Leon

I had an amusing solution for a turbo Miata that had boost control issues, once I pulled the downpipe I noticed that the turbo-to-downpipe gasket completely blocked off the wastegate door! Your gasket doesn't block the door from opening, does it?

Are you sure your downpipe is allowing full range of motion of the wastegate door? Remove the wastegate actuator arm from the wastegate and try to move it by hand. If you're not sure how much it's supposed to move, remove the downpipe and perform the same check. I've seen this happen more than once...

The radiator is actually a 2 row! I never had an issue but I sold the car last year and the new owner installed an e-fan.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/101984-cooling-fan-for-edis-install/?p=1013878

I've used my in-law's 2000 V6 4Runner without a problem. No issues towing the Z 230mi from SLO to SF. They've towed camping trailers behind it many a time.

Nice work! Sounds like you did a great job of prepping it!

No reliefs, 270* duration. P90 shaved 2mm with 0.020" over flat-tops, no modifications to pistons. Torquey as hell. I checked valve-to-piston clearance and remember it being close but acceptable.

I run a .540" lift cam on stock flat-tops, FWIW...

I've seen them in a Z but don't remember whose it was. They're small but comfortable if you fit in them.

Nice Steve! I'm still at the rocker arm wipe check portion but working on it.

SWEET!

Fixed it for you. I'm making slow progress on the Z but as soon as it's back no the road, those brakes are going on!

Oh Fuuuuu...

Smaller venturis give a stronger vacuum signal. The mains will kick on sooner and thus help with throttle transition/hesitation issues. With the right jetting, you should be able to make bigger venturis (36-38mm) work just fine though.

Wow, that's some powerful reverse-engineering software right there! Keep up the fantastic work, Derek. It's very exciting to see a project of this magnitude come to fruition, especially in the detail that you're documenting it in. Very impressive!

It's on!

I have zero experience with Nistune so I can't really say anything about it. Not sure if the SAFC is compatible with your setup...

What do you mean by "usable"? The SAFC works but is very basic. With that said, it worked well enough for an E85 KA24-T 240SX I tuned. I'm not well versed in this, but isn't the Z31 ECU tunable (Nistune)? Looks like all you need is a daughterboard: http://www.xenonzcar.com/z31/nistune.html

Thanks Steve, I appreciate the motivation!

I've been dragging my feet! Once the car is back on the road, I will take it to my shop where I'm storing the Bilsteins, camber plates, and rear disk conversion. In order to get it back on the road, I need to do a final lash pad check, finalize carb linkage, and finish my fuel routing. Like I said, dragging my feet... At this rate, you'll have your Bilsteins in before mine!

In a perfect world, rockers and pads would have run me a little over $200. Since I had to redo everything after wiping the first cam, it's probably double that. Plus, when I bought the cam I also bought retainers and lash pads from Isky which I didn't end up using (due to lack of experience). The lash pads were too thick and the retainers didn't work for the thinner lash pads I ended up using. FWIW, Isky charges a very reasonable rate for having your cam reground. The comp wheel is NOS from the Nismo 10th Anniversary production run in '96. The "leather" is actually cleverly-molded urethane. It's in great shape and has held up well, the previous owner never used it. I decided to finally buy one because of how strong the dollar has been lately, making the conversion rate more favorable. It was under $600, shipped to my doorstep.

Holy cow, good catch. You got seriously lucky! I don't know how your valves didn't get bent, as your leak down numbers indicate that everything's okay.

Thanks Steve! Progress is good but slow as I haven't prioritized the Z recently. I did have an original cam reground. I spoke with Ron at Isky Cams about my setup and he recommended their L6 grind. Advertised specs are 0.540" lift at 270* duration (going off memory). It still idles pretty smoothly and has a really meaty torque curve.

:lmao:

Cam, at the very least check your plugs. I'd replace them if they're suspect as fouled plugs can cause a lot of heartache. The spark takes the path of least resistance. The more fuel-air mixture in the cylinder, the more resistance there is to the spark jumping and the more likely it is to short through carbon deposits. Wats are going to be sweet!