rossman

I've always just pulled the engine and transmission together. Without the head, I'd use one of the top transmission bolts and find a bolt with the correct size and thread for one of the front head bolt holes.

I'm with Lazeum you might as well have it surfaced and checked out while its out of the car. It would really suck to put it back together only to have it blow the head gasket, burn coolant or burn copious quantities of oil.

Yah, your cam is oiled via the cam lobe holes. A spray bar wouldn't work on your setup anyway since don't have holes in your cam towers to feed the spray bar.

I have a 11/71 240z that came with the dealer installed AC. It appears that instead of cutting wires, they installed a small harness between the left hand fuse box connector which adds grounds and power to the various ac components. I'm installing a vintage air system that doesn't use any of those connections. I'm assuming that I can just pull the harness and connect the dash harness directly to the fuse box. It seems logical but can someone help me sleep at night verify that this is true? Thanks! Ross

If I were to do it again with similar goals, I'd go with p90a solid lifter head modified with #4, 5 and 6 coolant bypass, stock internals with flattop pistons, stock na cam, arp hardware, modern turbo like a gtx35r with a .87 ar.

It looks like gaps on either side of the valve at 35%. At 0% there is a gap on the right but none on the left. It looks defective to me.

Seam sealed both floor pan weld joints with 3M Urethane Seam Sealer. Used a trimmed acid brush to goop on the sticky, messy, stuff. Next up will be painting the pans with POR 15 black. I don't care too much about how it looks as this all will be covered with carpet.

Sounds like it's not fully closed when you think it's fully closed. How do you know it's fully closed? What are you using to drive it?

Awesome! Just keep at it when you have the time. For me, it's 10 hour days at work and family life that keep me away from my build, but I just keep at it whenever I can.

Regarding the tank, I will have to say, that besides the constant delays in delivery and the incorrectly placed filler neck, the tank appears to be built well. He told me his welder quit in the middle of the job. So, I cut him some slack. In the end I finally got my tank. It's no show piece (I didn't expect it to be) but all the welds look acceptable and he did install AN fittings as I requested. Although, one fitting looks like it was damaged and "repaired" on the sealing surface. In hindsight, should have just had him install NPT bungs. Anyway I'm going to pressure test it with AN caps soon...before I put fuel in it.

Nah, I never contacted him. I just didn't want to deal with him anymore. Cost me another $100 to get the filler fixed. C'est la vie!

I have been doing a little work on the Z here and there. I never was really happy with the sumped original fuel tank so I purchased a Zfever aluminum tank. After finally getting the tank after 4 months of "patiently" waiting it arrived only to find the filler neck positioned incorrectly. It was off by exactly one diameter. Due to the length of time it took to get the tank I didn't want to send it back to zfever. So I had a local boat shop cut the filler off and reweld it in the correct position. They ended up welding a plate over the existing hole and drilling a new hole in the correct location and welding the filler neck back on. Sorry, didn't get a picture of the repair. Here is one with the tank installed correctly with new straps. I also pulled the oil pan to attempt to fix an annoying leak at the back of the pan. Internals look in order, for whatever that's worth. I'm going to reinstall it without a gasket, just using Permatex Ultra Grey, studs and flange nuts along with the stock spreader plates.

Thanks for the info lowrider! I did end up printing the cover on a Markforged printer using their Onyx material which is chipped carbon fiber/nylon material. It turned out pretty nice. One day I'll get a picture.

Good read, thanks for that.

If you haven't been soaking it in penetrating oil, you need to. Welding on another bolt/nut is your best option. You're going to need one anyway if you're going to be modifying cars. Even a cheap Harbor Freight will work for this. I've read that they are pretty decent for the money. There are a few welder recommendation threads on HZ. Good luck!

Looks sharp! Some black CCWs that fill out those flares would look very nice on that car.

Don't think heat management is important? Check this, skip to 22:00

Welcome, that's a good looking car. I'd keep it that color. Is the rear hatch area rusted out or am I seeing things?

It's not really. All of those pitted areas of metal will be super thin once you grind them back to fresh metal for welding.