Leon

2 cm would be an absolutely HUGE opening in terms of valve lift.

I'm currently running a mix of Sealed Power and Nissan rockers in my motor and frankly I can't say that one is much better quality than the other. Time will tell I suppose. I don't have any experience with the ITM parts but I suspect they'll be fine given care is taken in setup and break-in.

I'm curious, do you have any examples of this?

It comes down to personal preference but I love lightweight flywheels. It's good bang for the buck and a must for a true sports car, IMO. I'm running a 10lb Fidanza on an L28 with triple 45s, late ZX 5-speed, 3.36 R180, and a 270/540 cam. The car is very easy to drive, even with the very long gears. Using an OEM clutch disk and pressure plate.

That is one of the most glorious things I've ever seen. The effort that went into this project is monumental. WELL DONE!

Thanks Tim! I'm curious, what valve spring compressor did you use and what tool did you use to remove/install the stem seals?

I don't see why you couldn't.

The Type 1 Xenon air dam angles away from the wheels. While I can't guarantee that you won't have issues, it's definitely got more clearance than the stock valence.

Yep! No worries, I'll take blown valve stem seals to a wiped cam any day of the week. The inside of the exhaust was coated in oil, I had to clean up my muffler when I got home as the tip and surrounding areas were also covered in oil. I still haven't popped the valve cover but I'm strongly suspecting catastrophic failure of the valve stem seals which then sucked oil out of the head, through the cylinders, and into the exhaust. I'm running the low-profile Ford seals that are recommended here for people running high-lift cams, maybe they dried out from sitting for 2.5 years? We'll find out more once I dig into this, I placed an order for new tools this morning. Got an in-car valve compressor, valve seal pliers, and a proper compression gauge. I'd like to check compression before diving into the motor. I'll update as I find out more! It was so nice to finally start enjoying the car, I really don't want to have it down for very long. I'm looking forward to dialing in the suspension and finally tuning the motor.

Changed the FPR a week back to a bypass-style and the car was running great! Drove it to SF, to work, and today drove it down to Scotts Valley for the Canepa Cars & Coffee event. C&C was fun, lots of cool machinery and a very eclectic mix of cars. Went with a buddy, I believe spitz17 on here. Took this photo at lunch, didn't even think to take one at the event... Didn't take a lot of pictures but this was one of my favorites: Took the long way around to get home, up CA 84 and into the mountains. I'd been doing so many valve adjustments and careful test drives that it was liberating to finally let it rip, holding revs at 5-6k with glorious noises coming from the sidedrafts. Got to the top and was making my way down when I saw a big plume of smoke in my rear view mirror. Fearing the worst, I grabbed my fire extinguisher and got ready to pull over. Checked vital signs: coolant, oil pressure, amps, all okay. The tranny tunnel was cool and the smoke seemed to be coming from the exhaust. I kept driving and performed some experiments. The biggest plume of smoke always came after decel. I haven't popped the valve cover yet but I'm fairly confident that the valve stems seals took a crap. My exhaust system was covered in oil after limping it home. This might also explain the slight smoke/oil burning I've been getting as well as the rev hang that I started to get today on the way to Canepa. I don't know if the seals dried out or failed catastrophically but we'll see when I remove the valve cover. I'd like to do a compression check as well since the radiator likes to spit out coolant. Hope to have this pin-pointed quickly! Anyone have a Rebello motor sitting around...?

As OP says, they were responding to "Wanted" ads. No need to be a donating member to reply to those nor to send a PM.

Compression and leakdown test. Take a good photo of your new plug and post it.

It's nothing to do with runner length, my dislike of the Cannon comes from poor design/craftsmanship. I can appreciate doing an apples-to-apples comparison though.

Is the new plug smashed in? The picture is blurry but it looks like you have a foreign object in #6.

I live 10 minutes from SFO in case you need to be picked up...

I highly recommend tossing the Cannon manifold in favor for almost anything else, especially if it has that giant balance tube running through it. A couple of easier to obtain "good" DCOE manifolds are the TWM and Harada, although there are many more available if you look around.

ARP instructions should say to install the studs "hand-tight only". The nut is what will control the preload on the head, you just need ample thread-engagement on the stud. No need to have them go in "all the way".

I would guess that was the on-board fire system pull.

David, sounds like you got your work cut-out for yourself! LOL, agreed!

You'll be fine. Doesn't look like valve damage occurred given the location of the pit. Do a quick visual on the valves and run it.

Very nicely done!

Stock valve springs max out at .460" lift. Call a cam grinder and give them your specs. Webcams, Isky, etc.

John was the man, I can't believe this. He symbolized what HybridZ is all about and will be beyond missed. I'm at a loss for words...

I guess we'll see how long they last...

Stock is stainless...