Does it even make a click or buzz from the starter when you turn the key? Have you tried jumping the battery straight to the solenoid? Were you getting 13 - 14v at the battery when it was running? Did you check the fusible links?

Nice work! Is that an optical sensor?

The CTE's of FR4 and glass fiber reinforced epoxy (fiberglass) are very close to the same and about 1/2 that of unfilled epoxy but about 2x that of steel. Love the build - impressive work!👍

+1

Isky is a good one that I've used. There are others. Read up on how to set up a reground cam. You'll need new, thicker lash pads to get the geometry correct.

If what you have is working well I would stick with it. To convert the P90A right, you'll need the solid posts, new rockers, and a good cam. I've had bad luck with Schneider cams. Regrind your stock cam if you want to go that route.

I purchased a 280z back in 2007 that had the AFM mounted in front of the radiator. It worked reasonably well. The setup was prone to knock @ only 5 psi of boost but I believe that was caused by the lack of an intercooler and the crappy old school turbo. I considered running water/meth injection until I figured out that I was going to be severely restricted by the stock fuel injection system. https://photos.app.goo.gl/jpC3ZFQfBXYC3DgT9

Wow, that looks great! Does it simply clip over the top and bottom of the lip and capture it? I also have the same flimsy urethane air dam.

+1 for bling factor too! Looks great! Awesome build - please keep the updates coming! 👍

Sounds like a great project. I will be watching!

Whatever you do, make sure you weld in trap door baffles to help prevent oil starvation. You do know that there are off the shelf high performance oil pans right?

It does look new, which leads me to suspect it's a CWC cam core. As far as I know there are only two cam cores - Nissan, denoted by "JAPAN" cast on the core, and aftermarket denoted by "CWC." But, I could be completely wrong. I do know that CWC cam cores are not hardened correctly and fail early in life By the way, the experts on these engines typically communicate on the Facebook Group "Church of the L Series." Go there if you want more opinions. Like any social media site, you have to filter thru those who think they are experts and those that are experts.

By the way, what core did your cam builder use? It doesn't look like a regrind.